Battery bubbling and emitting fine spray from caps.

[Red_MAv]

The starting battery on my '89 GQ is working fine and the charger says its full but yesterday when I opened the bonnet to check the essentials I noticed the top of the battery had a lot of acid on it and a fine spray was coming form some of the caps. I had only driven 3 kms beforehand so overheating doesnt sound right. The levels are just to the base of the guides inside. Any clues as to what would normally cause this?

[mickyd555]

time for a new battery dude, and clean the engine bay while its out. The acid will corode the battery tray befor you know it cause you cant see it...

[Red_MAv]

OK, will sort one out this week, so theres not likely to be anything overcharging it etc, its just the battery thats on the way out? hnaks for the advice, I didnt want to toss in a new one and have the same thing continue on happening.

[chimpboy]

It does sound like it could be overcharging due to a r00ted regulator. If you have a multimeter it would be interesting to see what the voltage is at the battery with the engine off and then with the engine running...

Jason

[84ZOOKSTA]

That is boiling the battery, usually happens when a regulator is stuffed and the alternator is supplying Voltages that are way above the normal charging voltage of the battery.

[drivesafe]

Hi Red_MAv, do as chimpboy suggested but allow a few hours after you last turned the engine off before you check the battery as the battery can hold high voltages for a while after the motor is turned off, then check the battery with the engine running but also check the battery again after you have been for a drive

Pullup but leave the motor running and check the battery again and you will then know whether the regulator is running wild.

Cheers.

[Red_MAv]

I cleaned it all down with a rag so it was bone dry., Drove 20kms return to Cranbounre and its still bone dry no sign of boiling today.. .The voltmeter on the dash is sitting on around 15.5 which is where it always is. As i dont own a votmeter I will keep an eye on it and see if it happens again, maybe it was just one of those once off things that occur occasionaly. Thanks for all the advice though much appreciated

[-Scott-]

15.5V!

Way too high! Find another voltmeter to compare with.

Scott

[chimpboy]

15.5V!

Way too high! Find another voltmeter to compare with.

Yes, although with (a) 15.5V on the meter and (b) bubbling battery juice, I am not sure we really need the multimeter...

[drivesafe]

Hi again Red_MAv, NJ SWBs idea is a good one because as you obviously have a wet cell battery, the 15.5 volt reading you are getting would account for the fluid boiling in your battery.

There are very few batteries that can tolerate 15.5 volts and then only for a short period.

Wet cell batteries start boiling at 14.8 and should not be keep at charge voltages above about 14.5 to 14.7 for any length of time.

Before you do anything, put some distilled water in your battery before you drive anywhere and as soon as possible, like tomorrow morning, go get your regulator checked.

It sounds like you need a new one but the problem may be as simple as a loose earth wire.

No matter what it may be, go get it fixed immediately because if you haven’t already irreversibly damaged your battery, you will very shortly.

Cheers and bad news.

[-Scott-]

15.5V!

Way too high! Find another voltmeter to compare with.

Yes, although with (a) 15.5V on the meter and (b) bubbling battery juice, I am not sure we really need the multimeter...

I know, I'm pedantic! I don't want to jump to conclusions, so I'm trying to rule out an inaccurate voltmeter...

Scott

[Red_MAv]

The reading of the volts I am giving is my best estimate of what the dial on the dash says, its always been in that position thats why I didnt think it was too high Maybe the dial doesnt give an accurate reading I will go and purchase a voltmeter tomorrow so that I can get an accurate reading as suggested initially. Whats got me stuffed is that it was spewing out yesterday after a couple of k's lap around the block whereas today I drove 10 times as far and nothing happened. The levels are fine in the battery plenty of distilled water (not tap water) and to just where the plastic level indicators show it should go. I cleaned down the terminals yesterday and then sprayed with that yellow stuff to prevent the corrosion build up, maybe as someone suggested it was a bad earth?

[JWB]

I would also take the battery/batteries out and wash down around the trays!
As this fluid will eat into innner guards if left untouched!
As mine did
My thoughts are you might have a stuffed regulator! they are internal aswell, so prepare for a hit in the pocket

[blkmav]

Mine always sat on just under 13V, one day it went to 15V result was one cooked battery and stuffed regulator. I replaced the battery and had a larger alternator fitted so I don't know the cost to fix just the regulator.

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, although it depends on where you connect the volt meter up to get a reading, the correct voltage for maintaining a battery in good charge is no less than 13.8 and no higher than 14.7. On average the readings should be 14 to 14.3.

Again, it depends on where you connect to the vehicle’s power supply. To get the most accurate reading on what is actually going into the battery, connect both the positive and negative leads from the volt meter to the terminals on the battery.

This may sound simple and logical but it’s surprising how many people just pick up power under the dash and have no idea that there can easily be a volt difference to the battery’s voltage.

Cheers.

[bazooked]

speaking from experience ium gonna say you have a dead cell or cells , this commonly hapens to dying batteries. if ur guage has been on 15.5 volts for most of its life its a good bet its not accurate. as for correct charge rate any where between 13.5 and 14.5 is fine depending on the age and condition of vehicle/alternator. just a bit of extra info, alot of late model cars especially toyotas charge around the 14.7 volts, and the new jags sit on 15.5 volts for the first 10 mins of start up!.

[drivesafe]

The type of battery found in Red_MAv’s vehicle is some what different to the battery found in a new Jag.

The Jag battery is a Calcium / Lead Calcium and as such, is one of very few types of battery that can be fully charged at 13.5 volts.

All other types of automotive batteries need a minimum of 13.8 volts or they will never fully charge.

I don’t expect anyone to just take my word on that, so go check any of the battery manufacturer’s web sites and they all say the same thing, 13.8 is the minimum.

Cheers.

[bazooked]

it doesnt matter dude i sell and fit batteries for a living, lead acid calcium doesnt matter, and 95% of batteries now dont use lead and stoped lead usage sumtime ago.

[drivesafe]

Hi bazooked, I’m not sure what you mean by lead.

If you mean pure lead than yes, batteries are no longer made using pure lead.

But as we are talking about wet cell batteries then lead is most definitely still used in these batteries but it is now used in conjunction with other materials.

Could you be more specific in what you are trying to say.

Cheers

[Red_MAv]

Heres the results from the Voltmeter I bought during the week. Testing both the cranking and auxilliary battery with engine off both read 12.3v
When I run the engine the cranking battery (the bubbling one) is on 14.4v and the Auxilliary is on 14.3 probably come drop over the 4 foot of cable between them? I had the car running for about 4 moinutes and it started bubbling out again. Verdict?

[chimpboy]

Heres the results from the Voltmeter I bought during the week. Testing both the cranking and auxilliary battery with engine off both read 12.3v
When I run the engine the cranking battery (the bubbling one) is on 14.4v and the Auxilliary is on 14.3 probably come drop over the 4 foot of cable between them? I had the car running for about 4 moinutes and it started bubbling out again. Verdict?

Those voltages sound okay, so maybe it's not the regulator after all. Was that just at idle or did you also check it with a bit of revving?

Anyway if you have two batteries and only one is doing the bubbling then that changes things! I would say it strongly suggests that the one battery that's bubbling and spitting is farked.

[Red_MAv]

Thanks Chimpboy thats pretty much what I suspected to. I will get a new one this week. I waited for the bubbing to stop and removed a couple of the caps I can see what Iwould describe as 'bird shit' sitting on the plates just under the water level.

[DamTriton]

Heres the results from the Voltmeter I bought during the week. Testing both the cranking and auxilliary battery with engine off both read 12.3v
When I run the engine the cranking battery (the bubbling one) is on 14.4v and the Auxilliary is on 14.3 probably come drop over the 4 foot of cable between them? I had the car running for about 4 moinutes and it started bubbling out again. Verdict?

No verdict yet...

Are the batteries connected in parallel, or do you have a dual battery load splitting system fitted (Pirhana, RedArc, etc.)?

You could try changing the batteries over for a week or so to see if the "bad" battery still bubbles, or if it is more related to where the battery is physically.

Try disconnecting one battery at a time and measuring the voltage at the terminal after settling, run each for a day or so running the vehicle. I'm inclined to think that you have a low resistance cell in the main battery that is loading everything down, not enough to completely flatten the good battery, but enough that it sort of leaves the bad battery "charged" and the good battery "undercharged", but with enough reserve in them to operate the vehicle (starting, running, accs). When the alternator comes online to charge the good battery up to the regulator set voltage, it actually overcharges and overheats the bad one (spitting after 4 mins, etc).

Voltages need to be measured in context, one isolated voltage at a random time is not going to tell you much in these sort of conditions. Try to get "known good" and "suspect" voltage measurements, by isolating and substituting components, taking meticulous readings and records of what you have done to get them (otherwise known as the "scientific method" of only changing one variable at a time and noting the effect)

It does sound like you do have a dead battery, whatever the cause, and will need to be replaced.

[bazooked]

i bet mt left nut its a DEAD CELL, which i might of said earlier. thats is the most common sympton for it when its running.

[-Scott-]

i bet mt left nut its a DEAD CELL, which i might of said earlier. thats is the most common sympton for it when its running.

I bet his left nut that's the problem, too.

[Red_MAv]

Good news Bazooked, you get to hang on to your left nut. I tossed in a new N70ZZ and all is well again. No more spitting acid. Took out the plastic tray and cleaned all the crap up in the general area, including paint blistering off and geeez the acid gets into the metal quick smart. Stripped it all back with Baking soda and wire brush and primed it all today. Will source a similar red colour tomorrow to finish the job off. At least its only an $89 fix, for a fourby thats cheap. Thanks everyone for your advice. By the way with this u-beaut voltmeter I bought how do i check the Amps being drawn from the battery when car is off (i.e) clock alarm etc) what gets hooked up to what?

[drivesafe]

Hi Red_MAv, you will have to disconnect the positive cable from the battery and then connect the multi meter’s red lead to the battery’s positive terminal and the multi meter’s black lead to the battery cable.

Make sure you have the multi meter leads plugged into the correct sockets on the multi meter.

As most multi meters are only capable of measuring up to 10 amps, MAKE SURE YOUR IGNITION KEY IS IN THE “ OFF “ POSITION and that your headlights and sound system are off otherwise you are going to blow the fuse inside the multi meter.

Also don’t start the vehicle as the same thing will happen.

Multi meters may work in a slightly different way depending on the type and model but select the DC AMPS and you should get a reading that corresponds to the current draw on the battery.

Cheers.

[Red_MAv]

The multimeter is set up at the moment to read the voltage of the battery, in that I have it on 20 DC and it reads fine. DO I need to swap teh dial around to somewhere else or is this too hard without seeing it. I am not an exectrical expert, as you have undoubtedly gathered. There was a choice of 2 spots to place the red lead into it as well and Ichoose the wrong one initialy as the wires go hot super fast. But its all sweet now.

[-Scott-]

The multimeter is set up at the moment to read the voltage of the battery, in that I have it on 20 DC and it reads fine. DO I need to swap teh dial around to somewhere else or is this too hard without seeing it. I am not an exectrical expert, as you have undoubtedly gathered. There was a choice of 2 spots to place the red lead into it as well and Ichoose the wrong one initialy as the wires go hot super fast. But its all sweet now.

Yes, the other spot is the high-current measuring spot, and the "hot super fast" bit means that it's unfused.

There should be a "sections" of the dial which are marked. You should be using the "DCV" section - or something like that. (They might indicate AC with a ~ squiggle, or DC with --- mark.) There should also be a section labeled "DCA" or similar, with individual positions labeled with things like 2mA, 20mA, 200mA. You need to find the position labeled 10A, and put the red lead back in the "hot spot."

WARNING! When you're using this configuration your multimeter is like one piece of wire - it will short out voltages.

When measuring current the multimeter needs to be wired into your circuit like an extra length of wire - the current you are measuring needs to flow in one lead and out the other.

If you put the leads ACROSS the battery, it's like putting a jumper lead across it - no resistance, huge current, lots of damage.

Once you have finished measuring current, it's a good idea to put the red lead back into the other position immediately - otherwise you'll end up with super hot wires again.

Good luck,

Scott

[Red_MAv]

Thanks Scot that has given me a bit more of an insight into how it works, I will have a play tomoorw. I dont have a problem with the battery going flat but have often read about checking for these drawing issues and wondered how I go about it.. Much appreciated.