Scrounged a L300 2.5d transfer.
Stripped and cleaned it looked ok so I started to fit the low transfer gears, poor old Wolfe, I see his problems.
The input gear has a narrowed bearing so I had a 2mm? spacer made to take up clearance on the new gear. The mainshaft gear is bigger than the mainshaft brg so it had to be assembled insitu, 1 ground down set of circlip pliers. The High-Low selector wouldn't clear the bigger mainshaft gear, relieved a lip to get correct engagement. The Transfer has 1 bolt different in the bolt pattern to the rear of the G/Box, used the gasket as a template and drilled the box. I had to grind the lug off the side of the G/Lever selector socket to get it to clear the T/C selector rods as they are on the opposite side of the case to the SuperSelect T/C. Ofcourse the L300 is cable change so I don't have a selector top as the SS top is a different size and arround the wrong way,
BUT, I have gained 200mm in driveshaft lehgth.
Having a modified clutch plate and higher clamping force pressure plate made up as the clutch was just on the rivets at 95000kms.
J Top
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SAS STARTED
Moderator: -Scott-
The gearbox Xmember is built, 1.5 days??.
The Twin exhaust system is built, just 2 more mounts to fit and the O2 sensor
I fitted LWB handbrake cables to make up for the 3" body lift
Now to remount the Bullbar and fab up some side bars.
I got the correct shifter top for $40 then paid $195 for the 2 levers
I don't/won't have the reverse lockout at this time.
J Top
The Twin exhaust system is built, just 2 more mounts to fit and the O2 sensor
I fitted LWB handbrake cables to make up for the 3" body lift
Now to remount the Bullbar and fab up some side bars.
I got the correct shifter top for $40 then paid $195 for the 2 levers
I don't/won't have the reverse lockout at this time.
J Top
Hi JTop
why did you change to a l300 T-case? Didn´t you see the chain of my gearbox after some offroading ? The chain the critical part of this T-case even if you have a stronger engine than the 2.5 TD Intercooler I am using in the Deli. By the you could change the lit of the L300 T-case to the Lit of a Pajero Montero I T-case without SuperSelect. A T case of an 2.6 or 2.5 TD will fit.
wolf
why did you change to a l300 T-case? Didn´t you see the chain of my gearbox after some offroading ? The chain the critical part of this T-case even if you have a stronger engine than the 2.5 TD Intercooler I am using in the Deli. By the you could change the lit of the L300 T-case to the Lit of a Pajero Montero I T-case without SuperSelect. A T case of an 2.6 or 2.5 TD will fit.
wolf
L300 4x4, Delica 4x4
J Top wrote:Hi Frank
Does the later non SS T/C require different driveshaft lengths to the early one.
J Top
I'm not 100% sure but I would say they would be the same length.
Not a big drama really you can always make up up spacer on the pinion flange. You will have to do this anyway if you dial in more rear flex to keep at least 50mm spline engagement at full flex.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Just had the ifs hub spacers made up to increase my front track, slight mistake, to be rectified at a later date, they are made of steel and weigh heaps, I think aluminium ones at a future date
The clutch is in and the g/box and t/case are in. The final measurement
on the rear d/shaft was 170mm length increase at full compression.
The front exh pipes are on and she sounds sweet, not too loud at all,
can't fit the rear pipes yet as I am making up new rear shock mounts, I am using GQ shocks with 1/2" rose joints screwed on each end.
The new front Panhard rod is built, std toyo at one end and rebuildable joint at the other.
Enlarged the gearlever hole in the floor to fit the t/c lever on the r/h side.
Mounted the on-board air tank outside the l/h chassis rail, under the l/h door.
I have done a deal on a 80 series locking front diff head to fit my 4.88 H/P
gears in, swaped for my 4.88 rear locker so when that comes through I will start on the front housing and drive shaft mods.
J Top
The clutch is in and the g/box and t/case are in. The final measurement
on the rear d/shaft was 170mm length increase at full compression.
The front exh pipes are on and she sounds sweet, not too loud at all,
can't fit the rear pipes yet as I am making up new rear shock mounts, I am using GQ shocks with 1/2" rose joints screwed on each end.
The new front Panhard rod is built, std toyo at one end and rebuildable joint at the other.
Enlarged the gearlever hole in the floor to fit the t/c lever on the r/h side.
Mounted the on-board air tank outside the l/h chassis rail, under the l/h door.
I have done a deal on a 80 series locking front diff head to fit my 4.88 H/P
gears in, swaped for my 4.88 rear locker so when that comes through I will start on the front housing and drive shaft mods.
J Top
Carl, another thing is that with the housing reversal the CV's are now running in opposite directions than before. We suspect that was a big factor with my long side CV breaking last weekend. I would swap them over.
You could clearly see the new grooves the balls had made in the bell from turning the other way.
I know that Hilux and Bundera CV's are slightly different but are interchangeable even left to right but the axles are not. If you trash a CV it will most likely mangle the axle spline so that has to be replaced as well. Bundera axles are slightly different lengths to Hilux's but add up to the same overall length (long & short) but they are not interchangeable with Hilux ones. It would suggest the Bundera centre is slightly offset compared to the Hilux ones.
Thats why I went a Hilux housing with a HP Bundy centre because Lux axles and CV's are cheap and easily got ($85 for CV with axle from wreckers) Bundy stuff is much harder to get and costs more.
May pay to scrounge some Bundy spares because from what I've seen these CV's can break very easily.
Also my hub spacers are aluminium and are used with Hilux IFS hubs they are bolted on behind the disc rotor (they are more of a disc rotor spacer) and are completely legal. This increased the front track by 3" overall and it is now dead inline with the rear. The wheel spacer type (that bolts on the outside of the rotor are not legal over here. I also used V6 4 Runner calipers (twin 45mm pistons) and 302mm slotted & vented Hilux rotors but you will need to upgrade to the V6 4 Runner 25.4mm master cylinder (Paj is 23.8mm doesn't supply enough volume). I spoke to some brake places and the Tojo master cylinder can be adapted to the Paj booster no drama's, I will be doing this next.
Cheers, Frank.
You could clearly see the new grooves the balls had made in the bell from turning the other way.
I know that Hilux and Bundera CV's are slightly different but are interchangeable even left to right but the axles are not. If you trash a CV it will most likely mangle the axle spline so that has to be replaced as well. Bundera axles are slightly different lengths to Hilux's but add up to the same overall length (long & short) but they are not interchangeable with Hilux ones. It would suggest the Bundera centre is slightly offset compared to the Hilux ones.
Thats why I went a Hilux housing with a HP Bundy centre because Lux axles and CV's are cheap and easily got ($85 for CV with axle from wreckers) Bundy stuff is much harder to get and costs more.
May pay to scrounge some Bundy spares because from what I've seen these CV's can break very easily.
Also my hub spacers are aluminium and are used with Hilux IFS hubs they are bolted on behind the disc rotor (they are more of a disc rotor spacer) and are completely legal. This increased the front track by 3" overall and it is now dead inline with the rear. The wheel spacer type (that bolts on the outside of the rotor are not legal over here. I also used V6 4 Runner calipers (twin 45mm pistons) and 302mm slotted & vented Hilux rotors but you will need to upgrade to the V6 4 Runner 25.4mm master cylinder (Paj is 23.8mm doesn't supply enough volume). I spoke to some brake places and the Tojo master cylinder can be adapted to the Paj booster no drama's, I will be doing this next.
Cheers, Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
hey guys .. dont realy know my shit here.. but do you know any swb pajero that have a soild front axle ?? and what have you guys used ? hilux axel with leaf spring's ??
im looking to put coils at the front of my swb from a hilux but carnt seem to find 1.. what year hilux has coil front or any other truck that will work
adam
im looking to put coils at the front of my swb from a hilux but carnt seem to find 1.. what year hilux has coil front or any other truck that will work
adam
3L V6 swb pajero
WHO NEEDS ROADS ?? cause i dont
WHO NEEDS ROADS ?? cause i dont
SAS
must be something in the water, uv got miyagi, hekta, myself and im sure many other thinking about SAS, miyagi's gettin there, and i hope urs is coming along too hekta or atyleats planning cos u live close enough to come check it out, plus as iv said to miyagi im keen as to help cos i want to see how a few of these go together before i start getting dirty, should be good though, so J is there any piccies that could encourage a few more SAS? 
dean
dean
would be good to see though, as i know there is atleast one seriously thikning and a few others contemplating 
Hi all, I saw one of these for sale on trade me, I've been thinking about this conversion on mine ever since I saw a friends VX at work, now seeing these post's I'm sold and have gotten the wife a new car so she cant stop me, I cant say I've ever been a fan of IFS in 4x4 situations but the paj one does seem to be one of the better setups, I'm picking from what I've been reading on here and by looking at the pics that your using hilux axle, correct? I've been looking at 70 series prado front axle, already being a left set head there is also the other bonus that they also have the high set pinion's for both front and rear, I'd for sure change to 70 series rear as well, as the biggest grooves in mud trenchs are almost always left by v23 rear heads. even on 33's my v23s rear head is only mm's higher than a friends lux on 31's. good for being strong but strong isnt all that helpful when the heads got you stuck on the ground, any thoughts on the 70 series prado axles would be great. cheers.
Ahh someone has led me astray with telling me they were left hand, this is mine here, http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules ... _album.php although it was looking tidyísh and newísh then, was pretty bloody amazing the places it would go on street rubber have plenty more pics of it in stupid situations now though with it not looking so fresh on it anymore. I've even got one pic of the rock that almost tore the entire l/h top front a arm out of it. anyway, back to the thing thats got me all excited, who built all the parts for your lift and SAS conversion? cheers
Glenn
Glenn
Fair enough
I'll just do it all myself then, extra bonus also i found a couple of left head diffs yesterday, only out by mm's on the width compared to the paj item and have the same pinion flange, now where did I leave my recipro!
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