G'day guys,
My search didn't really give the info I need.
What mods do I need to do to fit a 2" bodylift. I know I need to slip the fuel filler hose down but what about the steering shaft and transmission sticks, do I need to enlarge the holes etc and what about the handbrake?
For the body lift and 2" spring lift what length brake lines should I get?
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Mods for Bodylift
I have a 94 Zook no mods done on mine just lift and seperate (sorry thats a bra ad) I ment when I had the 2" inch lift no mods where needed AFAIK except the tyres were 30" BFG mud/snow so you need to bash under the guards and mod the front bumper bar abit so no scrapping... Make sure that all the seam joints under the wheel arches are all bashed flat as in an extreme articlulation it will bite at the your tyres and cut / slice chunks out of your tread..
Last edited by bushpig59 on Sat Jul 22, 2006 9:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
GEELONG 4 WHEEL DRIVE FORUM
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For a two inch body lift, you will have to, or it is best to (and I am sure others will probably add to this):
insert an extra washer into the ragjoint of your steering or extend the spline. The ragjoint is simple and the method I prefer. Just undo the four small bolts through the joint, remove the leather washer (about 8mm thick, 50mm round incase you are not sure what you are looking for) replace it with two and bolt it back up.
Before you lift the body, in addition to the mounts and the fuel filler; it is best to undo the bracket on the brake hardlines just below where the battery sits. You may have a small hole lower down where this can bolt straight back into after the lift which is the easiest way or you can also just drill your own hole. A body lift itself does not require an extension to the flexible brake lines, these terminate at the chassis, and you haven't altered this relationship with a body lift.
Before you lift the body, loosen the plates that surround your gear lever and TC lever, this just helps make for a smoother lift. There is no need to extend or bend them on 2" and I have never encountered a need to enlarge the holes, though I too have seen this referred too (perhaps for greater than 2" lift).
Check your engine bay and undercarraige for anything which may be connected to both the chassis and body, and may not have enough give. Common offenders are, cabletied wiring or breather hoses.
Loosen handbrake cable before lift, re-tighten after. Simple
insert an extra washer into the ragjoint of your steering or extend the spline. The ragjoint is simple and the method I prefer. Just undo the four small bolts through the joint, remove the leather washer (about 8mm thick, 50mm round incase you are not sure what you are looking for) replace it with two and bolt it back up.
Before you lift the body, in addition to the mounts and the fuel filler; it is best to undo the bracket on the brake hardlines just below where the battery sits. You may have a small hole lower down where this can bolt straight back into after the lift which is the easiest way or you can also just drill your own hole. A body lift itself does not require an extension to the flexible brake lines, these terminate at the chassis, and you haven't altered this relationship with a body lift.
Before you lift the body, loosen the plates that surround your gear lever and TC lever, this just helps make for a smoother lift. There is no need to extend or bend them on 2" and I have never encountered a need to enlarge the holes, though I too have seen this referred too (perhaps for greater than 2" lift).
Check your engine bay and undercarraige for anything which may be connected to both the chassis and body, and may not have enough give. Common offenders are, cabletied wiring or breather hoses.
Loosen handbrake cable before lift, re-tighten after. Simple
I've done a dozen or so body lifts on sierras, and have found that some require the shifter holes to be "massaged" slightly, where others do not.
There doesn't appear to be any pattern regarding which model zooks require this to be done
Just fit the body lift, then tighten it all down, and THEN test the levers.
There doesn't appear to be any pattern regarding which model zooks require this to be done

Just fit the body lift, then tighten it all down, and THEN test the levers.
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