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My Trailing Arms

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

Moderator: Micka

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My Trailing Arms

Post by GURU »

G'day all,

I have designed and made trailing arms to fit RR's disco and Defenders. they are a bolt in arm so no modification is need. I haven't ramped the car yet, but when I get the chance I will, I should get alot more travel with these arms

These ones are for my D90 project.

Top one is my Trailing Arm, the bottom on is a OE item
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
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Post by HSV Rangie »

Nice work.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
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Post by Dozoor »

Good stuff das, is this made from different tube or did you thread the orig and bend ?
Larry.
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Post by GURU »

G'day,

They are completly new, the tube is a 34mm OD and 20mm ID so it has 7mm walls (The metal is tried and tested as some companies use it on their suspension mods) . I then bent it to the correct curve I wanted. For the top section I machine down some solid metal rod and then drilled the centre of the tube out to 22mm and fitted the end piece in and welded it. It's in about 100mm (so the first seticon is solid).

I then tapped the bottom end and fitted the Hemi/Rose joint to it with a lock nut.

So these aren't going to break or bend anytime soon
[i]DAS[/i]
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Post by landy_man »

so are they for sale :D
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Post by GURU »

G'day

Yes they are for sale
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
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Post by landy_man »

and................ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :D
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Post by GURU »

G'day all,

The price will be coming soon, but here are some pic's of them on my project 90
[i]DAS[/i]
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Posts: 683
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2003 3:42 am
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Post by GURU »

and another
[i]DAS[/i]
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Post by Bodge »

Can I ask - why the rose joints?

With the front end of the arm the way it is you don't lose much articulation due to bush binding at the rear end of the arm anyway.

I am tempted but I won't be able to sneak the rose joint past the warrant officer - if it was just the bend it may go un-noticed...
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

DAS - your arm in the first pic looks slightly shorter than the std arm - is that the case? and if so was it intentional?

I have heard from reliable sources that the load leveller (if fitted) is the first restriction to travel, and the a-frame is about as restrictive as the bush bind/trailing arm angle. Any plans for a replacement A-frame?
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Post by Wendle »

with those particular heims you are using, make sure the bronze linings are pressed in nice and tight, then give them a few little love taps with a centre punch around the joint between the bronze and the casing on both sides. It helps heaps to stop them loosening up and getting sloppy.
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Post by GURU »

G'day

ISUZUROVER - The arm is the same length as the stanard one, in the pic the hemi/rose joint is screwed right in (It can be unscrewed to give about 1" more length, I had to unscrew it 2 turns to fit in my 90 (standard length).

Yes the Self leveler is, and I have this removed already (infact I never even had one). The biggest problem with the A-frame is people put a 2" lift on their rangie and don't drop the A-frame at all (I'm not sure it it's possible to lower it 2" but maybe 1") so this straight away causes the A frame to max out 2" shorter than it normally would. As for a replacement A frame, it's on the cards, I intend on making a whole suspension package, including springs, arms, A-frame. Then I will be working on a front suspension setup

Bodge - I haven't been able to flex my truck on a ramp yet with them on, but from what i have seen out of other setups available the bush does limit the travel in the end.

When the suspension drops down, the wheel not only arc's towards the front of the vehicle it also arc's towards the opposite side (if we are talking about the drivers wheel dropping it is heading to towards the passanger side), due to the A-frame design) now because The arm is designed to allow it to drop alot further than normal, The chassis bush will only allow so much twisting, so the hemi/rose joint will allow it to go further.

As I said I haven't really been able to flex it, I hope to be able to do this within the next 2 weeks.

As for not getting past the warrant officer, I can make the arms without the hemi/rose joint and just use normal bushes, the arms are all custom, so even the bend can be made greater or smaller.


[/b]
[i]DAS[/i]
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Post by HSV Rangie »

Das,
how are you getting around the fact that most road traffic authorities wont allow yoou to use rose joints.

Vic roads just wont have a bar of them. (I tried for mine)

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Posts: 683
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2003 3:42 am
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Post by GURU »

G'day

whats the reason Vic roads said no ? was it a plain no, or was there a specific reason?

I'm starting to investigate this...Also looking at the other joints available.
[i]DAS[/i]
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Post by Maggot4x4 »

Hey Das, I had very similar arms on my GQ, I strongly reccomend you gusset them, mine ended up looking like a u-turn sign and I was using the same tube. The problem comes when reversing. When the went they took the pinion with them and it was at the bottom of Porters. Try that in just front wheel drive with no locker!!!!!
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
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Post by GURU »

G'day,

Well this metal has been tried and tested bent by OVERKILL engineering, their Land Cruiser 5 link setups have a bend in the arms and they haven't bent out of shape, Sam use to run bent trailing arms on his Old Suzuki and they never bent any further than what he bent them to, and thats with no strengtherning, so I don't see a problem with mine.
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
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