Buying GQ/Maverick-LWB/SWB-Petrol/Diesel
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Hi ppl i think i will be buying a GQ/Maverick in the very near future and would like some advice as this would be my second 4wd.
I dont want to start any swb V's lwb or petrol V's diesel debates just want to know personal opinions from owners or past owners
I would be using the 4wd as a daily driver (do around 75km/day through traffic) and also for some reasonable touring and some harder offroad tracks close to Melb
I have been considering both long and short wheelbase GQ/Mavericks
1)What is the advantage or Disadvantage of a lWB or SWB?? More fuel? Less fuel? Turning circle
2)Should i go 4.2 Turbo diesel or petrol on lpg?
My surf was a 3 litre TD and had heaps of low down torque and great engine braking. It used around 12-13l/100km which at current diesel prices is around $16 for 100km. Also i'm not keen on rebuilding a diesel after the trouble i have gone through with the surf. (insurance just got quoted $9500 to fix my surf motor!!)
3) should i buy something standard and build it up a bit or buy 1 for a bit extra and enjoy their mods?
4) Probably the most important is what should i be looking out for when i start looking. Rust?, strange noises? Common problems? Big lift with no engineers?
I'm looking at spending around $11,000 but am flexible
Any help on the matter would be great!!
Thanks everyone who replies
Bond
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Buying GQ/Maverick
Buying GQ/Maverick
GQII Patrol YAY!!
Re: Buying GQ/Maverick
Well good luck getting thatJimbo wrote:Hi ppl i think i will be buying a GQ/Maverick in the very near future and would like some advice as this would be my second 4wd.
I dont want to start any swb V's lwb or petrol V's diesel debates just want to know personal opinions from owners or past owners
Everyone is normally defensive of what they bought.
A 4.2 GQ petrol will use about 20 litres per day doing that. This is a strong case for LPG.Jimbo wrote:I would be using the 4wd as a daily driver (do around 75km/day through traffic) and also for some reasonable touring and some harder offroad tracks close to Melb
If you really dont think a 3 litre would hinder you too much that would sue about 12 litres.
SWB are quicker in traffic, use less fuel, much easier to park in shopping centres etc. Much more manoueverable offroad at a cost of a feeling that they're no so safe climbing steep hills. Much better ramp over angle at same level lift - but complications suspension lifting above 2" is common.Jimbo wrote:1)What is the advantage or Disadvantage of a lWB or SWB?? More fuel? Less fuel? Turning circle
Despite occasional front wheel up situations it's still very rare for SWB GQ's to roll outside of comps.
LWB need to do a 3 point turn to u turn on a 4 lane road, use much more fuel and are a bitch for parking in general. Feel substantially safer climbing steep hills but can really struggle for manoeverability offroad.
Worse ramp over angle at same level lift - but easier to lift >2"-4" than a SWB.
Generally either will get to the same destination offroad in the end, there isn't much difference in actuall offroad performance.
If you have family, or carry a lot of gear LWB is the go.
My surf was a 3 litre TD and had heaps of low down torque and great engine braking. It used around 12-13l/100km which at current diesel prices is around $16 for 100km. Also i'm not keen on rebuilding a diesel after the trouble i have gone through with the surf. (insurance just got quoted $9500 to fix my surf motor!!)[/quote]Jimbo wrote:2)Should i go 4.2 Turbo diesel or petrol on lpg?
This is one of the key things Diesel "prophets" dont take into account - they are SUPER expensive to fix. Take that into account with running costs and petrol look very cheap by comparison.
Are you sure you dont want to V8 (or even V6 commo) transplant your Surf?
That's always a tough call - and depends on what's available at the time. There's good reasons for both approaches.Jimbo wrote:3) should i buy something standard and build it up a bit or buy 1 for a bit extra and enjoy their mods?
Jimbo wrote:4) Probably the most important is what should i be looking out for when i start looking. Rust?, strange noises? Common problems? Big lift with no engineers?
Rust in the rear window frames is common - so what - little consequence.
Body mount noises (clicking) is common - good excuse for body lift
Engine mount failure is common, as are chewed out front radius arm bushes.
Other than that Patrols are tough.
i guess a LWB is good beside carring more,its center of gravity is alot better then swb, althought the it dose drink some duce,
if i had the option i wood go the 4.2 turbo diesil as far as i know feul last longer in the diesil ,fair amount of pulling power and lives longer then petrol:)
id say start off standard , becuase in few years time you look back at what ya done to it and there sorta pride and acomplisment at what you have done to it and it give you somthing to talk about and ask plenty of questions along the way it probly best way to find out about your rigg:)
common problems id have to say are
feul sender dosent give correct readings,
on some modles id say the km travel counter
the clock dry connection
speedo some times they work some dont it just a simple dry connection there
i found water pump on some maybe
other i cant think of at the mement
as for rust the fire wall and the guttering are the 2 big ones i know off
theres probly much more but iv only encounter some of these so far
if i had the option i wood go the 4.2 turbo diesil as far as i know feul last longer in the diesil ,fair amount of pulling power and lives longer then petrol:)
id say start off standard , becuase in few years time you look back at what ya done to it and there sorta pride and acomplisment at what you have done to it and it give you somthing to talk about and ask plenty of questions along the way it probly best way to find out about your rigg:)
common problems id have to say are
feul sender dosent give correct readings,
on some modles id say the km travel counter
the clock dry connection
speedo some times they work some dont it just a simple dry connection there
i found water pump on some maybe
other i cant think of at the mement
as for rust the fire wall and the guttering are the 2 big ones i know off
theres probly much more but iv only encounter some of these so far
1995 land rover disco on 265 muddies
decisions
Having just sold my LWB and now driving a SWB can tell you a bit about both.
The LWB 3.0L petrol i had was fairly sluggish everywhere but fine in Low range, I had 33"s and 60mm EFS lift. I found it really capable as a regular tow vehcile and my weekend off road tourer. Having the RB-30 it was super reliable mechanically, I had plans to turbo it using VL stuff but had to let it go. Economy on the open road was dissapointing on a canberra run (just tuned) 18.5L/100 trying my ass off to be lite on the pedal.
I only sold it coz the old man leased a new F250 and let me have his faithfull old GQ SWB with 250,000 on the clock. Now im not saying this happens to all TB42s but i am certainly not alone, Cylinder heads. THis one had gone on LPG 50K earlier and was using water, diagnosis cylinder head cracked. I replaced it myself using a new casting from nissan and genuine head gasket, still cost me $2500. Economy on Gas isnt too flash im still not convinced mine is tuned correctly 80L gets me 420kms i feel I can get better, my auto is rebuilt ( another thing to need attention at 200,000km or there abouts). On unleaded the 4.2 uses about 22L/100.
As far as modifying or buying modified, that just depends on whats available for your price, my advice would try and get as many accessories as you can, 9/10 times if ist not accessorised its running original worn out stuff, ie springs shocks. Shorties dont like lift i found that out last week but 50mm is heaps for my 33x10.5x15 (yes they do exist) BF G at's.
what to check for? what all the other fellas said but having worked on mates hi-luxes among others i would have to say the nissans are very soundly engineered and great value second hand.
The LWB 3.0L petrol i had was fairly sluggish everywhere but fine in Low range, I had 33"s and 60mm EFS lift. I found it really capable as a regular tow vehcile and my weekend off road tourer. Having the RB-30 it was super reliable mechanically, I had plans to turbo it using VL stuff but had to let it go. Economy on the open road was dissapointing on a canberra run (just tuned) 18.5L/100 trying my ass off to be lite on the pedal.
I only sold it coz the old man leased a new F250 and let me have his faithfull old GQ SWB with 250,000 on the clock. Now im not saying this happens to all TB42s but i am certainly not alone, Cylinder heads. THis one had gone on LPG 50K earlier and was using water, diagnosis cylinder head cracked. I replaced it myself using a new casting from nissan and genuine head gasket, still cost me $2500. Economy on Gas isnt too flash im still not convinced mine is tuned correctly 80L gets me 420kms i feel I can get better, my auto is rebuilt ( another thing to need attention at 200,000km or there abouts). On unleaded the 4.2 uses about 22L/100.
As far as modifying or buying modified, that just depends on whats available for your price, my advice would try and get as many accessories as you can, 9/10 times if ist not accessorised its running original worn out stuff, ie springs shocks. Shorties dont like lift i found that out last week but 50mm is heaps for my 33x10.5x15 (yes they do exist) BF G at's.
what to check for? what all the other fellas said but having worked on mates hi-luxes among others i would have to say the nissans are very soundly engineered and great value second hand.
GU TB45 tractor
GQ
Thanks fo rthe replies.
I have been looking in the trading post and carsales and there are so many gq/mavericks to chose from. I will be going to look at a few shortly and drive swb and lwb as well as diesels, autos and manuals.
One more question are the autos strong? Do they last long or handle 4wd abuse?
Cheers
I have been looking in the trading post and carsales and there are so many gq/mavericks to chose from. I will be going to look at a few shortly and drive swb and lwb as well as diesels, autos and manuals.
One more question are the autos strong? Do they last long or handle 4wd abuse?
Cheers
GQII Patrol YAY!!
The auto's behind the 4.2's can be expensive to fix. A mates (TB42) auto went bang about 18 months ago and it cost him about 6k to rebuild it. I dont think he got the greatest deal on the work but thats some indication of the cost. These days it would be cheaper to buy a complete auto GQ for parts and sell the rest to recoup some of the costs. Not sure if the autos behind the 3.0 petrols' are the same (I doubt it).
The manual boxes behind the 4.2's last a long time. The manual boxes behind the 2.8 and 3.0 petrol are a smaller car type box.
The manual boxes behind the 4.2's last a long time. The manual boxes behind the 2.8 and 3.0 petrol are a smaller car type box.
The auto for the 4.2 is different to the 3 litre. The drivetrain the the 3 litre is skyline based.
If you were up for an auto tranny you'd be better off doing an engine transplant to a V8 it seems. Preferably a Q45 infiniti..... or maybe a TB45
If an engine transplant is your plan all along with a dead head or auto they can be bought cheap.
Rebuilding a manual would be expensive too..... those things weigh a ton and the parts on them are all big.
You wont find too many with good manuals - the box comes out of a Nissan truck so you should expect it to shift in a very slow and trucklike manner, often in a very notchy way cos we all dont always have all day to shift gear.
If you can deal with this you'll be fine but don't expect any of the used boxes to be especially smooth. Synchros are often a bit worn and sticky.
Nothing new there - it seems a nissan trait. Doesnt stop the boxes lasting for years though.
The 3 litre has some benefits in the drivetrain in the commodore (VL) and skyline is the same, but better (EFI) and can be transplanted. This gives 30% more power and a significant improvement in fuel economy. Obviously a VL turbo or RB 25 turbo would be better again at both.
It's been brought up before but the difference in power is quite high. All motors can be tuned for more go if you think you need it - yes even the "lead block" TB42.
TB42 = 125kw (129kw later GQ2 EFI)
RB30 (early GQ Patrol spec) = 88kw
RB30 EFI (skyline spec) = 114kw
RB30 Turbo (VL turbo) = 150kw
and just for a little juice RB25 Turbo (skyline R33 import) = 185kw
If you were up for an auto tranny you'd be better off doing an engine transplant to a V8 it seems. Preferably a Q45 infiniti..... or maybe a TB45
If an engine transplant is your plan all along with a dead head or auto they can be bought cheap.
Rebuilding a manual would be expensive too..... those things weigh a ton and the parts on them are all big.
You wont find too many with good manuals - the box comes out of a Nissan truck so you should expect it to shift in a very slow and trucklike manner, often in a very notchy way cos we all dont always have all day to shift gear.
If you can deal with this you'll be fine but don't expect any of the used boxes to be especially smooth. Synchros are often a bit worn and sticky.
Nothing new there - it seems a nissan trait. Doesnt stop the boxes lasting for years though.
The 3 litre has some benefits in the drivetrain in the commodore (VL) and skyline is the same, but better (EFI) and can be transplanted. This gives 30% more power and a significant improvement in fuel economy. Obviously a VL turbo or RB 25 turbo would be better again at both.
It's been brought up before but the difference in power is quite high. All motors can be tuned for more go if you think you need it - yes even the "lead block" TB42.
TB42 = 125kw (129kw later GQ2 EFI)
RB30 (early GQ Patrol spec) = 88kw
RB30 EFI (skyline spec) = 114kw
RB30 Turbo (VL turbo) = 150kw
and just for a little juice RB25 Turbo (skyline R33 import) = 185kw
GQ
OK ppl i might be looking at a GQ LWB tomorrow.
It has a 7' lift (i was looking for max 5 maybe 6' lift) and is fully engineered. However my biggest concern is that it has a 5 link front. I do not know much about suspension mods and would like to know what this vehicle will be like. ill the link make it sway more or handle worse onroad?
What problems could i face with having a 5 link front? What should i look out for?
Thanks again people
jim
It has a 7' lift (i was looking for max 5 maybe 6' lift) and is fully engineered. However my biggest concern is that it has a 5 link front. I do not know much about suspension mods and would like to know what this vehicle will be like. ill the link make it sway more or handle worse onroad?
What problems could i face with having a 5 link front? What should i look out for?
Thanks again people
jim
GQII Patrol YAY!!
He was robbed blind.Mark2 wrote:A mates (TB42) auto went bang about 18 months ago and it cost him about 6k to rebuild it..
Total rebuild of everything is no more than $4k. Dude in our club had his done for $3500....
Buyin a GQ, look for these things
http://www.gqpatrol.com/buyingagq.htm
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