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bruiser wrote:How can I rotate the rear dif back so its pinion sits flat.
I'm pretty sure u can get adjustabe top arms for the rear diff..
I know u can get them for a GQ - GU
Cut 10mm ou of them, 3/4 bolts fit inside, and reweld together...angle of the dangle is restored, or putthem on a press and bend them toll they are 10mm shorter.
Andrew
Yes fixed problem.
Fixed by installing a double cardan joint in the front drive shaft.
The sound is backlash in the centre diff. This was not happening because my drivline or centre diff was loose. (my driveline is tight as)
It is caused by the fact that your front uni operates at a different angle to the back after a lift. The front has little or no angle and the rear a large angle.
A uni operating at an angle slows down and speeds up twice per revolution. A uni operationg at no angle runs at a constant speed.
SO.... in the case I had they were both trying to operate at different speeds therefore producing the backlash, or flicking of the shaft back and forth in coast.
(the D/C is to make the shaft spin at a constant seed. It has nothing to do with making it operate at a larger angle. A normall uni will actually operate at a larger angle than a d/c.)
1. There are those that will say get adjustable arms and rotate the diff. Well I don't believe this is the answer as I have had my castor check and it is less that 1 degree out. So this option will not work.
2. There are others that say put a part time kit in.
Well I love mine being fulltime FWD. I love being able to drive on gravel roads at high speed with awesome traction, pulling the boat up the ramp without spinning the wheels and most of all driving on and off the beach without getting out of the car.
Second, by going partime you still have not fixed the problem, it is just that you will probebly not notice it.
Hi
ARB told you crap then...they said in your original post taking the front shaft out reduced but did not get rid of the noise.
You know, if you didnt put the plates on, it probably wouldnt have vibrated....it would have drove like crap, but because there was 5 degrese less angle in the front uni....the noise would have been deminished like a 2 inch lift with caster correction has.
Its when you put the springs and plates on that the transfer angle changes drematically. and the diff angle becomes minimal...that you need the double cardon.
I went a dx transfer, my mate went the d/c....both work well.
Glad to hear it is sorted.
Andrew
bruiser wrote:ARB have know Idea when it comes to lifts above 2inch. Well my local one doesn't.
Do not ever go to ARB for anything over 2", they have absolutely no idea/product/support for this kind of mod. They only do commercial stuff (fridges/lockers/straps/blablabla)
Dow50r is correct, ARB doesn't know anything they're full of men with big ego's who think they know everything there is in the 4wd community and how to fix cars ! They also believe that bodylifts cannot be approved by QLD Transport
Also they also aren't too good with their own products either, i've seen too many dodgy installations
1998 Toyota Landcruiser 100 series GXL
1976 FJ45 Landcruiser ute
bruiser wrote:ARB have know Idea when it comes to lifts above 2inch. Well my local one doesn't.
Andrew
What did the dx tranfer case and associated bits cost you?
Hi
The dx transfer cost me $700 with a box aswell. It is a tad shorter than a constant, but in behind my auto, a manual tailshaft fits well.
I sold the box and constant and recouped the money.
Veem took a week to get the DC fitted and shaft all balanced... last Friday they supplied it back to me... got home and tried to fit it up... the DC flange holes were not the same as the flange on my gearbox.
NOT HAPPY JAN... had a 4wd trip with my local club that I _HAD_ to run that weekend... did it all in 2wd tho!
Anyways, take it back to them on Monday (just gone) they apologised about 100 times. They wanted to re-drill some holes into my gearbox flange but as I went to unbolt it... there was no way of getting it off unless you took the gearbox to bits or something? No bolt!
So they took the drive shaft in and pulled the DC to bits then tigged the holes and re-drilled it... so wasn't happy.. Their excuse was that there was 3 types of DC's and they are different on serveral 80 series cruisers... meh! don't think so charlie!
So just got it back today (friday 3/3/06) and fitted it up at work.... drove home and NO WEIRD NOISES! wahooooooooooooooooooo..... what a headache!!!!
top rear arm s must do to change dif angle right
need to do front tail shaft not cardinal joint
must do lower control arms or they wil bind up on stearing arms
bruiser wrote:ARB have know Idea when it comes to lifts above 2inch. Well my local one doesn't.
Do not ever go to ARB for anything over 2", they have absolutely no idea/product/support for this kind of mod. They only do commercial stuff (fridges/lockers/straps/blablabla)
Ulises
the reason they don't go over a 2'' lift is to avoid unwanted noieses or unwanted vibration's
there lift is a 2'' above standard hieght that gives 90% of customers full satisfaction and no unwanted probs , there catoring to the major market
of 4wdriver's
they don't wish to deal with the probs a 5'' lift is giving cause they would have to deal with so many come backs /unsatisfied customer's
after having a customer spend a amount on a suspension who would want to spend more on trying to fix the faults that they have caused buy fitting such a huge lift
as the guy of this thread would probably feel sweet ive paid x amount on this supension sweet no more to do but he has just found out he has to fork out more money to rectify it, wich wasn't in his plan at all
plus there trying to sell a product they sticks within the adr rules and every other rule that they have to comply to
