Hilux 3l Motor- Oh so slow

[gotoy]

BabyGodz...have to agree with +dj_hansen+'s comment about the pump. Send it to the diesel pump guys!.........

[BabyGodzillaGTi-R]

Hey guys i'll appreciate if you could share with me how to exactly toy around with the fuel pump? Coz my bottom end, mid range feels crap, but oddly the top end feels nice and likes to be reved on my 3L turbo.

This is a pic of my fuel pump. Any idea how to tune it?


Also if i fit a GTi-R SR20 turbine would it be ok or way too laggy for road, offroading application?

A T-25 turbine would probably go well as this is suited to a 2.0 SR20, and your putting in on a 2.8 2L, but would you really bother? These motors wont handle anything much past 10PSI, especially at the speeds your talking about, without Intercooling, pump and injection mods.

If your really want to cruise around at 160km/hr all day in a lux, drop the SR20 motor in there from a GTiR

"Tuning" of your pump is a hard thing to do with in on the truck, all you can do is adjust the amount of fuel delivered, and maximum velocity (max rpm). You can add more fuel, but you will run the risk of destroying pistons from overfuelling at low revs as you fill the combustion chamber with fuel that cant be burnt, and create a black smoke screen behind you.

The best thing for you to do would be to get a boost compensator fitted, this will imporve your bottom and mid range because it will adjust for fuel delivery at lower boost pressures, the reason it goes so well at 3,000+RPM is because its being fed 10PSI of boost.

Yes, these motors love to rev, it should happily see 3,500+ RPM given its age, and you use good quality oil and filters every 5,000km.

So, to conclude... dont try and play funny buggers with the pump in your driveway, take it to a diesel workshop and get them to put the pump on the etst bench, tell them you want max power and they will re-time the pump and adjust the fuel for your properly!

SR20 in a Hilux....
Might as well go 2JZ and challange Mr Nagata of TopSecret on the autobahn.
Nah it's not a "Wangan" truck. It's for me to go to college and offroading.
So it's power at the expense of reliability if i drop in my spare GTiR turbine? I notice the current turbo on it, the exhaust housing is big but the compressor side looks pretty small in contrast.
What is this boost compensator? Is this an aneroid pump? Apparently it came with the kit and fitted on. But what does it look like?
It's running a charge cooler of some sort. I think it's a Toyota Celica GT-Four pump, and radiator. The charge cooler says it's from an "L-6 toyota engine" Havent heard of that b4.
Was wondering to stick to this or maybe run a top mount Nissan Pulsar GTi-R intercooler. Cant seem to find the space to front mount it.
What sort of injectors and pump should i specify?(This is as a last resort and budget permitting)
Dont get me wrong, i'm not some guy craving for max power at the expense of reliability. I'm just exploring on the alternatives.
Thanks for the advise DJ Hansen.
My engine bay looks like this.

[bribiesurf]

this is a good pic of the boost compensator, toyota run two types of aneroids that look much the same, one his a boost compensator, one is a HAC, high altitude compensator, they work completely in the opposite way, so be careful, some dodgy bastards palm them off to newbies,
The boost compensater works on a diapragh that pushes a shaft down onto the fuel enrichement circuit to give added fuel when only under boost, so it is possible to set car up up dyno, no boost with compensater off then, set up under boost curve to get the correct specs, and if you want to get particular you can machine different collets to give different fueling curves to cover higher than factory boost levels, all very straght forward, I would recommend the Toyota factory 3L manual it goes into very good detail and it may even list you particular pump model no to help with setups.
BTW I noticed a few things in your eng bay picture, the top rad hose is kinked, bad for cooling, and I like the intercooler setup, just make sure pipes are alloy or stainless and last have you considered getting an airbox off a T/D camry (foreign model in Aus prob cabs in KL) they sit where the battery sits now, and stick the battery where the airbox is, very good HP mod not many people do as the electrics seem to scare them off, I did it on my early lux, that plus exhaust is good for 14kw on a stock 2LT II

[BabyGodzillaGTi-R]

Thanks mate,
thanks for the inputs.
Camry turbo diesel airbox? I thinks that's virtually non existant back here.
We run crappy Proton Iswaras and some Kia van on LPG back in KL.

Didnt know an airbox makes such a difference. Running a 3inch exhaust from downpipe all the way with a muffler in between.

Time to toy around. Will get back with results. hehe

[+dj_hansen+]

Looks to me like a water to air intercooler, hot air is pushed through a tube with cold water cirulating round it. This will probably work better than a top mount, so why change it?

If your pump has an aneroid, then thats a start. Like suggested in the post, it adjust for fueling using boost pressure. Getting hi flow pumps and that kind of thing is expensive, i pay round $1000 just for a rebuilt pump here in aust with factory settings, which was set to max fuel delivery. So getting a comp pump is going to be more expensiveness.

The biggest problem with diesel is to make more power, you add more air, which needs more fuel to burn. There is a 4.2TD in Australia run in cmops that uses 22l per hundred in general day to day driving and moderate offroad work, but it makes a shiteload of torque and pumps out diesel smoke by the bucket load. So economical running + more power dont neccesarily go hand in hand.

Suggestions:
- clean your engine bay .
- hi flow K&N filter.
- dyno tune.
=======================
- pump work if u have the coin.
- gas injection if you have more after pump work coin.

[gotoy]

this is a good pic of the boost compensator, toyota run two types of aneroids that look much the same, one his a boost compensator, one is a HAC, high altitude compensator, they work completely in the opposite way, so be careful, some dodgy bastards palm them off to newbies,
The boost compensater works on a diapragh that pushes a shaft down onto the fuel enrichement circuit to give added fuel when only under boost, so it is possible to set car up up dyno, no boost with compensater off then, set up under boost curve to get the correct specs, and if you want to get particular you can machine different collets to give different fueling curves to cover higher than factory boost levels, all very straght forward, I would recommend the Toyota factory 3L manual it goes into very good detail and it may even list you particular pump model no to help with setups.
BTW I noticed a few things in your eng bay picture, the top rad hose is kinked, bad for cooling, and I like the intercooler setup, just make sure pipes are alloy or stainless and last have you considered getting an airbox off a T/D camry (foreign model in Aus prob cabs in KL) they sit where the battery sits now, and stick the battery where the airbox is, very good HP mod not many people do as the electrics seem to scare them off, I did it on my early lux, that plus exhaust is good for 14kw on a stock 2LT II

How would you tell the difference between a boost compensator and the HAC?
What Toyota models were the boost compensators fitted on?

[BabyGodzillaGTi-R]

Looks to me like a water to air intercooler, hot air is pushed through a tube with cold water cirulating round it. This will probably work better than a top mount, so why change it?

If your pump has an aneroid, then thats a start. Like suggested in the post, it adjust for fueling using boost pressure. Getting hi flow pumps and that kind of thing is expensive, i pay round $1000 just for a rebuilt pump here in aust with factory settings, which was set to max fuel delivery. So getting a comp pump is going to be more expensiveness.

The biggest problem with diesel is to make more power, you add more air, which needs more fuel to burn. There is a 4.2TD in Australia run in cmops that uses 22l per hundred in general day to day driving and moderate offroad work, but it makes a shiteload of torque and pumps out diesel smoke by the bucket load. So economical running + more power dont neccesarily go hand in hand.

Suggestions:
- clean your engine bay .
- hi flow K&N filter.
- dyno tune.
=======================
- pump work if u have the coin.
- gas injection if you have more after pump work coin.

Gas injection? That sounds interesting. When u mean pump work as in they change the setup of the current pump or they replace another pump. Diesel modding is kinda stepping in unfamiliar territory back in KL. Back in West Malaysia, probably one of the few around toying with a turbo. Most just drop in a 1KZ or 2LT or 15BT from the wreckers.
Ouch my engine bay is dirty.
The stock filter is that restrictive? I thought of retaining it coz later i would like to fit in a Safari Snorkel. Unless there is a right hand- driver side snorkel?
The chargecooler, was worried it's suffering some heatsoak issue and it seems pretty small. So i thought if it's worthwhile fitting in a bigger TMIC from the GTi-R.

Sigh so many things to do. Later have to figure out how to fit a set of 36 inch tyres without scrubbing on the fronts. Should i farbicate a front spring hanger? But then again i've an ARB bull bar up front.
Or should i just redrill the spring perches and extend the torque rod?
Modding is unlimitted.

[bribiesurf]

I can't tell you specific models etc, but the Boost compensator has the boost line at 90. to pump running off at the top of the aneroid and is smooth, HAC has a stamped cross pattern.
This is some info I got off the surf site : "Don't be afraid to take the lid off the boost compensator. It is just 4 screws to loosen it, nothing will jump out and get lost. Once you get the lid off, just check and see if you have a little 'tit' on the inside with a tiny hole to let the air into the boost compensator. If you do, then get a drill and drill it out (make it as big as the pipe, no restrictions). Then put the lid back on the compensator and take it for a drive. That one modification should encourage you to try the rest.

The turning of the longest boost ramp towards the front of the engine can be assisted by placing a little dot of paint on top of the diaphram to help you align it when you put it back in the compensator. If you use the long ramp (I suggest you do), then you also need to change the position of the top adjustment in the lid. The two work together. The top adjustment is to pre-position the push rod. When you use the longer ramp the metering pin needs to be brought back to the beginning of the ramp. No biggie, just set the top adjustment so the push rod can extend the farthest into the lid.

When you pull the push rod out of the compensator do not touch the accelerator linkage. You will push the metering pin into the compensator and you won't be able to get the push rod back in. If it does slip out a bit and prevents the push rod from going in, then wiggle the push rod a bit to see if it will go back in. Whatever you do DO NOT TRY TO FORCE THE PUSH ROD DOWN, YOU COULD BEND THE PIN.

If the pin is too far out, again no biggie, just take a Q-tip and stick it in the compensator, find the pin and shove it back into the side of the hole. While you have the Q-tip in there, clean out the old oil. Mine was a rather thick, mucky looking stuff that I cleaned out and replaced with a thinner oil. I figure the thinner oil would work better in the cold mornings before the compensator warmed up. I don't know how much the factory recommends putting in there, but I just kept adding oil until when I pushed the push rod down the excess came out.

If you just take the lid off and don't take out the diaphram you don't have to worry about the metering pin, that's why I suggested you just taking the lid off and drilling the input hole - it's a no-brainer with no potential problems.

Stuffing the lid is a bit of work, but re-setting all the adjustments won't take you 5 minutes."