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What are you running at the moment? Something along the lines of oils sold for "older" engines- eg. BP Corse (or whatever it's called) could be worth a look.
It's possible you might have a oil pump problem too.
Sometimes it can be the oil pump is becoming inefficient. This means that when revs increase, the oil pump spins fast enough to move oil to the desired places, hence the light going out.
I dont mean to sound silly but have you got the right amount of oil in it?
20w/50 seems fine... shouldnt have any problems
I would find that leak quick smart and see if this problem then goes away.. how do you know you have the oil leak??
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
MMM.. have u actully looked for the oil leak?? think u mite have oil leak just behind the crankshaft pulley, if u peek in between the pulley and the sump, u mite be able to see the leak there? In my experence, with the oil light flashing while idle, gone when revving, yep, oil pump on the way out
I'm not sure how much the oil pump is
try a new sender first, it's the cheapest. had then to this before. could be even be a bit of crap on the end of it. just with more revs which makes more pressure it reads it.
This happened with a buggered oil pump I had and the real problem is that the threshold for the light is really quite low and even at revs, the pressure might be just enough to make the light go out but not really enough to be any good for the engine.
You can try another sender but given the light goes out at revs, it is not liekly. A cheaper option may be something like a $20 supercheap oil pressure guage which will tell you the full story about the oil pump and be cheaper than a new sender? They are easy enough to use as they screw into where the sender goes.
chev28 wrote:A cheaper option may be something like a $20 supercheap oil pressure guage which will tell you the full story about the oil pump and be cheaper than a new sender? They are easy enough to use as they screw into where the sender goes.
Excellent idea! Just fit it in place temporarily and see what it reads.
"Mechanical" ones require an oil filled line to be plumbed into the cabin directly to the gauge (ie. they can be dangerous if that line ruptures!!! I don't know if they are legal or not either, but as you're only interested in testing pressure....)
"Electronic" ones use a sender unit (sensor) that is screwed directly into the engine and it sends a voltage back to the gauge that is proportional to the oil pressure - ie. a lot safer but probably dearer too.
If you ad a oil pressure guage check the manual available i the WARFS menu it has the corect oil pressures for idle and revved. Another thing you may want to consider is the main journal bearings, the oil pump first sends oil to the main bearings before heading to the top part of the motor and if the bearings are worn enough you could be loosing pressure there and a new oil pump may not work. So while you replace the oil pump or maybe before you replace the water pump inspect those main journal bearings ( connecting rod bearings ), and remember to put them exactly where they were. If you are getting a chattering sound from the engine I would not drive it until you fix the problem as a loud chattering is a sign that you are not getting enough oil to the valves because of the low oil pressure and much more damage could occur as a result. Well I hope you have good luck in fixing the problem and I hope I was of some help.
Those guages are more expensive than the ones you find at supercheap. You should pick up one of the mechanical type (oil line) for $20. This is just for a reading and once the problem is identified, you can go back to the light.
I would get one of these cheapos from supercheap (or repco or autoone, etc) as they come with the fittings required. Naturally, as baj is suggeting, you could try removing the existing sender first and check it for crap and grit and put it back before driving down the road to pick up a cheapo guage for testing.
Do you find lately that stuff on Ebay is going for max $$ ?
chev28 wrote:
Do you find lately that stuff on Ebay is going for max $$ ?
I just posted those as examples- strange how Ebay always features high in Google searches, isn't it? If the Ebay price is cheap then the freight is generally over the top from my experiences; and far too many "Buy Now" items with no low auction price.
It's going crazy. People must have too much money burining a hole in their pocket. On the other side, you have heaps of vendors selling things at or near retail anyway.
I know these were only examples to show Luke what we meant and I think they show the concept well. If he were going to permanently mount the guage, he might want one of those fancier ones.
Remember with your oil light warning, that it will usualyy only iluminate at really low oil pressure, like 5psi or something, so even when its out, you may still have low oil pressure. Best to fit a reliable gauge, then you always know what it is doing.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Hey Luke, I haven't been on this site for ages, but I might be able to help considering I used to own your car...
I think that oil pressure sensor might have a small leak. I had the same problem. Once revs drop down to idle at lights etc and thinking the worst like you are now. My mechanic was suposed to change it when doing a service, but I don't think it ever hapenned. It is on the front of the block I think, just near the oil filter. I can remember it having a leak either from the sensor being damaged or from the thread it is skrewed into. Give it a shot.
1994 Feroza SX II 2 inch suspension lift, 2.5 inch body lift, 31 inch Pro Comp X-terains, extractors and sports exhaust.
If you have access to an air compressor that has a gauge and regulator - your can remove the sender and test it with compressed air. Its simply a diaphram switch and will work with oil or air.
Check the manual for the desired operating point and use the system above to check it operates. A multimeter between the sender case and terminal should show closed with no pressure and go open at the operating point.
Dont forget that an Appluase HD engine is exactly the same so you may be able to get a second hand one.....
The sensor was damaged and my mechanic was able to replace it no probs!
Glad it was not an oil pump issue
Have just finished making some water tanks for it using rectangular pvc down pipe...mounted them on their skinny edge between the footstep and the bottom sill. (Yay for body lifts )...
Will post pics soon.
Thanks for all the help and advice in this thread fellas!
Luke
[url=http://www.aussiebowhunter.com][b]Founder TBGA - September 29, 2001 - Australia's Premier Bowhunting Site[/b][/url]
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