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Engineering.

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Engineering.

Post by mooks100 »

So my car is being lifted with a spoa and a body lift. I'd like some opinions on weather or not it is worth getting it engineered given all this fuss about the changing laws etc. Oh, and I do know and engineer who would approve it.
Cheers
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Post by bazooked »

spoa and body lift??????? why???? , and good luck.
buggy time............
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Post by mooks100 »

spoa for the lift and body lift for the 1.6. Why is besides the point. Thanks for answering the question.
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Post by "CANADA" »

mooks100 wrote:spoa for the lift and body lift for the 1.6. Why is besides the point. Thanks for answering the question.

bonnet scoop for the 1.6....or raised hood...
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Post by redzook »

MADZUKI wrote:
mooks100 wrote:spoa for the lift and body lift for the 1.6. Why is besides the point. Thanks for answering the question.

bonnet scoop for the 1.6....or raised hood...
his not asking about his lift

if i was you id get it engineered as there are alot of rigs already enginnered with a certain amount of mods so i dont think there gunna just say there all illegal now

but if you dont have it enginnered if and when the new laws come thru id say u will be illegal and cant ever get it legal

if u get what i am trying to say :lol:
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Post by mooks100 »

Thanks Redzook. Finally someone who can actually read and answer a simple question. Seems like there are quite a few people on this site who jump on every opportunity to bag other peoples rigs. Must make them feel better about themselves or something. Pathetic. I know my car is tall. Each to their own and I certainly don't need everyone elses approval. Anyway, thanks for the response Redzook and good point.
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Post by droopypete »

Get it enginered if you can, and include the tyres as well.
Were abouts are you?
Peter.
PS, you don't need a body lift to run a 1.6.
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Post by mooks100 »

Hey Pete. Yeah I know you don't need a body lift for the 1.6, but I did my research and that was the option I liked best. I never said a body lift was the only way. Oh, and I'm in Vic too.
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Post by zookdave »

If you could get it engineered why wouldnt you do it. it would be a legal beast, i agree that you should not bodylift it. If its already got the SPOA its going to be quite topheavy so why make it more??? lift the bonnet/scooop anything to aavoid it being worse onroad.
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Post by mooks100 »

Ok ok ok. I get the fact that people don't like the body lift, and I'm sure you all think they are the worst thing ever in the entire history of the freakin world. I like it and it's done now so can we please move on. I was asking for opinions on weather or not to get it engineered because of the prospect of the new laws possible being retrospective (from what I've read on OL). I don't really want to know what people think of my car. I like it. I've just had it professionally built for much $$$ and am a bit touchy about people bagging it.
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Post by Vineboy »

I agree there is too much shit bagging getting around. So what if someone wants to do something to their rig. Thats their choice. There is a difference between constructive criticism which most people appreciate and having a dig. It's just un-Australian!
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Post by droopypete »

mooks100 wrote:Hey Pete. Yeah I know you don't need a body lift for the 1.6, but I did my research and that was the option I liked best. I never said a body lift was the only way. Oh, and I'm in Vic too.
What size tyre do you want to get engineered?
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

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Post by mooks100 »

Pete. It's only possible for me to get 31's engineered. I will be running 33's though.
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Post by droopypete »

who said 33's can't be enginered?
Peter.
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Post by mooks100 »

My engineer said 31's max. Why? Do you know someone who will do 33's?
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Post by grimbo »

The thing with engineering, especially nowadays, is that engineers like to be informed of the proposed changes before you do them so that it can all be done properly from the start. Retrospectively engineering stuff is more fiddly and harder. Not saying it can't be done, but it sometimes turns into more of a headache.

But yes, if you can get it engineered then do it, save yourself any hassles down the road
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Post by mooks100 »

I'm not talking about retrospective engineering, I'm talking about retrospective modification laws.
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Post by grimbo »

mooks100 wrote:I'm not talking about retrospective engineering, I'm talking about retrospective modification laws.
yeah I know, but you said you were doing these mods and were thinking about engineering it. I then said it's a better idea to talk to your engineer before you do anything to make sure it is legal and is done properly from the start. Not to do it all and then go to an engineer and hope what you've done is legal.
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Post by alien »

i agree with grimbo.. everything done on mine has had a phonecall or a faxed diagram involved, and photos taken while working on it so the engineer can see exactly how everything was done before paint went on (paint hides welds very well!).

Call whoever is in charge of licensing vehicles over there and ask them to send you their list of engineers... then just start making phonecalls to see who will do it =) here in wa, its DPI: www.dpi.wa.gov.au - pretty sure the list is on their site too.

As for SPOA + Bodylift or without or whatever i totally agree about each to their own... lifting the vehicle is just as opinionated as choice of tyres etc etc... do it your way, and have fun - cos thats what its about!
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Post by droopypete »

mooks100 wrote:My engineer said 31's max. Why? Do you know someone who will do 33's?
My sierra is enginered with 33's, and while he will do another one for me, he has knocked some mates of mine back.
Peter
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Post by zookdave »

Maybe its just the setup you have pete? BTW what setup are you running to get those 33s fitting.
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Post by mooks100 »

Thanks guys for you input. I guess I just wanted to know if it would be a waste of time paying for the engineering report when these laws could come in and make my report worthless. The car was professionally built with an engineers knowledge from the getgo. Just want to know if it's worth paying the extra for the certificate.
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Just like your choice of set up, ultimately only you can decide whether it is worth the cost of a cert to have a legal car or to drive around and always wonder if you are going to get pinged.

However, if you are paying, or have paid to get the car built by a workshop then I cannot see the point in not getting the cert. To (potentially) drive out of the workshop and get pinged immediately (could theoretically happen) woudl just waste every dollar you have spent, not to mention the heartache of having to try and retrospectively engineer a car with a canary on the windscreen.

Those of us that build our own junk and have access to lots of parts and tools might say don't worry about it, drive it and if you get pinged, pull it apart and rebuild it into another shell (or something) but I would never advocate that if you had the car built.

I do not believe that engineering rules will be applied retrospectively, just as ADR's are not applied retrospectively.

However, in VIC, you will usually get pinged for no mudflaps, tyre coverage, tyre size, or some other (relatively) minor offence. Often, the police will not only issue a notice to fix (which is not a canary), but also tick the box for roadworthy on the notice to fix. This is when you get into a world of hurt for a non engineered car - you will have 7 days to present the car a vicroads with a roady and the issue fixed. No one in the hisotry of the world has ever got a retrospective engineers in 7 days :) IMHO if you have no cert, you will want to make sure that the tyres are always covered, always speed rated, you always have mudflaps, the plates are clean, all the lights work, the washer bottle is full and all the other stuff that never happens.

PS IMHO you should have spoken to the eng. before the job started. Engineers HATE being presented with an already built car, even if similar cars have been certed before.

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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Post by droopypete »

mooks100 wrote: I just wanted to know if it would be a waste of time paying for the engineering report when these laws could come in and make my report worthless. The car was professionally built with an engineers knowledge from the getgo. Just want to know if it's worth paying the extra for the certificate.
Pay the money, get the cert and drive away a happy man :armsup:
if not you will be looking over your shoulder all the time, I don't know your car, if it is a piece of crap with a 1.6 and a spring over, and you don't mind turning it into an unregistered buggy after you get a canary go for it, but if it is better than that and the cert is as easy as you say now is the best time.
As I said preiviously I have mine enginered, and now after a few years it wouldn't pass in a pink fit, now is the time while every thing is new and tight.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

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Post by Gwagensteve »

mooks100 wrote: The car was professionally built with an engineers knowledge from the getgo. Just want to know if it's worth paying the extra for the certificate.
Just re read this, and please dont think I am having a go...

Did you peronally speak to the engineer about the build before hand and during the build or did your car happen to be in the workshop while the engineer was around? If the engineer was involved in the build he has already invested time and effort in the build. He may have photographed it, or asked the worshop building the car to do something a particular way etc, discussed plans in relation to heaps of things before they have started etc. Hw will already have a folder of information on the car. This is what you are paying for if you get a cert - it is the involvement in the process. This is why engineers hate retrospective approval.

If this has happened and you are now saying you are not sure if you will go through with it.... I would be pretty p1ssed if I was the engineer. You have potentially wasted hours of his time. Don't expect to get any favours if you ring him with a yellow sticker on the windscreen asking for help.

If you have not personally spoken to the engineer, no paperwork, costs, photographs, proposals or meetings have ocurred, then you are starting with nothing and you have to take your chances. Odds are the cert would have cost you less if you had spoken to him in the beginning.

Having dealt with an engineer on the current car I am building I am acutaually pretty impressed with what he had to add to the process -
I can see what the owner is getting for his fee, but before the car was touched the owner had written a 27 page proposal of the works to be carried out, and that is what the engineer agreed to cert.

As I said, please don't take offence, but that comment was a bit unclear.

Having said all that, I would try for the cert for sure.

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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Post by SHORT T »

go for it mate your rig is yours no one elses and mate i rekon there is to much baging out people in hear iget baged out all the time for my spelling i say who kears we are hear to talk about ow cars as long as people understand than why complain your gig sounds like it will be a lot of fun in the bush i have just gone sprngover in my car to just waiting for highsteer to come to get back in the bush seua
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Post by droopypete »

zookdave wrote:Maybe its just the setup you have pete? BTW what setup are you running to get those 33s fitting.
Sorry Dave, I missed your post,
My set up. spring over with OME springs (I have since gone rears up front),
no body lift, I am against body lifts if there is another way, (but I will say at this point that a body lift on a soft top sierra is not going to lift your COG like a body lift on a patrol)
8 inch lift blocks between the diff and the springs.
OK I am only kidding :lol: (they are only 7 inch, but made of marine ply :lol: )
I was running 33x13.5/15 claws that meseured around 32, and had no rubbing anywere, I am now running 34x 10.5/15 LTB's that are prety close to 34", and have a bit of work to do :oops:
Peter.

ps I was only kidding about the marine ply lift blocks (they are only customwood) :armsup:
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Post by Vineboy »

On the subject of photos. An engineer here in NSW will only accept "film" photos not digital because of manipulation of digitals. I was going to mention if he had heard of scanning but decided to let it go.
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Post by mooks100 »

Steve, your comment is right on the money. My comment was a bit missleading. Yes, the engineer has put work in since the beginning and I will certainly pay the man for his work and the certificate regardless. The reason I posted this question was because from the start, I wanted to get the car engineered so I could sleep at night. Now with all this talk of retrospective laws comming in, I guess I'm not sleeping as well as I'd like. I wanted to get some indication on how much cred you guys give an engineering cert in light of this.
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Post by chunkz »

have i missed something?
what are these new laws?
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