Just wondering if there is anything that should definitely be looked at when buying a used 4x4,
say cruiser or patrol wagon? Any tips on how to tell a good buy from a bush bashed bomb other
than the obvious?
Cheers!
Moonman
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What to look for? - Inspecting a 4x4
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Just keep in though with the RACQ inspection, they will find a list of faults as long as my arm wrong even with a brand new vehicle off the showroom floor.
Super picky and most sellers will tell you to jam an inspection by RACQ cause they know this fact.
My 2c
Super picky and most sellers will tell you to jam an inspection by RACQ cause they know this fact.
My 2c
GU 4.2 TD Garrett BB Hi-flow, M8274 + Bells & Whistles with plenty of fruit still on the list!
[b][color=red]\ m / ( > . < ) \ m /[/color][/b]
[b][color=red]\ m / ( > . < ) \ m /[/color][/b]
They are very picky but that is what you are paying for - it is pretty easy to work out the minor niggles and the major problems, if I was looking at a car and they wouldn't let it go for inspection I would walk away - thousands of cars out there.benhl wrote:Just keep in though with the RACQ inspection, they will find a list of faults as long as my arm wrong even with a brand new vehicle off the showroom floor.
Super picky and most sellers will tell you to jam an inspection by RACQ cause they know this fact.
My 2c
Tom
have a browse through the respective forums and see what people are generally having problems with on their trucks...
the couple of bigger ones are cracked chassis' in and around steering and suspension componants. and it might sound obvious but lock in the hubs and make sure the transfer case/hubs work too, its caught people out before.
the couple of bigger ones are cracked chassis' in and around steering and suspension componants. and it might sound obvious but lock in the hubs and make sure the transfer case/hubs work too, its caught people out before.
yeh but do te test the gearbox auto etc and do they do a full compression test ?RaginRover wrote:They are very picky but that is what you are paying for - it is pretty easy to work out the minor niggles and the major problems, if I was looking at a car and they wouldn't let it go for inspection I would walk away - thousands of cars out there.benhl wrote:Just keep in though with the RACQ inspection, they will find a list of faults as long as my arm wrong even with a brand new vehicle off the showroom floor.
Super picky and most sellers will tell you to jam an inspection by RACQ cause they know this fact.
My 2c
Tom
Id suggest a Nrma,RACQ style of check,sure they check oil leaks,paint,interior,They also check suspension,look for rust. Take the vehicle for a drive .
Its the same as a pre-purchase inspection on a house,sure they will find things (thats what there paid to do).
They are money well spent.
Its the same as a pre-purchase inspection on a house,sure they will find things (thats what there paid to do).
They are money well spent.
2001 100 series stock as a rock
Everybody keeps plugging the RACQ/NRMA type inspection. I too used to think this way, but do I have a story for you!
This is FACT, it happended to ME, and is not an URBAN MYTH!
A few years ago I bought a very low mileage Jeep, only a few years old (I know, it's a Jeep thing!). Anyway, I was buying the car from a wholesaler recomended to me. The wholesaler only operated from Monday to Friday, and didn't always actually take possession of the car. So I gave him my requirements, he contacted me when what I wanted came up and I went to look at the car. It was Friday, I work in a shirt and tie, and although I took the car for a good drive I couldn't crawl under it to have a good look - so I called the RACQ and booked in an inspection.
RACQ did the inspection, and the inspector called to advise the car was finished. I asked him a few questions, but specifically "does it look like the car has had much beach work?" To which he responded - "I would say it has definitely been off road as there is plenty of dust on the components underneath, but I couldn't see any rust spots or build up of salt residue".
So, on the advice and the report I bought the car. Got it home on the weekend and decided to do my own quick check to see what I could find. I found the following:
- minor surface rust on some of the engine compenents
- rust HOLES behind both front wheels, holes that actually pentrated the surface
So after 2 sleepless nights, I contacted RACQ first thing Monday moring and explained what I found and that I was not happy. They arranged for a field service guy to come and have a look and he confirmed that they were there, and that they should have been found during the inspection. He suggested I contact the inspection centre and he would do the same and submit a report.
I advised RACQ that I no longer wanted the car and that had they done their job properly then I would not have bought the car. They suggested an independent inspection by a "rust expert". This was done (at RACQ cost), and the following was noted:
- rust on most engine components
- rust holes in floor behind two front wheels
- rust in turret
- various other areas of concern
I won't bore you with detail, suffice the say that by the week's end I had my money back, inspection fee refunded, stamp duty on the trasnfer refunded and a loan car from the RACQ for a period of 14 days. I was $0 out of pocket.
RACQ on the other hand owned a very nice, but rust riddled, Jeep!
My point here - DEFINITELY recommend an inspection, but get it done by a local and trusted mechanic. $170 RACQ fee is about 3 hours labour at most mechanics, and they will actually check the major mechanical parts and do most checks you want (check oils, compression test, etc, etc). If it is someone you know, they may even let you be there when it is done and explain any concerns in person whilst actually pointing them out on the car while it is in front of you. Then you can make up your own mind if they are major or not.
RACQ = "sausage factory" working to a set timeframe and a set list (tick and flick).
This is FACT, it happended to ME, and is not an URBAN MYTH!
A few years ago I bought a very low mileage Jeep, only a few years old (I know, it's a Jeep thing!). Anyway, I was buying the car from a wholesaler recomended to me. The wholesaler only operated from Monday to Friday, and didn't always actually take possession of the car. So I gave him my requirements, he contacted me when what I wanted came up and I went to look at the car. It was Friday, I work in a shirt and tie, and although I took the car for a good drive I couldn't crawl under it to have a good look - so I called the RACQ and booked in an inspection.
RACQ did the inspection, and the inspector called to advise the car was finished. I asked him a few questions, but specifically "does it look like the car has had much beach work?" To which he responded - "I would say it has definitely been off road as there is plenty of dust on the components underneath, but I couldn't see any rust spots or build up of salt residue".
So, on the advice and the report I bought the car. Got it home on the weekend and decided to do my own quick check to see what I could find. I found the following:
- minor surface rust on some of the engine compenents
- rust HOLES behind both front wheels, holes that actually pentrated the surface
So after 2 sleepless nights, I contacted RACQ first thing Monday moring and explained what I found and that I was not happy. They arranged for a field service guy to come and have a look and he confirmed that they were there, and that they should have been found during the inspection. He suggested I contact the inspection centre and he would do the same and submit a report.
I advised RACQ that I no longer wanted the car and that had they done their job properly then I would not have bought the car. They suggested an independent inspection by a "rust expert". This was done (at RACQ cost), and the following was noted:
- rust on most engine components
- rust holes in floor behind two front wheels
- rust in turret
- various other areas of concern
I won't bore you with detail, suffice the say that by the week's end I had my money back, inspection fee refunded, stamp duty on the trasnfer refunded and a loan car from the RACQ for a period of 14 days. I was $0 out of pocket.
RACQ on the other hand owned a very nice, but rust riddled, Jeep!
My point here - DEFINITELY recommend an inspection, but get it done by a local and trusted mechanic. $170 RACQ fee is about 3 hours labour at most mechanics, and they will actually check the major mechanical parts and do most checks you want (check oils, compression test, etc, etc). If it is someone you know, they may even let you be there when it is done and explain any concerns in person whilst actually pointing them out on the car while it is in front of you. Then you can make up your own mind if they are major or not.
RACQ = "sausage factory" working to a set timeframe and a set list (tick and flick).
____________________
Dan
[quote="v840"]I bet you're the kind of person, when you're railing someone in the ass
you don't even have the common courtesy to give them a reach around! [/quote]
Dan
[quote="v840"]I bet you're the kind of person, when you're railing someone in the ass
you don't even have the common courtesy to give them a reach around! [/quote]
I agree totally.gu4800 wrote:DEFINITELY recommend an inspection, but get it done by a local and trusted mechanic.
A mate of mine who was a panelbeater used to repair the odd "repairable writeoff" and then sell it.
He sold a holden ute, that had had the whole front end replaced (everything forward of the engine mounts). As well as that he had fitted front guards from a different model (modified to suit) as he couldn't get the right ones. The prospective buyer got an RACQ inspection, and the inspector didn't even pick that there had been any accident damage, or the guard swap.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
I had an onsite inspection performed by the RAA, because Dodgy Brothers Car Company wouldn't allow the vehicle to go to a mechanic for an inspection. Received a very comprehensive report with which I was happy, and bought the car despite the long list of reported faults. 
No, they didn't do a "traditional" compression test, but a "cranking current test" recorded the current through the starter as each cylinder passed over TDC on its compression stroke. It doesn't give outright figures, but will detect one cylinder lower than the others. If they're ALL stuffed, you'll never know...
Scott
No, they didn't do a "traditional" compression test, but a "cranking current test" recorded the current through the starter as each cylinder passed over TDC on its compression stroke. It doesn't give outright figures, but will detect one cylinder lower than the others. If they're ALL stuffed, you'll never know...
Scott
NEVER confuse a roadworthy certificate with an inspection. A roadworthy is simply that - a statement of roadworthiness. They only test/inspect items of a safety nature.81 rangie wrote:Another handy hint is to never trust a roadworthy, ive been caught out on that one before. The guy selling the car got a roadworthy on the car at tjm on hartnett drive in seaford/frankston and being a large outlet i didn't suspect a dodgy roady, but ended up being a heap of shit
For example, a whining diff is NOT a roadworthy item and the car would pass a roadworthy cert. It would not, however pass an inspection (at least without a report on that item).
____________________
Dan
[quote="v840"]I bet you're the kind of person, when you're railing someone in the ass
you don't even have the common courtesy to give them a reach around! [/quote]
Dan
[quote="v840"]I bet you're the kind of person, when you're railing someone in the ass
you don't even have the common courtesy to give them a reach around! [/quote]
All very good points.gu4800 wrote:
NEVER confuse a roadworthy certificate with an inspection. A roadworthy is simply that - a statement of roadworthiness. They only test/inspect items of a safety nature.
For example, a whining diff is NOT a roadworthy item and the car would pass a roadworthy cert. It would not, however pass an inspection (at least without a report on that item).
AFAIK, during a roadworthy/safety cert inspection, only one wheel is required to be removed to check the brakes. Also, as long as the engine doesn't leak oil and passes emissions, it will pass a roadworthy regardless of condition.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
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