Turboing a 80 series

[maxdog204]

Guys,

I have a 95 DX diesel 80 series, I was wondering what mods to the engine would I have to do to bolt a factory 80 series turbo on. I have everything except the injector pump, will the standard pump handle the turbo??

Max

[80diesel4play]

Yup.

Need - new exhaust - preferably 3" no muffler.
Bolt it on - maybe buy a boost compensator - that will make it nicer to driver for those behind you.
and a Pyro if you're towing.

Cheers!

[Toy80Diesel]

Umm, what about the oil pipe for the turbo that comes from the sump?

How about inspecting the bearings when you take the sump out to install the oil pickup?

I dont have the turbo (yet) but these are things I'm looking into myself...

Pyro! Yes, thats a good suggestion!

[80diesel4play]

[Toy80Diesel
Umm, what about the oil pipe for the turbo that comes from the sump?

Goes without syaing, thats the dump pipe. You also need to get a pickup made from your oil pressure sensor to feed oil to the turbo.

How about inspecting the bearings when you take the sump out to install the oil pickup?

Depends on Km's - if its a 1hz that has a good history(oil/filter every 5000k's) then you should be fine with the shells. You don;t need to take teh sump off for the return line at all.

I dont have the turbo (yet) but these are things I'm looking into myself...

Pyro! Yes, thats a good suggestion!

Mandatory - EGT will mean you can tune and/or adjust your driving to suit the tune

Also - high flow injectors when you get them serviced - just different nozzles - this gets around any major pump work.

Intercooler - well worth the muck around as the cooler the inlet charge the more reliable the engine wil be.

With a 1hz - around 10-11psi is the max boost to run with Intercooler - the precombustion chambers are restrictive and tend to get very brittle once high psi in forced in.. 8-9psi without intercooling.

Hope this is more specific.

[Toy80Diesel]

thanks 80diesel4play, all good info. 'specially about hi-flowing injectors.. but would this mean overfueling at idle?

I've also noticed the turbo bolts directly onto the stock manifold via some sort of adapter in between to mate the two flanges together. Does anyone make/sell the adapter or parts to make it? Apart from that of course you'd need the turbo and relevant pipe work, & oil pipes.etc.

If so, this would probably make the whole turbo conversion alot cheaper than current kits out there.

Is this making sense? hope so...

[ForceAnt]

Im making a turbo manifold for mine. it will crap on the factory rubbish as that is all they are, bolted onto standard manifolds. Also think about the air condition pipes, on the turbo models they route a bit different.

You wont need to touch the bearings unless u go over 7/8psi. but i would anyway. You dont really need an intercooler as diesels have a lower exhaust gas therefore not heating the inlet charge.
Also the dump pipe is the exhaust pipe bolted to the turbo.
cheers Anthony

[Simo63]

If you do end up turboing your 1HZ, then do yourself a favour and replace the big end bearings regardless. The 1HZ is basically the same as the 1HDT factory Turbo and the bearings will cop a hiding with the extra grunt produced by the motor when turbo'd.

I have had a few TD80's (all factory turbos) and I always replace the big end bearings as a matter of caution ... only costs a couple hundred bucks and well worth it. Some of the bearings I have pulled out have already been on the way out and have shown signs of the metal "picking up".

Just my 2 cents worth.

Cheers
Simo

[Toy80Diesel]

Im making a turbo manifold for mine. it will crap on the factory rubbish as that is all they are, bolted onto standard manifolds. Also think about the air condition pipes, on the turbo models they route a bit different.

Would you consider making some to sell?
Will yours replace the whole manifold for better airflow?
Possibly to spool up the turbo a bit quicker (i.e. less lag)??

I'll go and take a look at these a/cond pipes you mention.

[dow50r]

Yes the factory turbo will fit you will need to get some fittings for the oil line in as the factory block has a special offtake, and you will need to source pressure from the pressure switch. As said earlier, you will also need to take the sump off and run a fitting in there for return oil...
Your pump will do, just get it fueling properly, and enjoy the extra torque....if you go all out on manifolds, you will be disappointed....the 1hz wont make heaps of power...you will chase your tail....now if you put the whole hdt in where the hz was........you could extract 600nm from it with an intercooler.....

[Surfection]

You dont really need an intercooler as diesels have a lower exhaust gas therefore not heating the inlet charge.

You're a comedian champ !!!

[ForceAnt]

You dont really need an intercooler as diesels have a lower exhaust gas therefore not heating the inlet charge.

You're a comedian champ !!!

I

f im wrong, please tell us why!!!

[Ley269]

Having a lower exhaust gas temperature in a diesel has no effect on the heat generated by the air being compressed in the manifold.

[Surfection]

You dont really need an intercooler as diesels have a lower exhaust gas therefore not heating the inlet charge.

You're a comedian champ !!!

I

f im wrong, please tell us why!!!

Diesel or petrol we're talking turbo's here. As you know a turbo is propelled by exhaust air which due to the combustion process is very hot. This heat is then transfered to the inlet air which is also passing through the turbo. This hot inlet air then enters the motor where it enjoys the suck squeeze bang blow (don't we all!!) and the whole process starts again. Now, I hope you will agree that cold air is more dense than hot air, so when an intercooler is introduced into a turbo charged intake system it cools the incoming air. This cool, dense air then enters the motor where it creates a bigger bang, creating more go go from your motor and making more smiles on your dials. I hope this helps.

[80diesel4play]

thanks 80diesel4play, all good info. 'specially about hi-flowing injectors.. but would this mean overfueling at idle? NO - the injector can handle more flow - at idle it gets the same fuel you prescrive it.

I've also noticed the turbo bolts directly onto the stock manifold via some sort of adapter in between to mate the two flanges together. Does anyone make/sell the adapter or parts to make it? Apart from that of course you'd need the turbo and relevant pipe work, & oil pipes.etc.

Yep - you can buy a manifold to suit or get one made - not much - just mostly thinking it out properley.

If so, this would probably make the whole turbo conversion alot cheaper than current kits out there. Yes - but at the end of the day allow $3k inc everything - I know it sounds trvial but you do get what you pay for!

Is this making sense? hope so...

[ForceAnt]

Sorry, i just read my post in your reply and it sounds wrong. What u say is right. I meant to say not heat it as much as say a petrol....

[dumbdunce]

agreee don't bother building a manifold, it is a waste of time and $ and the return just isn't there. it takes about 2 hours to build an adaptor to bolt just about any turbo to the standard 1HZ exhaust manifold, which incidentally doesn't flow too badly.

boost compensator is a waste if you're not boosting over about 10 - 12psi and even then only worthwhile if you're too lazy to change your oil every 5000km.

intercooling is good. and the bigger the intercooler the better. contrary to popular belief, a big intercooler does not contribute to turbo lag, in fact it can help eliminate lag especially between gears. it's not just heat soaking from the exhaust side of the turbo that heats the inlet air, but also the very act of squeezing air makes it hot (think electric tyre compressor). Turbochargers are nowhere near 100% efficient so any effort from the exhaust that doesn't go into compressing the inlet air, goes into heating the inlet air up. it's good to get that heat out before the air gets past the inlet valves - denser air means a greater air charge, and therefore you can put more fuel in, too, and the greater the difference between the temperature at the inlet and the peak combustion temperature, the greater the efficiency of the engine. this means more power - yes its true, if you intercool and adjust nothing else there is, under some conditions, a 'free' power gain.