I'm 16 years old and working on an 83 rangie. Its a carb 3.5 V8 so it will probably not be as hard as if i had ECU. I want to keep the electrical system very simple using only the essentials... lights, guages etc. I am going to use a Painless universal wiring harness and their toggle switches for headlights, turning signals, wipers, guages and other accessories/auxilary components. I am not very experienced with wiring so I'm not sure what else I'll need to do. Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Need advice on complete rewiring
Moderator: Micka
Mate. Good luck is all I can say. 
I recently fully rewired my 77 Rangie. I pulled all the old stuff out and started from scratch. I am an electrician, that does not help much with auto wiring but it does help with reading electrical diagrams.
Make sure you can read the electrical diagram in the manual
Make sure you label everything as you pull wires out.
Suggest using relays for the headlights & highbeams rather than direct wiring as they were done at the factory.
I recently fully rewired my 77 Rangie. I pulled all the old stuff out and started from scratch. I am an electrician, that does not help much with auto wiring but it does help with reading electrical diagrams.
Make sure you can read the electrical diagram in the manual
Make sure you label everything as you pull wires out.
Suggest using relays for the headlights & highbeams rather than direct wiring as they were done at the factory.
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
like walker said label everything 
get a few different colours of tape so similar things can be colour matched and make sure you mark the bits of the loom that arnt going to be used so you know you can delete them on your new one.
I'm doin this to an old datsun 1600 atm, but also going EFI at the same time. steep learnin curve
get a few different colours of tape so similar things can be colour matched and make sure you mark the bits of the loom that arnt going to be used so you know you can delete them on your new one.I'm doin this to an old datsun 1600 atm, but also going EFI at the same time. steep learnin curve
I rewired my IIA completely, and made my own harness. But given that a IIA comes from the factory with 2 fuses, just about anything is an improvement. I seriously overengineered all the cable diameters (or doubled-up on cables) so I have practically no voltage drop anywhere.
Put a bank of relays in the engine bay for headlights, horn, etc etc. Rover didn't use anywhere near enough relays (or often fuses). My 110 had (from the factory) 4 fuses (and 4 circuits) for the headlights, but no relays.
Most of the stock switches are not too bad, once running through relays. The wiper switch switches the negative, not the positive - a generic toggle switch will not allow your wipers to have a park function.
Buy a proper crimping tool from an automotive electrical supplier (not the crap ones that most places sell). And solder all critical joints as well as crimping the connector on. Buy lots of heatshring before you start.
Also, don't do what I did and leave out the voltage regulator when wiring up the temp and fuel gauges (then wonder later why they always read too high!).
Put a bank of relays in the engine bay for headlights, horn, etc etc. Rover didn't use anywhere near enough relays (or often fuses). My 110 had (from the factory) 4 fuses (and 4 circuits) for the headlights, but no relays.
Most of the stock switches are not too bad, once running through relays. The wiper switch switches the negative, not the positive - a generic toggle switch will not allow your wipers to have a park function.
Buy a proper crimping tool from an automotive electrical supplier (not the crap ones that most places sell). And solder all critical joints as well as crimping the connector on. Buy lots of heatshring before you start.
Also, don't do what I did and leave out the voltage regulator when wiring up the temp and fuel gauges (then wonder later why they always read too high!).
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
but I put all the fuses and relays inside the car.
Yep, you are right about better using different colors, but for the main power stuff it was going to be too difficult and expensive to buy small rolls of 20A wire.cloughy wrote:Probably not a good idea using all one colour though, makes fault finding harder, its good to use another loom to hack up and have as many diff. colours as possible. although if using painless that shouldn't be a drama
For all the sensors & low amp stuff I bought 7 core trailer wire which gave me 7 different colors and I have re-labeled my wiring diagram accordingly. Not the best solution but it should help if there is ever a problem.
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
How long did it take you all up walker? Pretty neat!walker wrote:Mate. Good luck is all I can say.
I recently fully rewired my 77 Rangie. I pulled all the old stuff out and started from scratch. I am an electrician, that does not help much with auto wiring but it does help with reading electrical diagrams.
Make sure you can read the electrical diagram in the manual
Make sure you label everything as you pull wires out.
Suggest using relays for the headlights & highbeams rather than direct wiring as they were done at the factory.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests