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body lift
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Boxer,
Don't know what body your mate has but I did my 2" on a dual cab Rodeo body. Found the best thing a couple of lengths of 90 x 90 or thearabouts radiata pine, cheap from BBC, and 3 trolly jacks.
Run the timber down the length of the body to distribute the load with a trolly jack either side, and one up front on the nose of the body, and prefereably 2 people, 3 are even better ( two to jack eaither side and theguy at the front to do the nose and be a spotter around the steeing, brake lines, clutch line and electical loom.
I took the load on the boddy, removed the body mounting nuts but left the bolts in as a guide and very slowley jacked.
Also the guy from climax suspension suggested that I also put between the body and the blocks a layer of 6mm rubber (the stuff with the tread reinforcing in the middle) Clark rubber has the stuf as a stock item.
Oh.. also, if he has a tub tray, do this first as a practice and make sure the straps that go between the cab and tray are removed first if you have them!!
Re the steering, I had enough length on my spline to let it creep up without mod. If yours has bolts on the flange, loosen them first.
Remove the radiator cowling first and as the motor drops in relation to the radiator, check the distance between the fan and the lower radiator hose. If it his you will have to drop the radiator.
Other than that mine went sweet.
Good luck
Cheers
Rainsey
Don't know what body your mate has but I did my 2" on a dual cab Rodeo body. Found the best thing a couple of lengths of 90 x 90 or thearabouts radiata pine, cheap from BBC, and 3 trolly jacks.
Run the timber down the length of the body to distribute the load with a trolly jack either side, and one up front on the nose of the body, and prefereably 2 people, 3 are even better ( two to jack eaither side and theguy at the front to do the nose and be a spotter around the steeing, brake lines, clutch line and electical loom.
I took the load on the boddy, removed the body mounting nuts but left the bolts in as a guide and very slowley jacked.
Also the guy from climax suspension suggested that I also put between the body and the blocks a layer of 6mm rubber (the stuff with the tread reinforcing in the middle) Clark rubber has the stuf as a stock item.
Oh.. also, if he has a tub tray, do this first as a practice and make sure the straps that go between the cab and tray are removed first if you have them!!
Re the steering, I had enough length on my spline to let it creep up without mod. If yours has bolts on the flange, loosen them first.
Remove the radiator cowling first and as the motor drops in relation to the radiator, check the distance between the fan and the lower radiator hose. If it his you will have to drop the radiator.
Other than that mine went sweet.
Good luck
Cheers
Rainsey

hey buddy i used to have a 1986 4runner 2.4 diesel and i did a 2" bodylift on it and it was easy, all i did was remove seats and carpet and undo body bolts and i used my jack on a few big blocks of wood to lift the body up i had a peice of soft wood btween the jack and the sill off the car and you shouldnt need a steering shaft extensioner just loosen the slip joint so it can move in the spline and u should be right if u need pics i can email u some
GQ LWB TD42, boost, lockers etc
http://forum.mudrhino.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=262&start=30
http://forum.mudrhino.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=262&start=30
Body lifting in 10 easy steps.
Step 1. Spay lots of CRC or simmilar penatrating lube on all bolts a day before doing the BL.
Step 2. Remove nuts from body bolts along one side and loosen the nuts on the other side. Unbolt radiator shroud. Loosen steering shaft bolts at splined section.
Step 3. Double check that nothing else is going to be bind when lifting (Fuel filler hose, wiring, etc). Peel back carpet around body mount points.
Step 4. Get 2 nice big chuncks of timber and make a T out of them. Put on trolly jack under sill panel of side with nuts removed and jack SLOWLY. Check for any probs as you go.
Step 5. Fit blocks and loger bolts on that side tighten just loosely.
Step 6. repeat on other side.
Step 7. Tighten all bolts to recomended torque.
Step 8. Re-atach radiator shroud (either lowered to match fan or simply without the bottom section
) check and tighten steering shaft and tighten anything that was loosened before hand.
Step 9. Grab a beer and admire your handy work
Step 10. Repeat step nine
Step 1. Spay lots of CRC or simmilar penatrating lube on all bolts a day before doing the BL.
Step 2. Remove nuts from body bolts along one side and loosen the nuts on the other side. Unbolt radiator shroud. Loosen steering shaft bolts at splined section.
Step 3. Double check that nothing else is going to be bind when lifting (Fuel filler hose, wiring, etc). Peel back carpet around body mount points.
Step 4. Get 2 nice big chuncks of timber and make a T out of them. Put on trolly jack under sill panel of side with nuts removed and jack SLOWLY. Check for any probs as you go.
Step 5. Fit blocks and loger bolts on that side tighten just loosely.
Step 6. repeat on other side.
Step 7. Tighten all bolts to recomended torque.
Step 8. Re-atach radiator shroud (either lowered to match fan or simply without the bottom section

Step 9. Grab a beer and admire your handy work
Step 10. Repeat step nine

R.I.P Brock Fontanini 28-3-06 - 16-2-08
www.teamcarnage.net
www.teamcarnage.net
Resident Terrorist
4 runner should be identical or very similar to Hilux Surf.
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/bodylift.htm
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/bodylift.htm
does any one have a page like this but for the sierraRAY185 wrote:4 runner should be identical or very similar to Hilux Surf.
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/bodylift.htm
would it be easier with a sierra...?
just grab 2 blokes, they hold up the car whilst you fit everything



is this in the bible in the Yota section... ??? good workausyota wrote:Body lifting in 10 easy steps.
Step 1. Spay lots of CRC or simmilar penatrating lube on all bolts a day before doing the BL.
Step 2. Remove nuts from body bolts along one side and loosen the nuts on the other side. Unbolt radiator shroud. Loosen steering shaft bolts at splined section.
Step 3. Double check that nothing else is going to be bind when lifting (Fuel filler hose, wiring, etc). Peel back carpet around body mount points.
Step 4. Get 2 nice big chuncks of timber and make a T out of them. Put on trolly jack under sill panel of side with nuts removed and jack SLOWLY. Check for any probs as you go.
Step 5. Fit blocks and loger bolts on that side tighten just loosely.
Step 6. repeat on other side.
Step 7. Tighten all bolts to recomended torque.
Step 8. Re-atach radiator shroud (either lowered to match fan or simply without the bottom section) check and tighten steering shaft and tighten anything that was loosened before hand.
Step 9. Grab a beer and admire your handy work
Step 10. Repeat step nine
Forgot to add a couple of things.
Shifters - check for interference in any gears including low and high range. Sometimes a little snip needs to be given to either the boot or the steel.
Bumpers/bullbars/sidesteps will need to be lifted to match the body lift or it will look shithouse.
If you just have the standard bumper its just a case of getting some plate and usingthe bumper mounts as a template mark two holes in the plate and another two down the height of the bodylift.
If you have a ARB style bullbar you will need to do a bit more serious cutting and shutting. Still not that hard, just chop off all the bracketry and bolt in on to vehicle. Using jacks or engine crane etc position the bar into place and make some cardboard templates to fill the gaps. Transfer onto steel and weld in place.
With a bodylift there is also other stuff you can do to get even more advantages offroad.
Fuel tank lift
Drivetrain lift
Exhaust system lift
And a great place for BL info is here
http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
Paul.
Shifters - check for interference in any gears including low and high range. Sometimes a little snip needs to be given to either the boot or the steel.
Bumpers/bullbars/sidesteps will need to be lifted to match the body lift or it will look shithouse.
If you just have the standard bumper its just a case of getting some plate and usingthe bumper mounts as a template mark two holes in the plate and another two down the height of the bodylift.
If you have a ARB style bullbar you will need to do a bit more serious cutting and shutting. Still not that hard, just chop off all the bracketry and bolt in on to vehicle. Using jacks or engine crane etc position the bar into place and make some cardboard templates to fill the gaps. Transfer onto steel and weld in place.
With a bodylift there is also other stuff you can do to get even more advantages offroad.
Fuel tank lift
Drivetrain lift
Exhaust system lift
And a great place for BL info is here
http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
Paul.
R.I.P Brock Fontanini 28-3-06 - 16-2-08
www.teamcarnage.net
www.teamcarnage.net
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