i was reading the other thread about castor and how to fix it. at present i got 5.7 degrees of pasitive castor which it too much with my current set up. so i returned it back to normal and got another castor reading and it said neg 4 degrees.
my question is what are my options to get +2-3 degrees of castor. what castor plates am i looking for. If i dont want to go the drop box route, then what are my options. i know about 3rds arms but their too expencive for what they are will the castor plates work for my situation.
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castor correction for gq
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Castor Plates will work... But you won't have exactly 3.0-2.5+ castor. You may have too much or not enough or it may be spot on but it will be better than negative. 
It may be so close as to be negligible like mine is... Castor plates are fine.. 5.5 for 4... 7 degree for the higher lifts...
The only way to get exact factory specs (-obviously without going drop boxes/3rdsarms-) (2.5-3 degrees) get you knuckles chopped and rotated. Glenn Binskins did this with his shorty and I know cheezy suggested it to me when I was asking the same question a few years back... But then again your arms are still at the limit of droop...
I don't know who could do it in Newy
It may be so close as to be negligible like mine is... Castor plates are fine.. 5.5 for 4... 7 degree for the higher lifts...The only way to get exact factory specs (-obviously without going drop boxes/3rdsarms-) (2.5-3 degrees) get you knuckles chopped and rotated. Glenn Binskins did this with his shorty and I know cheezy suggested it to me when I was asking the same question a few years back... But then again your arms are still at the limit of droop...
I don't know who could do it in Newy
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I would be aiming for around .5 to 1.5 degree positive caster. You would be able to achieve the caster you need with offset caster bushes.
Caster plates require you to notch the cast trailing arm to keep your current steering lock to lock, if you have the heavy duty tie rod, and can be a pain to fit of you have to drill the plates on the diff to fit the bolts.
Drop boxes will give you too much caster correction, you do lose clearance, and can be difficult (and $$$) to engineer for approval.
It's not so much degree of caster you need, it's the amount of 'trailing' distance you need - from the projected pivot point of the kingpins (caster direction) to the contact patch of the tyre. A 35 inch tyre increases the distance from the centre of the hub to the road/tyre contact patch, therefore increasing the trailing distance with more suspension liift, hence the need for less degrees of caster correction. 2 degrees is set from the factory, but this is calibrated for smaller tyres - 31's or 7.50 x16's, people make the mistake by trying to maintain the caster amount (in degrees) or even increasing it
then wonder why they have caster slap...
Caster plates require you to notch the cast trailing arm to keep your current steering lock to lock, if you have the heavy duty tie rod, and can be a pain to fit of you have to drill the plates on the diff to fit the bolts.
Drop boxes will give you too much caster correction, you do lose clearance, and can be difficult (and $$$) to engineer for approval.
It's not so much degree of caster you need, it's the amount of 'trailing' distance you need - from the projected pivot point of the kingpins (caster direction) to the contact patch of the tyre. A 35 inch tyre increases the distance from the centre of the hub to the road/tyre contact patch, therefore increasing the trailing distance with more suspension liift, hence the need for less degrees of caster correction. 2 degrees is set from the factory, but this is calibrated for smaller tyres - 31's or 7.50 x16's, people make the mistake by trying to maintain the caster amount (in degrees) or even increasing it
then wonder why they have caster slap...Built, not bought.
how positive are you in the castor angles is supposed to be at 1. i was told 3 degrees is a good spot to be at. wizard does sell 5 and 7 degrees castor plates. ill try the 7 degree ones first as he already ordered them for me, then if it still stuffed then will put the 5 degree ones on and it will give me 1 degree postive castor. if you posted up earlier icould have ordered the right ones. oh well
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Rock solid on the caster requirement. Setting up the front end will always be a compromise - increase the caster: increase the shimmy and tyre wear, but vehicle tracks well on the highway. Decrease the caster: vehicle may wander a little more on the highway, but the shimmy will be eliminated. Larger tyres require less caster in degrees to achieve the correct amount of trailing distance.
Like I said, your tie rod will hit the bottom of the radius arm at full lock with higher degree caster plates. Your shimmy will not go away, in fact it will make it worse with more caster.
Like I said, your tie rod will hit the bottom of the radius arm at full lock with higher degree caster plates. Your shimmy will not go away, in fact it will make it worse with more caster.
Built, not bought.
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