Got my car a couple of months ago and the cruise control does not work. Got the workshop manual and read up about it....had a look under my bonnet and the vacuum hoses were not even connected..They were perished at the ends so i shortened them, and reconnected but still not working...I took off the actuater thing attached to the throttle and it seems to be holding a seal very well and im wondering what would the next step be.
Should i replace all the vacuum hose??
Is there anyway i can test the pump near the airbox to see if its actually working?? Like attach a hose to it and go for a drive and see if it sucks when i turn on the cruise control??
Any help would be appreciated
Marc
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Disco Series cruise control
Moderator: Micka
Disco Series cruise control
Looking for a car
I've just been reading through the rave manual and I'm guessing you've got a diesel. The pump is non servicable like the actuator so if it is stuffed you'll need a new one. There is no test procedure listed for it though. I havn't read how to test vacuum with anything other than a vacuum gauge. You could always try something dodgy like feeding a tube into the cab and seeing if it sucks or pulls up water into the tube. Just don't bugger the pump trying. I have read that the tdi cruise is quite unresponsive so when its activated it will drop speed then slowly build it up as vacuum increases. Could this be the problem?
Theres still a number of possible electrical faults too but all I can find out about it is to check with the testbook so that means a trip to landrover and $$$. Theres the switches that can go too like the brake pedal switch, neutral lockout (or clutch peal for maual) and the driver operated switches.
As a low cost fix I would try the hoses but after that it gets more complicated. Im not looking foward to mine going. When it does though I might just take it to the dealer and let them plug in the computer. To many things that can go wrong for my liking.
Theres still a number of possible electrical faults too but all I can find out about it is to check with the testbook so that means a trip to landrover and $$$. Theres the switches that can go too like the brake pedal switch, neutral lockout (or clutch peal for maual) and the driver operated switches.
As a low cost fix I would try the hoses but after that it gets more complicated. Im not looking foward to mine going. When it does though I might just take it to the dealer and let them plug in the computer. To many things that can go wrong for my liking.
-Scott- wrote:Isn't it a bit early in the day to be pissed?
Well, I don't know which series disco you are actually talking about, so I'll assume its a series one. Firstly, trace the vacuum line from the actuator to the T-piece behind or next to your washer bottle (assuming V8 also). Grab a pair of needlenose pliers, and then pull the acuator diaphragm right in by hand, then clamp off the vacuum line coming out of the passenger side of that T-piece (the one going to the pump). Release the diaphragm, and it should stay where it is until you release the pliers. If it slowly lets itself back out, there is a split in one of the lines somewhere. It sounds like you've already trimmed the ends off at least at the actuator, and possibly at the T-piece, so the next thing is to stick your head up under your brake pedal, and check that the vacuum line is connected to the switch on your brake pedal, and is not split - they do often fall off there. The other place to check is where the vacuum line goes through the firewall, its common for them to perish there.
If your actuator does hold position, then its a computer, a steering wheel switch, or the little vac pump. I'd try lifting the vac pump out, running it with two wires off the battery, and join it straight to the actuator with a bit of hose......
If your actuator does hold position, then its a computer, a steering wheel switch, or the little vac pump. I'd try lifting the vac pump out, running it with two wires off the battery, and join it straight to the actuator with a bit of hose......
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
How do you check/replace the steering wheel switches?RangingRover wrote:Well, I don't know which series disco you are actually talking about, so I'll assume its a series one. Firstly, trace the vacuum line from the actuator to the T-piece behind or next to your washer bottle (assuming V8 also). Grab a pair of needlenose pliers, and then pull the acuator diaphragm right in by hand, then clamp off the vacuum line coming out of the passenger side of that T-piece (the one going to the pump). Release the diaphragm, and it should stay where it is until you release the pliers. If it slowly lets itself back out, there is a split in one of the lines somewhere. It sounds like you've already trimmed the ends off at least at the actuator, and possibly at the T-piece, so the next thing is to stick your head up under your brake pedal, and check that the vacuum line is connected to the switch on your brake pedal, and is not split - they do often fall off there. The other place to check is where the vacuum line goes through the firewall, its common for them to perish there.
If your actuator does hold position, then its a computer, a steering wheel switch, or the little vac pump. I'd try lifting the vac pump out, running it with two wires off the battery, and join it straight to the actuator with a bit of hose......
Warn - Dont leave home without it
F*@k - replied to this, and the browser crapped itself....
so, try again: To check the switches, you need firstly to locate your cruise ecu, which for a series 1 should be up behind the glovebox (push your hinges up and out through the gap so as to let the lid hang down fully). Its a small silver box, on the LH side. If there is more than one, I believe it will be the smallest, from memory. You need to unplug the loom from it, and probe the terminals in that plug on the loom, while you operate the switches (with ignition on). You should get a power signal at two seperate terminals, one from the set switch, and one from the reset switch.
I'm not too sure if you get a power signal from the brake switch, or whether it simply dumps the vacuum and thats it. I THINK it may be the latter.
so, try again: To check the switches, you need firstly to locate your cruise ecu, which for a series 1 should be up behind the glovebox (push your hinges up and out through the gap so as to let the lid hang down fully). Its a small silver box, on the LH side. If there is more than one, I believe it will be the smallest, from memory. You need to unplug the loom from it, and probe the terminals in that plug on the loom, while you operate the switches (with ignition on). You should get a power signal at two seperate terminals, one from the set switch, and one from the reset switch.
I'm not too sure if you get a power signal from the brake switch, or whether it simply dumps the vacuum and thats it. I THINK it may be the latter.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests