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Vitara Engine mount + other Q's

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Posts: 1087
Joined: Thu May 06, 2004 9:37 am
Location: Darwin N.T.

Vitara Engine mount + other Q's

Post by SiKiD_01 »

well, i pulled my engine and gearbox out yesterday, only to find....

the right hand side engine mount rubber has seperated. i'm assuming its because when accelerating hard the engine twists over.

anyway, where can i get another one from? or does anyone have one spare? or can i make up some of my own?

also, my throw out bearing for the clutch fell apart, and was missing half of the ball bearings.... why does it do this? the clutch kit isnt even a year old.

and is there any special way of changing the front and rear main oil seals on the G16A block? will i have to take the head off? and how do i know if there's anything else that might need changing? such as bearings, mainly crank?

and my dizzy is leaking oil also, are there any particular ways of changing the seals? or O rings? and how many? i blelieve there is 2? but still not sure.

thanks for any help.
1995 Vitara:
stock standard


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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 8:58 pm
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Re: Vitara Engine mount + other Q's

Post by mud4b »

SiKiD_01 wrote:well, i pulled my engine and gearbox out yesterday, only to find....

the right hand side engine mount rubber has seperated. i'm assuming its because when accelerating hard the engine twists over.

anyway, where can i get another one from? or does anyone have one spare? or can i make up some of my own? ...I SHOULD HAVE SOME HERE.. GIVE ME A BUZZ.

also, my throw out bearing for the clutch fell apart, and was missing half of the ball bearings.... why does it do this? the clutch kit isnt even a year old. ... YOU MIGHT HAVE A WORN BEARING SUPPORT (THE ALLOY SLEEVE THAT THE BEARING RUNS ON) IF SO IT CAUSES THE BEARING TO TILT JUST AS IT HAS SLIGHT PRESSURE AS IT JUST TOUCHES THE PRESSURE PLATE, CAUSING IT TO TOUCH UNEVEN THEN EVEN WHEN THE PRESSURE IS ON.

and is there any special way of changing the front and rear main oil seals on the G16A block? will i have to take the head off? and how do i know if there's anything else that might need changing? such as bearings, mainly crank?.. DO YOUR CRANK (MAIN BEARINGS) MAKE A KNOCKING NOISE? IF SO REPLACE THEM. THE TIMING COVER, BELT,TENSIONER,CAM PULLEY, CRANK PULLEY NEED TO COME OFF TO CHANGE THESE SEALS.
IT IS NOT TOO HARD. MARK YOUR BELT WITH A WHITE MARKER PEN IN SEVERAL DIFFERENT PLACES AND MARK THE PULLEYS AT THE SAME SPOT BEFORE REMOVING THE BELT. DO NOT MOVE YOUR CAM OR CRANK ONCE THE BELT IS OFF.THIS ALLOWS YOU TO KEEP THE TIMING CORRECT IF FITTED THE SAME WAY AS YOU HAD TAKEN IT OFF. YOU CAN NOW GET TO THE SEALS. NO NEED TO PULL THE HEAD. THESE SEALS ARE THE SAME BETWEEN ALL G BLOCKS AND HEADS.

and my dizzy is leaking oil also, are there any particular ways of changing the seals? or O rings? and how many? i blelieve there is 2? but still not sure. ....THERE IS 2 O-RING SEALS. MARK YOUR ROTOR BUTTON WHERE IT SITS THEN MARK THE HOUSING INLINE WITH WHERE THE BUTTON IS FACING. PULL THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT. YOU WILL SEE YOUR FIRST SEAL ON THE SHAFT.

REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING SUPPORT, BEHIND THIS YOU WILL SEE YOUR 2ND SEAL. REPLACE WITH SOME SILICON ON BOTH SIDES OF THE SEAL(THEY NEVER DO IT FROM FACTORY AND THIS IS WHERE IT GOES WRONG) REPLACE THE HOUSING. THEN OIL THE SMALL O-RING ON THE DISTRIBUTOR CASE THAN REFIT LINING THE ROTOR BUTTON UP WITH THE MARK ON THE HOUSING.

YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK THIS WITH A TIMING LIGHT AFTER IT IS ALL PUT BACK TOGETHER.

thanks for any help.
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