petronix ignition

Post by **mudmav** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 12:46 pm

hey guys i had a petronix electroic igntion fitted on saturday morning. I can say nothing but goog things about it, the car idles smoother, starts easier, revs more freely and i reckon i picked up a little power. Had it fitted down at ontrack automotive and they were great to really professional yet very friendly. Anyone have the petronix who has also upgraded their coil to. Does it make a lot of difference becasue i am running the stock coil

Post by **blkmav** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 12:55 pm

I had one fitted by Phil too and it's great. Haven't upgraded my coil but I do have an extended rotor button.

Post by **mudmav** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 1:51 pm

WERE DID YOU GET THE ROTOR BUTTON AND HOW MUCH DIFFERENCE DID IT MAKE AND HOW HARD WAS IT TO INSTALL

Post by **RoldIT** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 2:46 pm

Quite yelling and take a breath ... :!:

(ie CapsLock off and punctuation is good!)

Post by **mudmav** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:17 pm

if i hurt your feelings then im sorry black mav
as for you roldit it shut the f$*k up and if you dont have any nice input then i dont want to hear it ill type however i want

Post by **scorched** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:59 pm

haha andrews holmes is a hypocrite.

Im also interested in this extended rotor mod. Is it where you bend it up a bit??? Soz if it been asked before but couldnt see it in bible.

cheers

Post by **Beastmavster** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 5:38 pm

mudmav wrote:hey guys i had a petronix electroic igntion fitted on saturday morning. I can say nothing but goog things about it, the car idles smoother, starts easier, revs more freely and i reckon i picked up a little power. Had it fitted down at ontrack automotive and they were great to really professional yet very friendly. Anyone have the petronix who has also upgraded their coil to. Does it make a lot of difference becasue i am running the stock coil

Bive us an update on fuel ecopnomy too.

and $$$

Post by **blkmav** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 6:42 pm

http://www.performanceignition.com.au/

$45 fitted but that was a while ago

Post by **JeSTeROCK** » Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:26 pm

Done both, extended rotor button and from performance ignition and petronix points replacement ignitor.

Idle is very smooth

Rev's right out, not that i try to rev it more than 3K

Post by **mudmav** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 10:34 am

was $275 fitted and timming adjusted and also did my mixtures to
i have just gone through a full tank of fuel and economy looks like it will be about 3-5% better. i am getting extended rotor button and better coil + k&n filter on saturday so hopefully that will be better again

Post by **hottiemonster** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:18 pm

i rang performance ignition the other day and there prices are now $35 changeover or $55 outright for an extended rotar button.

i was dodge so mine has a bit of weld on the end of it

Post by **hottiemonster** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:20 pm

JeSTeROCK wrote:Rev's right out, not that i try to rev it more than 3K

i have been told that if you remove the springs on the top of the rotar, it will REV RIGHT OUT :armsup:

Post by **blkmav** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 4:42 pm

hottiemonster wrote:
JeSTeROCK wrote:Rev's right out, not that i try to rev it more than 3K

i have been told that if you remove the springs on the top of the rotar, it will REV RIGHT OUT

Since getting my head fixed and fitting the front locker, I don't need to rev past 3000 on tracks.

Post by **stevelb1** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 5:19 pm

I hope you guys relise that with the electronic ignition mod, you dont need the extended rotor as they are only good for saving on burning out the points. Which lead to another question why are the points burning out in the first place.

Reducing the gap with the extended rotor also reduces the amount of voltage drawn from the coil which inturn reduce the effective spark at the plug, hence less spark poor feul burn higher running costs all for the sake of changing a set of $6.00 points.

I also have bought the extended rotor but have not fitted it in the diizy as yet and maybe wont do it at all as Id rather have a good strong clean spark that is using the coil to its full protenial and burning 80% of the fuel than a weak spark that the new rotor will produce and burning only 65% of the fuel.

But please dont take my word for it ring the Performance Ignition that supplies these niffty little gizmos and ask them to explain the ins and out of the rotor and why they extended it.

Post by **MyGQ** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 5:30 pm

Haven't done the rotor extention in mine but have put in a Elect ign system (crane) and i haven't had to touch timing, or even look at the dizzy in nearly a year, runs clean, when i hit the 30,000 mark, new plugs go in even if its still runing good, rather have clean stuff in there than crap stuff

Post by **BowTieGQ** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 9:19 am

Performance Ig. say that between 5 and 10 thousand volts are lost trying to jump the factory gap. Makes sense to me. Open up your plug gaps to 5+mm and see if that works. I know it's different but it's still current trying to jump a gap. They had my Flamethrower II coil and a Bosch coil on test bench and opened the gap up on test plug. You can see it for yourself.

Post by **mudmav** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 9:43 am

i dont mean to sound ignorant but i dont really understand what you mean are you saying extended rotor button is good or bad
the thing that makes me wonder is that sandy bowman runs elec ignt in hirevn and he also runs and extended rotor button apart from that and a rebuilt carby, extractors and exhaust, and his truck is a real flyer. HE suggested that i get the rotor button

Post by **blkmav** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 9:47 am

mudmav wrote:i dont mean to sound ignorant but i dont really understand what you mean are you saying extended rotor button is good or bad
the thing that makes me wonder is that sandy bowman runs elec ignt in hirevn and he also runs and extended rotor button apart from that and a rebuilt carby, extractors and exhaust, and his truck is a real flyer. HE suggested that i get the rotor button

Good, I'd take the advice of Performance Ignition over an 'Internet Mechanic' anyday

Post by **mudmav** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 12:24 pm

i just phoned performance ignition their advice was that an extended rotor button would improve not only economy and fuel burn, but also free up a few more revs in the top end, the only thing that they did say was that their was no need to replace the standard coil if you did the rotor button and elec ignition.

Post by **blkmav** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 2:23 pm

That must be why I have an elec ignit and extended rotor button fitted and haven't done anything to the coil

Post by **BowTieGQ** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 4:18 pm

Correct. It's only a coil. But mines' 45000 volt compared to factory 25-30000. A Bosch GT40RT would have sufficed though and been cheaper. Just thought I'd give it a shot. Cant hurt.

Post by **Nigel** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 6:35 pm

Hi to the group

I fitted my 89gq patrol ( dual fuel ) with a Jaycar high energy ingition which is really a dwell extender and provodes a more consistant voltage to the coil and the extended rotor buton and picked about another 50 km per tank of gas.I dont think it had much more power hard to tell with 33 and 6 inch lift.
It ran a lot smother and this was with points whick were fine after 30km.The Jaycar kit takes a lot of the current out of the points.

Eliminating the points is the best option as it is one less thing to ware out.

My two cents worth.

Regards
Nigel

Post by **stevelb1** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:30 pm

Good, I'd take the advice of Performance Ignition over an 'Internet Mechanic' anyday[/quote]

Its not a matter of being an internet mechanic as you have stated.

If you know and understand how your electrical system works and what the individual components do you wouldn't be making such brash statements as that, like I said Ive to have one of the extended rotors, I purchased it from Performance Ignition after talking to them, but I also did a little bit more homework on the issue and I wont be fitting the extended rotor to my dizzy.

My previous comments where my opinion only, nut it seems that if you differ from the majority you are open for insult, thats a great way to treat forum members with a common interest.

Post by **marin** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 10:26 pm

stevelb1,

Without sounding like i'm having a go at you, in all seriousness, I would be interested to see the results that you get if you actually did install the extended rotor button for a few months, get some figures to back up your theory that reducing the rotor gap does not increase performance/mileage, simply due to your theory being opposite to the majority of people, including many of those in the business.

Prove us all wrong.

marin (with the pertronix, extended rotor button from performance ign. service and the bosch GT40RT coil)

Post by **mudmav** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 8:18 am

i think he may be getting confused with the rotor gap and the spark plug gap performance igniton told me that i should open my spark plug gap up by 0.005 to get best spark and fuel burn they also said openning up the tappets a bit does these motors the world of good

Post by **stevelb1** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 2:36 pm

mudmav wrote:i think he may be getting confused with the rotor gap and the spark plug gap performance igniton told me that i should open my spark plug gap up by 0.005 to get best spark and fuel burn they also said openning up the tappets a bit does these motors the world of good

No there is no confussion over the rotor gap or the plug gap.

Do you really think that opening your plug gap by 1/2 a thou is going to make a difference that you'll notice, try measuring 1/2 a thou.

Its a proven fact that an increased gap between rotor and dizzy pickups will increase the spark voltage and make the coil work to its full potential which will inturn make the plugs burn a higher percentage of raw fuel closing the rotor distance will not do it, with electronic ignition the gap distance is not an issue as there no no points to worry about.

Ask Performance Ignition why the points burn out in the first place (because of the higher Volts produced by the coil).

This is not crap Im talking off the top of my head, companys with something to sell will alway window dress there produce to sell it as the best thing since sliced bread, do some research for youself like I have.

Post by **mudmav** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 2:43 pm

i spoke to sandy about it he said the theory is correct but in practice gqs with elc ignit and extended rotor button run better and get better economy he hasnt stuffed me around before so i have no reason to doubt him now ill try it and if it is crap ill change back give me a week or 2 and ill let you no how it goes

Post by **stevelb1** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 4:19 pm

mudmav wrote:i spoke to sandy about it he said the theory is correct but in practice gqs with elc ignit and extended rotor button run better and get better economy he hasnt stuffed me around before so i have no reason to doubt him now ill try it and if it is crap ill change back give me a week or 2 and ill let you no how it goes

Dont get me wrong I'm not against anyone having ago at something its all trial and era, but what does get me going is when someone has a differing opinion to the norm they get shot down in flames, the old addage " if 10,000 people jump off a bridge, does it mean there right".

Ive only giving a different presective to the thread and thats all, hey I'm all for getting better fuel economy out of these thirsty beasts.

Post by **mudmav** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 4:29 pm

and for that i have the utmost respect for you ill let you no how i go

Post by **BowTieGQ** » Fri Dec 23, 2005 1:47 pm

My first epoxy Flamethrower II coil shit itself so it went back under warranty. Fitted the oil filled one. First day same problem. Took the Ignitor II out today and will try something else. Not spending more money chasing probs with it.

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