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Installing coil spacers - Advice Please...
Installing coil spacers - Advice Please...
Hi all,
I am going to be installing a set of 30mm coil spacers in my GU sometime this week. I am somewhat "mechanically disadvantaged", but I think it should be an easy enough job for me to do myself. I was hoping someone could give me some tips as to the best way to do this.
I was planning to disconnect the bottom of the shocks, jack up the chassis, so that it is high enough to insert the spacers, lower the jack and connect the shocks up....is this all there is to it?
A few questions:
Where is the best jacking point to lift the chassis, both front and rear? I will need to hire a large trolly jack...will this suffice? Any ideas where i can hire a trolly jack in Melbourne?
Any help appreciated.
TIA
Jonty
I am going to be installing a set of 30mm coil spacers in my GU sometime this week. I am somewhat "mechanically disadvantaged", but I think it should be an easy enough job for me to do myself. I was hoping someone could give me some tips as to the best way to do this.
I was planning to disconnect the bottom of the shocks, jack up the chassis, so that it is high enough to insert the spacers, lower the jack and connect the shocks up....is this all there is to it?
A few questions:
Where is the best jacking point to lift the chassis, both front and rear? I will need to hire a large trolly jack...will this suffice? Any ideas where i can hire a trolly jack in Melbourne?
Any help appreciated.
TIA
Jonty
GU III 4.8 Auto
Jack up the chassis as close to the springs as practically possible (make sure you have enough room to remove the spring though and that you are jacking off a section of the chassis that is parallel with the ground) otherwise you will be lifting more of the car than you need and it may become unstable.
Disconnect the sway bars or else you wont be able to get enough droop from the diffs
Use chassis stands before you get under the car
You may need to place you bottle jack on top of the diff below the chassis to jack the two apart if the diff still hasn't drooped enough to get the coil out
A trolley jack may not go high enough for your needs. In the past i have used a high lift jack and the placed chassis stands underneath then released the high lift. (lets see how many posts saying that is a terrible method are posted )
Rob
Disconnect the sway bars or else you wont be able to get enough droop from the diffs
Use chassis stands before you get under the car
You may need to place you bottle jack on top of the diff below the chassis to jack the two apart if the diff still hasn't drooped enough to get the coil out
A trolley jack may not go high enough for your needs. In the past i have used a high lift jack and the placed chassis stands underneath then released the high lift. (lets see how many posts saying that is a terrible method are posted )
Rob
Road Ranger
buy some chassis stands and a jack from supercheap.JontyG wrote:Thanks Rob,
I don't have chassis stands, guess i could hire that as well?!
I was even contemplating the idea of getting someone with a forklift to help out...maybe this would be easier...hmmm
Cheers,
Jonty
dissconect the sway bar and helps to loosen the panhard as well
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
You could be right, but so far i haven't found anywhere that will do it for that price. I was quoted around $150 mark...anyone know of a cheaper place in melb??dirtyGQ wrote:After hiring all this stuff it would probably be cheaper to have them fitted about $55
If i do end up doing it myself, seems it may be easier to remove the wheels, and drop the car onto a set of jack stands, which will negate the necessity to hire a trolly jack, or chassis stands.
Yep, thanks...i will definitely get one of these...if i end up doing it myselfmuzza_fattire wrote:Using spring compressers will help aswell
GU III 4.8 Auto
I understand where you're coming from. $150 is not a great deal of money, but I prefer the satisfaction of doing these things myself. I have done bodylifts, and similar jobs on my past 4by's, and find that it's always a good learning exercise. I didn't want to go into this blind, and value the opinion of many posters on this forum, hence my original post.GASDRX wrote:Sorry but you have a GU III 4.8 and you dont want to spend $150. You have no tools and you will probably put yourself in danger.
Spend the money
Down the track I plan to install a 5" lift, and thought this could be a good time to get to know the nuts and bolts of the suspension setup on my GU.
GU III 4.8 Auto
i did the springs on my GQ.holy crap.the hi-lift jack was wedged under the front and back corners,one corner at a time.didnt care if i damaged them ill toss em any way.disconnected shocks sways etc.the high lift couldnt get enough height without becoming to unsteady.i ended up removing the wheel on the particular corner laid it under car(cheap insurance if it falls)and had a trolley jack to lower diff too ground as i jacked body up to a safe point.spring compessors are a pain in the ass but if u have a bit of time it would be safer.unlike me do it in a nice open space so you have plenty of room to run if things get hairy,i had 2ft of room beside the patrol before i hit plaster.good thing it didnt fall on me.the missus would be pissed if i dented the wall.
Buy stands at least six inches higher than the truck sits normally(minimum, cuase you will prob. lift higher shortly 8P ), buy spring compressors (you will not regret it) My procedure with 6" springs, jack front or back up and place stands under the chassis as close to the end of the middle flat chassis section as (safely) possible, release the bottom shockers and bottom panhard mounting points and those wierd things i think they call sway bars??? (providing the wheel is not of the ground yet), place 2t trolley jack under the centre of the diff (front is tricky) jack up till the weight on the stands looks light (but still safe), then remove your gnarly mudders, then position spring compressors so as to be able to turn the shaft with a socket, then tighten em up some, than SLOWLY let the trolley jack down till you have enough room to slip the springs out or your standard brake lines or breather hoses reach their limit, in which case you will have to jack it up again and tighten springs some more(I found it easier this way, thats all).
ps: spring compessors are shit easy when used correctly???
ps: spring compessors are shit easy when used correctly???
GQ TOURER
Thankful to be able to use the tracks that are left....SHEET where are they........
Thankful to be able to use the tracks that are left....SHEET where are they........
Read this http://www.nohsc.gov.au/PDF/Statistics/report_jacks.pdf and you'll never crawl under anything again without 10 stands supporting.
Duct tape is like the Force,
it has a light side, a dark side
and holds the universe together.
it has a light side, a dark side
and holds the universe together.
I understand the necessity for stands...i never siad that i would not use stands, just that i never had any. I have decided that i will remove the wheels, and lower the car onto jack stands, which - in conjunction with coil compressors - will make it easier to jack up the chassis and remove the springs, so that i can fit the spacers.MQPatrol wrote:Read this http://www.nohsc.gov.au/PDF/Statistics/report_jacks.pdf and you'll never crawl under anything again without 10 stands supporting.
Cheers,
Jonty
GU III 4.8 Auto
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