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Getting rid of "orange peel" paint...
Getting rid of "orange peel" paint...
Hey guys
Just did some touch-ups on a mates vitara bonnet, theres a dulled orange peel kind of effect making the transition between the touched up areas on the front and the original paint in the centre and back of the bonnet. I know orange peel is generally the paint drying before it hits the metal, but i was spraying CLOSE, any closer and i'd get runs.
Its had 2 coats of clearcoat which helped smooth it out a bit, buts its still REALLLY obvious where our touch up meets the old glossy bonnet, even though the colour is spot on.
Im kind of thinking a cut-n-polish will smooth it some more, but anyone else got any ideas other than doing the whole bonnet? =) Its only a bodge job afterall as its being sold in a few weeks.
Just did some touch-ups on a mates vitara bonnet, theres a dulled orange peel kind of effect making the transition between the touched up areas on the front and the original paint in the centre and back of the bonnet. I know orange peel is generally the paint drying before it hits the metal, but i was spraying CLOSE, any closer and i'd get runs.
Its had 2 coats of clearcoat which helped smooth it out a bit, buts its still REALLLY obvious where our touch up meets the old glossy bonnet, even though the colour is spot on.
Im kind of thinking a cut-n-polish will smooth it some more, but anyone else got any ideas other than doing the whole bonnet? =) Its only a bodge job afterall as its being sold in a few weeks.
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sanded back the house paint to metal, primered and sprayed (can job from supercheap) colour is metallic charcoal 38B...
The primer was smooooth as, the paint went on quite course, but as i added layers it smoothed out a bit, then the gloss smoothed it further, just not enough =)
The primer was smooooth as, the paint went on quite course, but as i added layers it smoothed out a bit, then the gloss smoothed it further, just not enough =)
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Same colour as my other zook.
Try a buff first and then work from there i guess. U can try the 1200 as been mentioned. i am doing this to mine soon.
What colour undercoat did u use? They recomend using the blackout for doing under metallic paints, it is a flat black, mines made k&h.
cheers
Try a buff first and then work from there i guess. U can try the 1200 as been mentioned. i am doing this to mine soon.
What colour undercoat did u use? They recomend using the blackout for doing under metallic paints, it is a flat black, mines made k&h.
cheers
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
the rattle can i used, the book suggested the gray undercoat, so i used gray =) amazingly though the colour is SPOT ON the orig, which is on an 89 model... crazy!
Perhaps black would be good if trying to match it brand new...
Oh, and wont a 1200 dull the thing and make it matt???
Perhaps black would be good if trying to match it brand new...
Oh, and wont a 1200 dull the thing and make it matt???
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so sand it back with 1200, clear coat and buff?
or just sand it back and buff it? i dont reckon 2 layers of clear coat will handle sanding =)
Im going to try a cut-n-polish at lunch tomorrow and see what happens.. if it still looks homosexual ill try sanding ont he weekend... (if i can be bothered)
or just sand it back and buff it? i dont reckon 2 layers of clear coat will handle sanding =)
Im going to try a cut-n-polish at lunch tomorrow and see what happens.. if it still looks homosexual ill try sanding ont he weekend... (if i can be bothered)
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