I was wondering what peoples opinions are on Split Rims Vs Solid Rims ( not sure what you call them - standard rims now )
On my first 4wd ( 1985 ) Split rims came as standard. It was easy to fix punctured tyres with SR in the bush. ( you just had to run for cover when pumping them back up )
I had no problems with traction ( due to the thinner tyre they took ). If I did get in trouble I would put chains on.
I have tried to change tyres on the rims I have on my 4wd now, and had a hell of a job. -- A lot harder than SR.
Why was there a change from Split Rims ?, and does anyone know what rims the Army uses ??
Thanks in advance.
PS/ Which is the best tyre removing tool on the market ???
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Split Rims.
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My personal preference is single piece/ tubeless rims.
With puctures on a Tubeless rim, you usually find that they are a slow leak and the foreign object self seals in the tyre which allows you to keep bumping the pressure back up for a period of time if you need to. With a Splitty, they go down real fast and need to be fixed to pump back up.
There is also a greater heat build up between tyre and tube in splitty's aswell. This leads to faster tyre wear and can also contribute to the 'carbon balls' that develop in tubes (turn into leaks).
Tubeless tyre/rim combos aren't any more difficult to change than a splitty, once you understand how the rim works. Breaking the beads on a split rim can be just as difficult as a Tubeless.
All you have to do is make sure you work within the well on the rim when fitting and stripping a tyre and slippery the beads up with a little soapy water (spray bottle work well).
I will offer a tyre changing tutorial if people would like.
May cost some people a lot of money (80LSY GQ, Bartso and a few others), but for all FOC.
Cheers,
Ryano
With puctures on a Tubeless rim, you usually find that they are a slow leak and the foreign object self seals in the tyre which allows you to keep bumping the pressure back up for a period of time if you need to. With a Splitty, they go down real fast and need to be fixed to pump back up.
There is also a greater heat build up between tyre and tube in splitty's aswell. This leads to faster tyre wear and can also contribute to the 'carbon balls' that develop in tubes (turn into leaks).
Tubeless tyre/rim combos aren't any more difficult to change than a splitty, once you understand how the rim works. Breaking the beads on a split rim can be just as difficult as a Tubeless.
All you have to do is make sure you work within the well on the rim when fitting and stripping a tyre and slippery the beads up with a little soapy water (spray bottle work well).
I will offer a tyre changing tutorial if people would like.
May cost some people a lot of money (80LSY GQ, Bartso and a few others), but for all FOC.Cheers,
Ryano
Yepp, a tyre changing tutorial would be good!
I think a lot of people could benefit from this....... even if it is only to have background knowledge.
( mate, I bought those MRF super traction tyres on GU split rims and wouldn't mind some more info on how to change them when the need arises ) You boys all managed to swap them pretty quickly given that I had them mounted on the wrong set of rims to begin with....
Appreciate it!
I think a lot of people could benefit from this....... even if it is only to have background knowledge.
( mate, I bought those MRF super traction tyres on GU split rims and wouldn't mind some more info on how to change them when the need arises ) You boys all managed to swap them pretty quickly given that I had them mounted on the wrong set of rims to begin with....
Appreciate it!
Road Ranger
:D
i dont mind the splits but when thay go flat its in a big hurry. and have never had trouble with traction from the 750x16 tyres except in sand can be hard going but never got bogged. and i have changed tons of tyres over the years and the split is far easyer to change in the bush. tyre levers and a high lift jack for a bead breaker
range rover & series one landy!
Once you learn the tricks to changing a tubeless, it's just as easy as a split. Tyre levers, spray and wipe, and a hi-lift/ tyrepliers.460cixy wrote:.... and i have changed tons of tyres over the years and the split is far easyer to change in the bush. tyre levers and a high lift jack for a bead breaker
Cheers,
Ryano
[Tubeless tyre/rim combos aren't any more difficult to change than a splitty, once you understand how the rim works. Breaking the beads on a split rim can be just as difficult as a Tubeless.
All you have to do is make sure you work within the well on the rim when fitting and stripping a tyre and slippery the beads up with a little soapy water (spray bottle work well).
I will offer a tyre changing tutorial if people would like. May cost some people a lot of money (80LSY GQ, Bartso and a few others), but for all FOC.
Cheers,
Ryano
Ryano, a "changing Tutorial" would be great.
With breaking the bead -- I have tried driving over the tyre ( ala - Malcolm Douglas) but that didnt work !
Ready and waiting Ryano !
[/quote]
All you have to do is make sure you work within the well on the rim when fitting and stripping a tyre and slippery the beads up with a little soapy water (spray bottle work well).
I will offer a tyre changing tutorial if people would like. May cost some people a lot of money (80LSY GQ, Bartso and a few others), but for all FOC.
Cheers,
Ryano
Ryano, a "changing Tutorial" would be great.
With breaking the bead -- I have tried driving over the tyre ( ala - Malcolm Douglas) but that didnt work !
Ready and waiting Ryano !
[/quote]
TheGatta wrote: With breaking the bead -- I have tried driving over the tyre ( ala - Malcolm Douglas) but that didnt work !
Me too, tried to break the bead on my 36" swampers, which had mud in the bead, but they wouldn't seperate.
Victor Bray and Brett Stevens use tyrepliers to change the burnout tyres on their burnout cars, and can do it really quickly. Although they are usually very clean and mud free, but they do cop a lot of heat and sort of glue themselves to the rim.
www.CVEPerformance.com
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Victor Bray and Brett Stevens use tyrepliers to change the burnout tyres on their burnout cars, and can do it really quickly. Although they are usually very clean and mud free, but they do cop a lot of heat and sort of glue themselves to the rim.[/quote]
Does anyone have a website / photo of these tyrepliers ?
Does anyone have a website / photo of these tyrepliers ?
My advise go and watch some one change a tyre by hand first, then give it a go once so u have a rough idea of how to do incase u ever have to, then pay the local tyre mob $20 to change and balance the rest of tyres for u. It is a shit of a job and i hate scratching my new rims with the tyre leavers 
Shane
this is what a high lift is forTheGatta wrote:chops wrote:One backyard way I've seen of breaking involved a scissor jack and a car with a tow ball.. but wheels under back car, sit scissor jack on top, start winding up under the towball.. will eventually break the bead
make sure you chock the front wheels just in case
Tried it -- didnt work.
range rover & series one landy!
460cixy wrote:this is what a high lift is forTheGatta wrote:chops wrote:One backyard way I've seen of breaking involved a scissor jack and a car with a tow ball.. but wheels under back car, sit scissor jack on top, start winding up under the towball.. will eventually break the bead
make sure you chock the front wheels just in case
Tried it -- didnt work.
Tried the high lift as well -- didnt work.
worked for a 205/65R15 under the back of an XD wagon..TheGatta wrote:chops wrote:One backyard way I've seen of breaking involved a scissor jack and a car with a tow ball.. but wheels under back car, sit scissor jack on top, start winding up under the towball.. will eventually break the bead
make sure you chock the front wheels just in case
Tried it -- didnt work.
1988 351W GQ wagon
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