Timing Belt on 1.3

[oldzook]

hey all, a sleeper here but desperate for help.
i have scanned the tech and i have searched but to no avail

Just doing the timing belt on my 1300 (and of course i have no book for this car) and am a little concerned about the correct timing of the cam wheel.
a/ It has a nick in it which I assumed should line up with the nick at the top of the rear section of the timing cover.
b/ Instead this currently points down toward crank on TDC and #1 firing.
which way is correct

If a/ is correct do I simply rephase the cam 180deg and swap HT leads to suit??

BTW it is all still intact ATM, I felt it prudent to stop and check this out.
Incidently the harmonic balancer when lined up with '0' on timing case does not correspond with timing marks on the flywheel, it is twisted by about 2deg. Is this common/normal/acceptable suzuki behavior?
(regardless, I am inclined to use the flywheel marks for top dead on the crank or check piston)

hope somebody can help me with this

cheers
Dan

[christover1]

I just changed my water pump, which means removing the timing belt.
I've always used the mark on the cam wheel pointing down, towards the crank wheel, which has the cam/locator pointing up.
They should point directly at each other, and to a mark on the timing cover about half way between them.
Saying all that, I have often removed them, without lining up, so long as you dont move crank or cam...risky.

Always turn over by hand at least two full revs, and see if marks still line up...

If its working right, I say leave things as they are.

It should be on tdc firing on #1 with cam pulleys mark down and cranks up..

christover

[zooki]

give the crank another full rotation and it will line up the top mark, be sure you dont ahve 2 ways the cam gear can go back on either, refit the wrong way and its bad

just make your own marks with liquid paper, easy then

[oldzook]

thanks to both of you. i no sooner posted and the forum seemed to crash so i went back out, had a puff and engaged my brain.
arrived at the same conclusion to simply crank again untill at top mark as it really doesn't matter which pot is firing, as long as i had a reference point of what it was when i dismantled and then fine tune a tooth either way till closest possible to marks. it's half a tooth out so i advanced it.
also have done water pump while my hands are dirty and now fitting it out with a thermo fan to see what sort of ponies that will eek out of it.

cheers fellas

Dan