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ultimate wheelbase?
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ultimate wheelbase?
whats the ultimate wheel base
no f#@k wits need reply
i wish to kno the pros and cons of different wheelbases
and the peoples oppinion of ideal
no f#@k wits need reply
i wish to kno the pros and cons of different wheelbases
and the peoples oppinion of ideal
Last edited by badger on Thu Mar 23, 2006 6:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
will depend on tyre size etc your running on your truck.
Last edited by small talk on Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1984 Hilux dualcab.
Ive got a FJ73 MWB cruiser, would like to think ive got the best of both worlds. Short wheel base seem to be like a jack rabbit lol where as the long wheel seems to wallow.
My opinion (hopefully appears to be a valid one as dont wanna be banned lol)
Jarrod
My opinion (hopefully appears to be a valid one as dont wanna be banned lol)
Jarrod
2008 Nissan Patrol Wagon ST 3.0TD
1994 LN106 Singlecab 2.8
1994 LN106 Singlecab 2.8
Whichever amount you choose, it is always a compromise. There really is no "ideal" wheelbase. "Midwheelbase" will have a combination of the best and worst of both short and long wheelbases. 105-115" seems too be acknowledged as a reasonable midwheelbase length and the best compromise. (SWB zook 88", GQ Patrol ~122" - correct me if I'm wrong)
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
a few mates who have the mwb conversion (102inch)on their GQ's wreckon they are just about right for comp work as they lose that edge of wanting to wheel stand on steep climbs but arnt too long to bottom out. For what you do, maybe a 100 inch or slightly more wheelbase will suffice with the size of your tyres.
Just my 2c,
Julian
Just my 2c,
Julian
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Short wheel base 90-100 is good for tight tracks and uneven ground (less chance of bellying out) and max 38" tyres, 110+ is good for 44+ tyres and steep climbs, 100-110 is best for average Joe that wants the best of both worlds, steep climbs and tight tracks.
That’s my view on the world of wheel base, but this Q is a bit like " Whats better manual or auto", or "Whats the best tyre" U are going to get so many different opinions.
That’s my view on the world of wheel base, but this Q is a bit like " Whats better manual or auto", or "Whats the best tyre" U are going to get so many different opinions.
Shane
Have a SWB GQ which I believe is something like 98". It's too short for some of the more scary climbs (I've backout out of a couple from fear factor and lack of front locker).
But the roughly ~130" stuff like LWB Defenders and GU's can struggle in the tight stuff, and it can also be pretty hard keeping both ends on a ridge on a twisty trail in a LWB.
In the end you would build for the type of work you want to do.
I'd love maybe another 6" of wheelbase though. I think about 105-110" would be ideal for the sort of stuff I do.
But the roughly ~130" stuff like LWB Defenders and GU's can struggle in the tight stuff, and it can also be pretty hard keeping both ends on a ridge on a twisty trail in a LWB.
In the end you would build for the type of work you want to do.
I'd love maybe another 6" of wheelbase though. I think about 105-110" would be ideal for the sort of stuff I do.
I've found 100" to be a perfect combo with 35's, esp if you can keep the truck low.
It rarely feels like it wants to go over backwards, but it also dosen't bottom out very often.
It rarely feels like it wants to go over backwards, but it also dosen't bottom out very often.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
Re: ultimate wheelbase?
105"badger wrote:whats the ultimate wheel base
no f#@k wits need reply
i wish to kno the pros and cons of different wheelbases
and the peoples oppinion of ideal
I reckon the ultimate wheel base is one that you can change on the go...
...as in a winch on the rear diff, pulling the front diff backwards, whilst you gain a bit of height. Got it all sorted out on me tube buggy plans.
Or shove some hydraulic rams as rear trailing arms to pull/push the rear diff. Simple.
...as in a winch on the rear diff, pulling the front diff backwards, whilst you gain a bit of height. Got it all sorted out on me tube buggy plans.
Or shove some hydraulic rams as rear trailing arms to pull/push the rear diff. Simple.
Bushies: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5560/ http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5561/
Lightforce HID conversion stuff: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5551/
Lightforce HID conversion stuff: http://www.angelfire.com/on4/bushy5551/
I see your 117" and raise you to 118 1/2"83 lux wrote:i think the best WB for me is 117''
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I've been thinking about this (because it beats thinking about more important issues
) and I'm wondering if there's a few basic guidelines?
For instance, ramp-over angle is probably important, which is affected by clearance under the belly/chassis rails (rather than diff clearance) and also relates to tyre size.
Short wheelbase, small tyres could have same ramp-over as longer wheelbase and larger tyres, but would have smaller clearance.
That's OK - 'coz I'll just lift my shorty to the same clearance, and I'll have BETTER ramp-over.
But then it may be too pitchy/unstable?
Hang on. Instead of lifting the suspension, I'll chop the guards and whack in some MASSIVE tyres!
I've now got the big clearance, got an EXCELLENT ramp-over angle
and I DON'T have the huge suspension lift! But it's still almost as tall as it is long, and looks like a full-scale promotion for next season's hot new kiddy toy.
So I'm guessing PROPORTION is an important word here - but what works and what doesn't?
For the record, I've got 33" tyres on a wheelbase which is supposedly 95" - and I think it would be too short for competition work. For touring it's a little pitchy, but for the tracks to which I limit myself (such as the medium/hard tracks around LCMP) it's a pretty good package.
Cheers,
Scott
For instance, ramp-over angle is probably important, which is affected by clearance under the belly/chassis rails (rather than diff clearance) and also relates to tyre size.
Short wheelbase, small tyres could have same ramp-over as longer wheelbase and larger tyres, but would have smaller clearance.
That's OK - 'coz I'll just lift my shorty to the same clearance, and I'll have BETTER ramp-over.
But then it may be too pitchy/unstable?
Hang on. Instead of lifting the suspension, I'll chop the guards and whack in some MASSIVE tyres!
So I'm guessing PROPORTION is an important word here - but what works and what doesn't?
For the record, I've got 33" tyres on a wheelbase which is supposedly 95" - and I think it would be too short for competition work. For touring it's a little pitchy, but for the tracks to which I limit myself (such as the medium/hard tracks around LCMP) it's a pretty good package.
Cheers,
Scott
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