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constent floor knocking ~need help~

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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constent floor knocking ~need help~

Post by YankeeDave »

Car: 89 GQ patrol 4" lift (old springs) 2" body lift

previous condition: a few small knocks noticed in floor when the underside of car was wet, i assue body mount rubbers

Incident: bashing around in labertouche hard one day, noticed a large knock in front end, and the front end continued to make some horrible knocking and clucking noises up front.

Investigation: all radius arm bushes finally shagged. (ones at front and oens that mount to chassis).
So replaced all those bushes

Current condition: new bushes fixed te4h cluncking, yet a lot of knocking still exist. the knocking comes when ever I turn the steerign wheel or go over a bump. seems to be getting slightly worse.

Options: I'm going to replace the bolts that go through the body lift blocks with ti tensile unbreako cap screws and new nylocks. Will this help or should i be lookign at something else????


Extra info: castor bushes were taking out and standard bushes put in while i build drop boxes.

Help me stop this knocking it's driving me mad!
Jeep Wrangler TJ

Jeep Cherokee XJ
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Post by bundyrum4x4 »

weld the floor pan/fire wall seam

very common
89 Maverick LWB ute, Turbo Deisel, 6hp High Mount, 36" Peeds, lockers etc

GU 4.5, 35's etc
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Post by bogged »

bundyrum4x4 wrote:weld the floor pan/fire wall seam

very common
yup, lift up the carpet, you will see the crack, if its bad you will see it from under the car.
Posts: 655
Joined: Fri Nov 22, 2002 8:00 am
Location: Cranbourne, Victoria

Post by bundyrum4x4 »

bogged wrote:
bundyrum4x4 wrote:weld the floor pan/fire wall seam

very common
yup, lift up the carpet, you will see the crack, if its bad you will see it from under the car.
Not always, its covered in seam sealer
89 Maverick LWB ute, Turbo Deisel, 6hp High Mount, 36" Peeds, lockers etc

GU 4.5, 35's etc
Posts: 45681
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 10:13 am

Post by bogged »

bundyrum4x4 wrote:
bogged wrote:
bundyrum4x4 wrote:weld the floor pan/fire wall seam

very common
yup, lift up the carpet, you will see the crack, if its bad you will see it from under the car.
Not always, its covered in seam sealer
mine you can :( Yet to be fixed
Posts: 655
Joined: Fri Nov 22, 2002 8:00 am
Location: Cranbourne, Victoria

Post by bundyrum4x4 »

bogged wrote:
bundyrum4x4 wrote:
bogged wrote:
bundyrum4x4 wrote:weld the floor pan/fire wall seam

very common
yup, lift up the carpet, you will see the crack, if its bad you will see it from under the car.
Not always, its covered in seam sealer
mine you can :( Yet to be fixed
Leave it to long and you will never get rid of the knock, the floor stretches and can be a real pita to fix.

I would prob do 1 a month with this prob
89 Maverick LWB ute, Turbo Deisel, 6hp High Mount, 36" Peeds, lockers etc

GU 4.5, 35's etc
Posts: 45681
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 10:13 am

Post by bogged »

bundyrum4x4 wrote:Leave it to long and you will never get rid of the knock, the floor stretches and can be a real pita to fix.

I would prob do 1 a month with this prob
how much?
Posts: 655
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Location: Cranbourne, Victoria

Post by bundyrum4x4 »

bogged wrote:
bundyrum4x4 wrote:Leave it to long and you will never get rid of the knock, the floor stretches and can be a real pita to fix.

I would prob do 1 a month with this prob
how much?
Depends on how bad it is.

Between $100 & $200
Requires lifting of carpet, removal of seam sealer :bad-words: , welding, sealing, painting and re-fit carpet.
89 Maverick LWB ute, Turbo Deisel, 6hp High Mount, 36" Peeds, lockers etc

GU 4.5, 35's etc
Posts: 45681
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 10:13 am

Post by bogged »

bundyrum4x4 wrote:
bogged wrote:
bundyrum4x4 wrote:Leave it to long and you will never get rid of the knock, the floor stretches and can be a real pita to fix.

I would prob do 1 a month with this prob
how much?
Depends on how bad it is.

Between $100 & $200
Requires lifting of carpet, removal of seam sealer :bad-words: , welding, sealing, painting and re-fit carpet.
going to replace carpet soon might try that Knox carpet place... might sus it all out in one go, also seat mount broken on drivers rear on tunnel
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Post by HeathGQ »

hijack but on topic - my floor has lots of little rust spots and holes, mainly along the outer edges. Was thinking a full interior strip, clean out, and seal with fibreglass and bitumen seal under. My concern with the fibreglass was flexibility, would it be a concern in smallareas, or is theere a better solution - P.S. I cant weld....... perhaps I should learn, oohh one day when I can fit it in.....
Heath & Melissa - 93 GQ LWB.
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Post by bundyrum4x4 »

I personaly would weld in some new floor. The GQ floor pan is not the strongest.
89 Maverick LWB ute, Turbo Deisel, 6hp High Mount, 36" Peeds, lockers etc

GU 4.5, 35's etc
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Post by matthewK »

decent grinder, mig welder 1mm to 1.6 sheet of steel ,

cut out the floor clean it up cut new sheet to just bigger then the cut hole tack it in place look at it if like mig it up run rust profing over it paint it :)

it what i'll be doing shortly to my roof the guttering and driver side is crap i just got to find some time, new bottle of argon for the mig, and some steel i supose :)
1995 land rover disco on 265 muddies
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Post by ozy1 »

i had this problem a few weeks ago, heavy knock under driver floor, and a light nock under passenger floor,

i went around and replaced all body mount rubbers,
went and had a crack welded under drivers side carpet, floor and firewall,
then it was still there, so at thisa moment, im replacing all front radiius arm bushes, diff and chassis end, and also replacing boltrs and nuts at diff end,

will see hoe it goes,

EDIT Hasnt fixed it,

but maybe someone can add some ideas, i noticed if i bounce my truck, the diff doesnt move freely, it sort of clunks up and down whwn the suspension unloads, it may be other people prob as well, anyone have ideas???????????
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Post by DieselBoy »

Spring isolator pads or shock bushes(you could try tightening the nuts up on the pins if the bushes look good, they may haVe compressed over time)
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Post by YankeeDave »

found some major cracks in the floor pan and around the body mount.

so i'll try fixing them first
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Jeep Cherokee XJ
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Post by GQ Toy »

Something we found on a nissan that had done lots of rough miles was the panhard bolt to the chassis mount had worked loose and flogged the mount out, drove the driver nuts till it was found.
Had a similar issue myself with the rear mount for the front arm on the diff drivers side worked loose and would clunk as well.
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Location: NZ

Post by DieselBoy »

Would it clunk as you got to full lock as everything loaded up, and then some times when cornering hard over a bumb, or under certain conditions of the road??

I though perhaps one of my swivle hub bearings was shot, but that could perhapes be the cause.

Hmmm.
AJS
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Post by AJS »

Mine had the same noise. Check the tightness of the bolts holding the transmission cross member to the chassis. Mine were about a half turn loose and were the cause of the problem.
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Post by gqswb »

I was told to grind down a few mm of metal tube that runs thru the rubber body mounts if they were worn.
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Post by BigMav »

seems like this is a very common problem, mine does the same and have tried a couple of things mentioned with no luck. I can't see any cracks anywhere but I have a feeling it might be the bodymounts. Pretty expensive guess though, I'd like to be certain.
1989 Ford Maverick Turbo Diesel Tourer
4" spring lift 2" body lift
33" MT/R's
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Post by ozy1 »

BigMav wrote:seems like this is a very common problem, mine does the same and have tried a couple of things mentioned with no luck. I can't see any cracks anywhere but I have a feeling it might be the bodymounts. Pretty expensive guess though, I'd like to be certain.

i have done exactly that, i replaced all body mounts, which didnt fix it, i then replaced all front radius arm bhushes and hasnt fixed it, now im gettin lost,

EDIT:::: just found 6 month old front shocks are shot, they seem to have a dead spot in them, will look into replacements on friday
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