EGT guage Q's

[Cruzer!]

Hi

GOt an EGT guage for my cruiser so i know how hot the poor girs running when i play with my fuel pump... but...

1. Where should i install the sender... i was thinking right where my extracters go into one pipe, but someone else told me on number 6 exhaust header.

2. What are safe/dangerous egt values for a 2h. Or is there somewhere on the net i can find this out.

Thanks
Ben

[LuxyBoy]

Have mine installed after the extractors as it is as close to the head as possible without interfering with the tuning of your extractors.

My 3L runs about 400C at a steady pace
650C is about the max up hill hauling ass, as the revs drop the temp rises.

My experience just got mine last week though. Went for a drive from Brisbane to Yamba to watch it work; and have a surf

Oh, mine has lpg fumigation so it runs slightly cooler than most; only tens of degrees though not hundreds.

[dumbdunce]

600 - 650 is about the top of "safe" for a naturally aspirated 2H, and I wouldn't go for sustained 550+ for any more than a minute or so. The problem with extractors is that the junction os so far from the exhaust port that there can be a large temperature difference between the port and the collector, so if you put the probe in at the junction to get an 'average' reading across all cylinders, it will be cooler than the temperature at the port. how much cooler? well it's hard to say without putting the probe in at the port first and then measuring at the junction. The problem with putting the thermocouple on just one cylinder is you get a very accurate reading for that one cylinder but if another cylinder (or all the other cylinders) are running richer than the one you are measuring, then you won't find out until your motor blows up.

suggestion: borrow a thermo-gun, run up your engine on a good hard run, and measure the temperature at the collector and at each header port; you have to be quick (or do it on a dyno) to get accurate readings. then you get an idea of the temp difference between port and junction, and you can use that to de-rate your safe temp at the juntion.


question: why are you bothering with a non-turbocharged 2H? just set it up for minimal smoke at full throttle; if your injectors are in decent shape then you will get very close to max power and your EGT's will be safe. Sell your Pyro and put the money towards a home-brew turbo setup!

[Cruzer!]

question: why are you bothering with a non-turbocharged 2H? just set it up for minimal smoke at full throttle; if your injectors are in decent shape then you will get very close to max power and your EGT's will be safe. Sell your Pyro and put the money towards a home-brew turbo setup!

Coz I'm a poor 3yr Mechanic apprentice I just did top end on the bruiser, porting it out, new exhaust, finer filter, playing aorund with injection and fixing spill timing and pump values and was given a EGT guag so tohught i might throw it in.. One day ill get a hairdryer wacked onto the side of my old donk

[dumbdunce]

question: why are you bothering with a non-turbocharged 2H? just set it up for minimal smoke at full throttle; if your injectors are in decent shape then you will get very close to max power and your EGT's will be safe. Sell your Pyro and put the money towards a home-brew turbo setup!

Coz I'm a poor 3yr Mechanic apprentice I just did top end on the bruiser, porting it out, new exhaust, finer filter, playing aorund with injection and fixing spill timing and pump values and was given a EGT guag so tohught i might throw it in.. One day ill get a hairdryer wacked onto the side of my old donk

fair enough.

ditch that foam filter, it's junk. the best filter is the factory paper filter.

if you have access to a MIG and some welding skillz you should be able to home brew a turbo for well under $1000; parts along probably under $600 for a second-hand turbo and all the plumbing you need. don't even need to take the sump off a 2H to plumb the oil return.

[Cruzer!]

i was thinking that, water line could come from the water temp sensor on top of the head and return throguh the drain bung under the exhaust manifold, oil could feed and return through vacuum pump bungs?
is this how most people do them?

[dumbdunce]

i was thinking that, water line could come from the water temp sensor on top of the head and return throguh the drain bung under the exhaust manifold, oil could feed and return through vacuum pump bungs?
is this how most people do them?

tee into both the heater hoses for water. you can go screwing fitting into various places but I find the heater hoses easy.

oil feed is best taken from a tee piece behind the oil pressure sender (a little bit awkward behind the EDIC on a 2H, but tidy and a good source of high pressure oil. return line on a 2H, take off the rear side cover and weld/braze a bit of 3/4" steel pipe in it, it will be directly below the turbo.

now you have all the clues, just weld yourself up a manifold, pick up a cheap turbo on ebay or from an importer, and you're away!