35" + tires rubbin... or +10.5" tires rubbin...

[harvey]

this thread [and my question] is aimed at two audiences - those who run above 35" tires and those who run tires that are wider than 10.5" and who find that their tires rub/scrub...

... is it the width in your opinion or the height [overall diameter] of the tire that's the main contributor to your rubbing/scrubbing?

I would like to put on 9x16 Michellin XZL's on my Patrol. They might be only 9" wide but they're 36.5" tall. The other option is the 8.25x16 Michellin XZL that are more narrow but still 35" tall. So i'm wondering if i'll get away with the height if my tires are more narrow.

if it helps the suspension body that will accompany this is 3" suspension + 1" Body

thanks in advance for your thoughts/experiences.

[marin]

what sorta patrol?

marin

[turps]

If talking GU/GQ. Tall tyres will rub on the inside of teh rear wheel arch. Mine old GQ did this with 31x12.5R15, 285x75R16, 35X12.5R15 and Q78.
Only fix for this is to limit up travel.

And wide tyres seem to rub on the shock/coil tower on the front. This may have been a slight bend in the Axle but I dont think so.
I guess on fix for this is wider offset rims or wheel spacers. But this increases the sweep angles of the wheel. Which can have other issues.

[CRUSHU]

I hope this helps.......

My GQ LWB has 2" springs, 1" coil spacers (effectivley 3" springs) and a 2" bodylift. My front shock mounts have been spaced up 1" to help with up and down travel.

I run 35 x 12.5 all terrains, on alloys, and 36 x 12.5 TSL's on 75 series landcruiser offset steel wheels.

I have removed the standard flares and mudflaps, and have flexi flares.

My rears rub when on full compression on one side, and extension on the other (eg hill on one side, hole on the other) on the inner part of the wheelarch. It has been no problem, there is nothing sharp in there, it is all smooth.
My fronts rubbed on the guard where the mudflap was, at compression and at full lock. I carefully cut this away with a air hacksaw, less than where the mudflap covered, so it can be reversed without anyone noticing.
Now they don't rub.

[HellfisH]

I run 35x12.5 Mickey Thompson Radial Claws and all I had to do to stop the rubbing was,

first was a 2" body lift


next was a front guard cut (about 20mm cut off and 20mm heated and rolled under)


and after that I had the rear quarter cut



and also it helps to shorten the rear seat belt bolt and knock the inside guard lip in with a hammer

[harvey]

My vehicle is a LWB GQ Patrol.

Crushu & Hellfish any chance you could please post side on photos of your respective vehicles? I'm going to take a print out of this thread and show it to my body man so that when it goes in at beginning of March he'll have an idea of what to achieve.

Also Crushu... all of your tires appear to be at least 3 inches wider than what i am proposing.... do you think you'd still have the same rubbing issues with narrow tires [assuming the overall diameter of your tire was the same]?

A few other questions as well... 1 - the 75 series steel wheel, is using this an alternative to using wheel spacers and if it's not possible to get a 75 series wheel where i am could i use an 80 series steel wheel or [3rdly] if i could only get spacers what width would you recommend?

2 - Turps where you suggested that to limit rubbing a potential answer is to limit upward travel... is this as simple as fitting bigger bump stops?

3 - Hellfish - where you've suggested shortening the rear seatbelt bolt and hammering the inner guard lip... i'm guessing there's no harm in removing the bolt completely if i'm getting rid of the very back rear seats? Or is this bolt for the middle row seats? Also with the guard lip, my passenger side guard lip is rusted. So my body man said he'd remove it completely and put in a new guard. What is this guard protecting exactly and if a possible solution is to hammer it away from the wheel, is there any point in your opinion, replacing a new steel bit of the guard once we've had the rusty bit removed?

Sorry for the many questions but it want to get my vehicle right without complications first time for what i'm planning to use it for.

Thanks.

[turps]

2 - Turps where you suggested that to limit rubbing a potential answer is to limit upward travel... is this as simple as fitting bigger bump stops?

Sorry for the many questions but it want to get my vehicle right without complications first time for what i'm planning to use it for.

Thanks.

Dont be worried about questions. There has been some good answer that I hadnt thought off and I have been reading crap on here for ages.

With the up travel on the rear you can space the bump stop down or lift it up. I cant remember which way is easier. As I never got around to doing it. But I also have heard of people putting 80series bump stops in, but I think this may have been for the front.
Even running Q78, which I think are about equal to a 36X9.5R15. They rubbed on the inside edge of the wheel arch. Just above where the seatbelt bolt is on a SWB GQ (guess 3rd row seat, seatbelt bolts are the same).
they also rubbed on the lip that Hellfish talked about belt in with a hammer. BRT was cranky they rubbed there as there his tyres and it sliced the side wall a little.

If your tyre rubs on the rear of the front guards (where mudflap is). You can buy spacers for the radius arms which pushes the axle forwrds by approx 12mm. This leaves just enough thread to get the nut on. There about $30 from decent 4wd shops. I got mine from ONTRACK in east Kielor (VIC).

[CRUSHU]

If your tyre rubs on the rear of the front guards (where mudflap is). You can buy spacers for the radius arms which pushes the axle forwrds by approx 12mm. This leaves just enough thread to get the nut on. There about $30 from decent 4wd shops. I got mine from ONTRACK in east Kielor (VIC).

It was suggested to me when I enquired about Arm Spacers, that in a very hard compression (say landing very hard off a rise) that there can be misalignment of the bump and the pad, and they can miss each other. Which can be bad.

[HellfisH]

i'm guessing there's no harm in removing the bolt completely if i'm getting rid of the very back rear seats

If your removing the seat belts then just replace the bolt with a shorter one just to fill the hole

my passenger side guard lip is rusted. So my body man said he'd remove it completely and put in a new guard. What is this guard protecting exactly and if a possible solution is to hammer it away from the wheel, is there any point in your opinion, replacing a new steel bit of the guard once we've had the rusty bit removed

The guard lip is were the floor and the wheel arch meet and from what I can see it's not protecting anything, so if you can cut the rust away with out leaving a hole to the inside of the car then it should be fine.

[Mkdude]

i run 35x12.5 on my MK, with 2" spring, 2"inch body, 2" shackle, and hilux offset rims never even goes close to scrubbing