does any one no how much a rebuild kit would cost for an lt 95. mines jumpin outa gear, leaking, bad oil colour, has bad vibration, clunky, lots of back lash farked handbrake, ect ect.
are these a complex box to rebuild and is there ane thing to look out for
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rebuilding a lt 95
Moderator: Micka
Re: rebuilding a lt 95
Holy crapRangie ute on 38'' wrote:does any one no how much a rebuild kit would cost for an lt 95. mines jumpin outa gear, leaking, bad oil colour, has bad vibration, clunky, lots of back lash farked handbrake, ect ect.
are these a complex box to rebuild and is there ane thing to look out for
Are they the signs that a rebuild is needed
Both my 79 & 80 have these symptoms.
I thought it was standard
Harry
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
Bloody heavy to remove/reinstall. Once out, there is nothing difficult about them. I dont think there is any problems getting bearings or seals, but some other parts are hard to get new now.
As I recall, AndrewE had an LT95 that was jumping out of gear and he fixed that by increasing the spring pressure on the detent balls for the shift rails. Pull the top cover, (which houses the gear lever) and you will see the small coil springs - I guess if the springs look ok, you could stretch them a little to increase the pressure on the detent balls.
With the top cover removed, you will be able to have a good look at the condition of the gears etc.
One thing that can cause a lot of noise is the finger that engages the high/low shift fork. The tip of this finger has a plastic sleeve that breaks up and falls off after many klm's. It then rattles in the shift fork. To fix, just force a short piece of oil resistant plastic tubing over the tip of the finger.
Your clunky, lots of backlash and handbrake descriptions sound normal to me.
As I recall, AndrewE had an LT95 that was jumping out of gear and he fixed that by increasing the spring pressure on the detent balls for the shift rails. Pull the top cover, (which houses the gear lever) and you will see the small coil springs - I guess if the springs look ok, you could stretch them a little to increase the pressure on the detent balls.
With the top cover removed, you will be able to have a good look at the condition of the gears etc.
One thing that can cause a lot of noise is the finger that engages the high/low shift fork. The tip of this finger has a plastic sleeve that breaks up and falls off after many klm's. It then rattles in the shift fork. To fix, just force a short piece of oil resistant plastic tubing over the tip of the finger.
Your clunky, lots of backlash and handbrake descriptions sound normal to me.
John
aw well to late cause the big bastards out now sitting on the bench with the transfer part out. what a massive box, lucky the poms come up with an alloy casing to keep it as light as possible, most boxes ive changed (cruisers, ford, and honda) i can pick up sorta. but this one had to be put on pieces of 4x2 timbre and scull draged across the yard behind the defender 
It was built for the 101 Gun Tractor,and designed to have a PTO to run a driven trailer for ammo. Land Rover only had money for one gearbox design so also stuffed it in the Range Rover, arguably spoiling the refinement of an otherwise quiet and smooth vehicle.
The 95 refers to the MM between the shafts.
You will have trouble breaking one. I have seen one live behind a 400 chev for 10 years towing a horse float, many years ago.
regards Philip A
The 95 refers to the MM between the shafts.
You will have trouble breaking one. I have seen one live behind a 400 chev for 10 years towing a horse float, many years ago.
regards Philip A
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