Hey all,
I just recently bought a 1995 Suzuki Sierra 1.3Lt, previoulsy i had a MQ Diesel Patrol.
The sierra is dead stock and i want to stat modifying it asap. ive set aside about $7000 for mods. So what do you guys recomend??
I Want to do a SPOA and ive been quoted $1200 drive in drive out. But having a look underneath it doesnt seem like it requires many parts? How much would a SPOA lift? enuff to put 33s on? Is there any place in Vic (western suburbs of melb prefered) where i can get it done or a place that sells kits?
Next thing i also want to do is an engine conversion. Ive seen kits for $400 that will allow a 1.6ltr carby to go in. But then the 1.6ltr is about $1500 ive been told and u get flooding or starving problems while 4wdin. Ive also heard the 1.3lt swift engines have more power. will that fit straight in? I also saw an Autospeed article with a 1.3 gti head on a 1.6 bottom end, anyone done this? Is there any other engines i can throw in for a decent price....i heard that a 4agze conversion is a bit costly
My gearbox also seems to be very noisy when moving and clunky when changing gears, how are other people sierra gearboxes? Will a 1.6 Vitara one go in with no hassles?
Having a diesel i didnt really have any problems with water. My friend has a vitara and as soon as he hits the water his car stalls cause theres water on the dizzy or something. What can be done to prevent the car from stalling when u hit water? Will the same thing happen to a efi petrol?
Sorry for all the questions but i know nothing at all about these sierras.
Thanks
Mario
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Noob needs help!
hey mario.from memory i think a spoa gives about 3" of lift(someone will correct me if im wrong)you will get the same flooding problem with the 1.6 carb.i have now done 2 efi vitara conversions in my spook,the first one i used an adaptor kit and it didnt fit very well at all.the second i made my own kit and engine mounts.the only other thing you have to do is grind the back off the starter,fit fuel pump and filter and H/p fuel lines,fit the computer.you can use the complete vitara wireing harness with little
fuss.just be warned if you do not have a body lift the engine will come very close to hitting the bonnet.
fuss.just be warned if you do not have a body lift the engine will come very close to hitting the bonnet.
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
I think the SPOA is more like 4 inches, I have 1.5 inch extened shackles and easily clear 32X11.5's so I'd say with a similar setup and some cutting the 33's would fit sweet.
I think a SPOA, series 3 rock hopper and F & R arb's and you should be well under the 7k budget for replacing/repairing engines and gearboxes.
POST A PIC OF YOUR RIG
I think a SPOA, series 3 rock hopper and F & R arb's and you should be well under the 7k budget for replacing/repairing engines and gearboxes.
POST A PIC OF YOUR RIG
yeshemesh
I'll wade in here with my .02c worth. You don't need to go SPOA to run 33s. Myself and Greg are running 34 swampers with this set up. Old Man Emu rear springs all round, extended front chassis, 1.5" extended shackles, cut guards and a 2" body lift. There is slight rubbing on the inner wheel arches on the front but that is all. This gives nice flex and keeps the car low. Spring life is good as you don't get the major axle wrap issues a spoa can cause. Your steering is left stock.
In addition to that I would get a rockhopper either series 1 (4:1) or Series 3 (6:1) and a set of lockers.
What do you want to do with the car, what sort of driving will you do and is it a daily driver?
In addition to that I would get a rockhopper either series 1 (4:1) or Series 3 (6:1) and a set of lockers.
What do you want to do with the car, what sort of driving will you do and is it a daily driver?
Ransom note = demand + collage
[quote="grimbo"]
In addition to that I would get a rockhopper either series 1 (4:1) or Series 3 (6:1) and a set of lockers.
quote]
I would even go as far as saying that once you put some lower gearing in the car, you may not even need to do anything to the engine - unless you are actually flooding the carb (i.e. running your car on some nice angles)
Mario, the distributor in the sierra is positioned very high up in the engine bay and i have never seen anyone get water in it - more likely you will want to do something about the air intake on the motor (i.e. put a snorkel on it), because i have seen people flood their engines on occasion.
Total 4wd in epping would be closer to you than 4 play offroad.
Cheers
In addition to that I would get a rockhopper either series 1 (4:1) or Series 3 (6:1) and a set of lockers.
quote]
I would even go as far as saying that once you put some lower gearing in the car, you may not even need to do anything to the engine - unless you are actually flooding the carb (i.e. running your car on some nice angles)
Mario, the distributor in the sierra is positioned very high up in the engine bay and i have never seen anyone get water in it - more likely you will want to do something about the air intake on the motor (i.e. put a snorkel on it), because i have seen people flood their engines on occasion.
Total 4wd in epping would be closer to you than 4 play offroad.
Cheers
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Spring life and SPOA ..
I personally do not belive that a large flexing SPOA vehicle is any harder on springs than a large flexing SPUA ..
Axle wrap a non issue on SPUA .. I also say bollocks .. Have a look at the dents in gregs shocks .. as well as the brake lines on his rear diff .. his axle wrap is limited by the fact the shocks hit the diff and limit it .. Both Mock on Greg are noticing major spring "settlement" on their vehicles with mock having recently replaced his 6 month old OME fronts (correct me if I am wrong here as this has some degree of speculation as I heard the question asked about wht he was doing with his old fronts and I noticed after he popped the last CV his fronts had a definate "w" pattern in them)
Like a coil .. leaves are only supposed to be compressed and extended by X% of their length.
With most of these mods (with the exception of the guards) you will need an engineers cert to remain "fully legal".
A SPOA can be done ALOT cheaper than $1200 and done properly as well. steering mods you have a few choices with SPOA you can do a Z link, there are a couple of these in the club with engineers certs, or you can build a type of "crossover" steering that will pick up from the top of the steering knuckle .. Or you can stay spring under and go for lift springs with a small bodylift ..
I would say your best bet is to go on a couple of runs see a few trucks working and make up you r mind from what you have seen ...
There are a few modded Zuks about in the "general area of melton" I am in essendon and am often in Sunbury at my brothers working on my Zuk
I personally do not belive that a large flexing SPOA vehicle is any harder on springs than a large flexing SPUA ..
Axle wrap a non issue on SPUA .. I also say bollocks .. Have a look at the dents in gregs shocks .. as well as the brake lines on his rear diff .. his axle wrap is limited by the fact the shocks hit the diff and limit it .. Both Mock on Greg are noticing major spring "settlement" on their vehicles with mock having recently replaced his 6 month old OME fronts (correct me if I am wrong here as this has some degree of speculation as I heard the question asked about wht he was doing with his old fronts and I noticed after he popped the last CV his fronts had a definate "w" pattern in them)
Like a coil .. leaves are only supposed to be compressed and extended by X% of their length.
With most of these mods (with the exception of the guards) you will need an engineers cert to remain "fully legal".
A SPOA can be done ALOT cheaper than $1200 and done properly as well. steering mods you have a few choices with SPOA you can do a Z link, there are a couple of these in the club with engineers certs, or you can build a type of "crossover" steering that will pick up from the top of the steering knuckle .. Or you can stay spring under and go for lift springs with a small bodylift ..
I would say your best bet is to go on a couple of runs see a few trucks working and make up you r mind from what you have seen ...
There are a few modded Zuks about in the "general area of melton" I am in essendon and am often in Sunbury at my brothers working on my Zuk
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
I would have to disagree (well duh). The main problem with the SPOA is that it asking a spring that is designed for use in a SPUA config to operate in an entirely different manner which will lead to a shorter life. It has too as it will have its flex points changed as the leverage is coming in different ways.
As to the spring life of mine, Gregs and Mocks being short as well. Yes that is right but again we are asking more of the leaves than they were designed for. We have removed leaves so the carrying capacity is less = more flex and we are hanging big tyres 34s and 36s off the ends. All of this will compromise the life of a spring.
As i said in my earlier post you don't NEED to go SPOA to fit 33s there are other options rather than everyone's first response of "I have to go SPOA to make it fit" No you don't you can keep it low and cut to make a bigger tyre fit. Is it the best answer no but it is an answer as to is SPOA. Is SPOA the best answer no.
Any mod will cause a domino effect as it effects other things, compromise is always part of a well set up vehicle IMHO.
As to the spring life of mine, Gregs and Mocks being short as well. Yes that is right but again we are asking more of the leaves than they were designed for. We have removed leaves so the carrying capacity is less = more flex and we are hanging big tyres 34s and 36s off the ends. All of this will compromise the life of a spring.
As i said in my earlier post you don't NEED to go SPOA to fit 33s there are other options rather than everyone's first response of "I have to go SPOA to make it fit" No you don't you can keep it low and cut to make a bigger tyre fit. Is it the best answer no but it is an answer as to is SPOA. Is SPOA the best answer no.
Any mod will cause a domino effect as it effects other things, compromise is always part of a well set up vehicle IMHO.
Ransom note = demand + collage
grimbo wrote:As i said in my earlier post you don't NEED to go SPOA to fit 33s there are other options rather than everyone's first response of "I have to go SPOA to make it fit" No you don't you can keep it low and cut to make a bigger tyre fit. Is it the best answer no but it is an answer as to is SPOA. Is SPOA the best answer no.
Any mod will cause a domino effect as it effects other things, compromise is always part of a well set up vehicle IMHO.
I'll agree with this. I happily ran 32" BFG MTs spring under without any gaurd chopping and was relatively happy with how it worked. I could do most things I tried, although sometimes I chickened out (fear of breaking the daily driver).
I'll also second the domino effect comment. I've experienced it first hand.
Skippy
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love_mud wrote:Spring life and SPOA ..
Axle wrap a non issue on SPUA .. I also say bollocks .. Have a look at the dents in gregs shocks .. as well as the brake lines on his rear diff .. his axle wrap is limited by the fact the shocks hit the diff and limit it ..
I don't believe the dents in the shocks are due to axel wrap. They are because we set the shock mounts up directly above the rear axel, this means that when the axel rises up and moves back (as per normal leaf spring movement due to the fact that the shackles are at the back - just like the front axel goes forward under compression), the shocks were touched by the axel housing.
We are moving the shock mounts back a few inches now - this is also due to the positioning of the fuel tank - should fix the shock damage issue too i hope
So again - not axel wrap, just poor placement of shock mounts.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Thanks for the replies.
I will post some pics as soon as i get myself a digi-cam, hopefully this weekend.
Nam - Yeah sweet, we'll meet up for sure, u ever goto Wombat State forest for bash?
Grimbo - Where did you get all your parts from? How much roughly did it cost? I think ill only put 33" muds on and use some other A/T for daily driving
So, 'rockhoppers' are gearing sets right? since i will still be driving on the highway, will i still be able to hit close to 100km/h? (im not sure if i can even hit 100km/h at the moment even)
Yeah looking at allthe replies i might stray from the SPOA if i can fit the 33s with other mods.
But i still feel that i need a bigger (faster) engine, (ive owned 4 jap turbos alreayd so im a speed freak). Will extractors, induction, cam work make any differance to the 1.3lt?
So F/R lockers about $3000?
33" w Rims $1500?
Bull Bar/Side Steps $1000?
Rockhopper Gears ????
Lift to fit 33"s ????
hope it comes under $7000
Anyone selling any of these parts?..... Oh yeah how do you tell if its a Narrow Track or a Wide Track?
I will post some pics as soon as i get myself a digi-cam, hopefully this weekend.
Nam - Yeah sweet, we'll meet up for sure, u ever goto Wombat State forest for bash?
Grimbo - Where did you get all your parts from? How much roughly did it cost? I think ill only put 33" muds on and use some other A/T for daily driving
So, 'rockhoppers' are gearing sets right? since i will still be driving on the highway, will i still be able to hit close to 100km/h? (im not sure if i can even hit 100km/h at the moment even)
Yeah looking at allthe replies i might stray from the SPOA if i can fit the 33s with other mods.
But i still feel that i need a bigger (faster) engine, (ive owned 4 jap turbos alreayd so im a speed freak). Will extractors, induction, cam work make any differance to the 1.3lt?
So F/R lockers about $3000?
33" w Rims $1500?
Bull Bar/Side Steps $1000?
Rockhopper Gears ????
Lift to fit 33"s ????
hope it comes under $7000
Anyone selling any of these parts?..... Oh yeah how do you tell if its a Narrow Track or a Wide Track?
Marz wrote:Thanks for the replies.
So, 'rockhoppers' are gearing sets right? since i will still be driving on the highway, will i still be able to hit close to 100km/h? (im not sure if i can even hit 100km/h at the moment even)
Yeah looking at allthe replies i might stray from the SPOA if i can fit the 33s with other mods.
But i still feel that i need a bigger (faster) engine, (ive owned 4 jap turbos alreayd so im a speed freak). Will extractors, induction, cam work make any differance to the 1.3lt?
So F/R lockers about $3000?
33" w Rims $1500?
Bull Bar/Side Steps $1000?
Rockhopper Gears ????
Lift to fit 33"s ????
hope it comes under $7000
Anyone selling any of these parts?..... Oh yeah how do you tell if its a Narrow Track or a Wide Track?
Since your car is a 95 model, it will be a wide track. The easiest way to confirm this is to look under the car at the front, if your leaf springs sit half outside the frame rails - it's a wide track, if they sit exactly under the frame rail - it's a narrow track.
For $7000 i would do the following:
Rockhopper 4:1 (1200 fitted) or Rockhopper 6:1 (1500 fitted)
ARB Lockers Front and Rear - 3200 fitted (or you could weld up the rear and save 1500 from that).
Side Steps - No way!
Bull Bar - maybe?
Suspension Work / Lift / Body Lift - 1200 - 1800 - depending on what path you take
Rims and Big Tyres of Somesort - 1200 - 1800 - again, depends what you get.
So that still leaves plenty for your engine mods / replacement i think - but only if you skimp a bit in some areas.
Cheers,
Greg
p.s. i'm selling an ARB Bull bar if you decide that you do want one.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Greg the dents may be in part from poor choice of mounting position but they are also from wrap ... having watched you when you were climbing the boulders .. you were getting quite a bit
(the pinion would lift a good 8 to 10cms )
(the pinion would lift a good 8 to 10cms )
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
I got my springs from ARb so look around $700 for new springs. Extended shackles are just heavy wall u channel and Grade 8 or hi tensile (I can never remember which but use the best) The extended chassis a friend did so no idea how much that would cost. Air locker was free (I was one of the guinea pig testers as was Moose) but as greg said around $1500 fitted and then weld the rear. The rockhoppers you can get thru Big Balls offroad. A local distributor is Total 4WD but from posts in the general discussion not sure what is going on with them.
My advice would be to go out with some zuks and see what they can do and what the different mods will do before pouring $7000 into it. It all comes down to what you want to do with it. Our club is a good stArting point maybe (plug, plug, hint hint )
My advice would be to go out with some zuks and see what they can do and what the different mods will do before pouring $7000 into it. It all comes down to what you want to do with it. Our club is a good stArting point maybe (plug, plug, hint hint
)Ransom note = demand + collage
love_mud wrote:Greg the dents may be in part from poor choice of mounting position but they are also from wrap ... having watched you when you were climbing the boulders .. you were getting quite a bit
(the pinion would lift a good 8 to 10cms )
shhhh!
Dunno mate - obviously i was driving so i didn't notice it.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
correct me if i'm wrong but with a 95 mod sierra to fit rock hopper gear sets you'll also need a second hand transfer case from an older gear driven (opposed to chain driven) model !
it was said put in f/r diff locks which is great if your gearing can drive it or it won't be long till you'll be replacing your clutch, that depending on the inclines and terrain you tend to want to drive,
1.3 good water crossers except for intake, make a snorkel!
if the carby is set right it shouldn't flood even on realy bad angles
if your putting 33's on and diff locks obviously you'll need reduced gearing , probably be good idea to save for spare birfeilds, i know theres fellas on here with locked rigs running bigger than 33" tires that hardley break em , but if your a speed freak and like giving your accelerater the berries and play on hard surfaces they'll most likely pop!
good luck on your build
it was said put in f/r diff locks which is great if your gearing can drive it or it won't be long till you'll be replacing your clutch, that depending on the inclines and terrain you tend to want to drive,
1.3 good water crossers except for intake, make a snorkel!
if the carby is set right it shouldn't flood even on realy bad angles
if your putting 33's on and diff locks obviously you'll need reduced gearing , probably be good idea to save for spare birfeilds, i know theres fellas on here with locked rigs running bigger than 33" tires that hardley break em , but if your a speed freak and like giving your accelerater the berries and play on hard surfaces they'll most likely pop!
good luck on your build
if its worth doing do it intensly , better still do it with MADPASSION
set your limits way beyond your abilities
set your limits way beyond your abilities
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