Stripped exhaust manifold bolt

Post by **fool_injected** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 7:53 am

Well its not actually stripped
Whats happened is on #4 cyl the rear stud srews into a 'bubble' casting in the head
The little bubble has split so now the stud just pulls out

What is the best (easiest) way to refix the stud
Brazing, silver solder, I've heard araldite will hold at temps, is there some magic loctite stuff?

Alloyhead
Prefer to fix in situ. Don't wanna pull the head off,

Cheers
Wayne

Post by **mickyd555** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:12 am

it can be done, im just trying to think of the name of the "fixer-uperer". Go to Repco and tell them, they will have it for you.

Post by **plowy** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:23 am

repco do have a product called q bond
its ultra fast super glue and also has 2 different powders in its kit for different purposes
they have a demo block in store were the powder n glue mix has been drilled n tapped

a small kit is about $30

a big kit is about $ 60-70

test it out before useing it for the first time on a job and DON'T get any on you as it drys in 10sec rock hard

Post by **fool_injected** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:57 am

Thanks guys, think I will go for a run down to Repco

Website · Post by **murcod** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:55 am

25% off today and Monday too!

http://www.repcoshop.com.au/

Post by **Hoonz** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 1:38 pm

heli coil kit perhaps?

Post by **-Scott-** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 2:09 pm

Hoonz wrote:heli coil kit perhaps?

Good thinking! After the chemi-bond stuff (whatever) drill and tap for a helicoil, to give the thread some strength.

Scott

Post by **fool_injected** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 3:31 pm

Heli coil will not hold as the boss is split and will just keep opening up

Tried Q-Bond, mad stuff. Instructions say 10sec cure more like 3 seconds.
Did not work as the hole faces towards the ground so the powerd just falls out

So I got a two part Loctite kit specificaly for engine blocks and high temps
Holding well but I will leave it overnight to ensure it cures

If thes font work its back to the Q-Bond
Ramp the driners side up so the hold points up.
Drill out 10mm
Fill with Q-bond
Drill and tap 8mm (?) for the stud

Hope the epoxy works, just got not apply too much torque

Thanks for the advice guys, I'm sure the Q-bond will come in handy later

Edit:
Q-Bond $18.75 (Two glue, one black plastic powder and one grey aluminuim powder bottles)
Loctie Two part $19.50 (Part A, Part B and Release agent)
Both from Repco with 25% off today

Post by **hudson44** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 7:51 pm

There's an epoxy named "Devcon" that can be baught at repco. Its like a liquid steel. Have used it to repair engine blocks that have corroded near a cylinder and has worked a treat. Only difference is the drying time is about 24 hours. Q Bond is pretty awesome stuff tho if you can manage to keep the powder in the working area!!

Gabe

Post by **fool_injected** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 12:23 pm

UPDATE:
Q-Bond not easy to use due to location
Loctite pulled out after a monor knock (probally should not af used release agent and made it permanate)

Devcon, ah I remember that stuff
No spares parts shops ouround here stock it
Repco no longer stock it
So it will have to wait until I get to wholesalers on Tuesday

Starting to really irk me

Cheers
Wayne

Post by **hudson44** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 3:43 pm

fool_injected wrote:UPDATE:
Q-Bond not easy to use due to location

Just roll the car on her side!

Post by **EXHAUSTFIX** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 7:30 pm

hey instead of trying all these different glue things
fix it properly
first remove broken stud thrn drill and tap it to take a recoil if you have a crack in the head drill a small hole into the crack longways or down the length of it and get liquid steel and glue a dowl pin in the crack and iff possiable when dry after 24 hours run a weld along the crack with the wright welder and material
ross

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Stripped exhaust manifold bolt

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