Before you go burning me alive, i'm going to ask this.
As many threads before me have covered, the 2.6 magna EFI can be fitted to the 2.6 Pajero engine.
I know the details vaguely as it has been covered in earlier threads. I'm interested in doing this, or swapping for the 2.4 Triton engine, which has been mentioned before, but no one has been too sure about it as far as I can tell.
Anyway, what i'm after is some or even a pic of a vehicle that it has been done to. I'm not likely to do the work myself but, i'll need to find someone who can do it properly. (I hate automotive tradespeople at the moment... I won't go into why right now)
Also If anyone can suggest someone who can do the work around vic somewhere. (Preferably eastern 'burbs) That would be appreciated.
My reason for wanting to do such a pain in the assj job. Massive flat spot in acceleration, but the engine seems to make nice power after that... And bad fuel consumption.
Well my aspestos, flame proof suit is on (cough, cough) but any help would be appreciated.
Here's a pic of my rig anyway!
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'88 SWB - EFI... Don't kill me please
Moderator: -Scott-
'88 SWB - EFI... Don't kill me please
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Massive flat spot was the symptom I had when a "friend" used a timing light to "slightly retard" my timing without disconnecting the vacuum advance. 
Instead of knocking it back a degree, he reset it to 7 deg BTDC - at a fast idle, with the vacuum advance connected.
I guess I'm thinking it's a massive undertaking to fix what shouldn't be difficult. But I guess that could be the "hate automotive tradespeople" issue too...
Not exactly his normal line of work, but you could call Mark's Adaptors?
Cheers,
Scott
Instead of knocking it back a degree, he reset it to 7 deg BTDC - at a fast idle, with the vacuum advance connected.I guess I'm thinking it's a massive undertaking to fix what shouldn't be difficult. But I guess that could be the "hate automotive tradespeople" issue too...
Not exactly his normal line of work, but you could call Mark's Adaptors?
Cheers,
Scott
Cheers for that. I've tried to tune out the flat spot. Run it up to about 10 degrees BTDC from memory, didn't seem to help. I suspect it may be running a little lean, but the mixture adjustment on these carbs has been plugged and I'm in not really geared to be drilling holes in carby at the moment.
Also the auto choke seems to stay fully on (revs at about 2500) until it's fully warmed up.
I think part of the fuel consumption problem may be that it sits on the flatspot at cruising speeds.
Also the auto choke seems to stay fully on (revs at about 2500) until it's fully warmed up.
I think part of the fuel consumption problem may be that it sits on the flatspot at cruising speeds.
Did you get pinging while you were advancing your ignition?
I've got a Sigma with a 2.6 (and doing silly things with it - like twin DCOEs) and I'm not convinced that my timing mark is correct (not that I've checked, either...)
A mechanic once checked it, and told me it was over 30 deg BTDC.
He put it back to where he thought it should be, and it ran like a dog. I've got the dizzy so far advanced that it's a bugger to start, but I don't get pinging. If I retard it at all, it starts coughing a farting. I paid an auto-electrician to check the advance curve, and they told me it's fine - I don't think I believe them.
Throw away your timing light, advance your timing and take it for a drive. Keep advancing until you get pinging, then knock it back until you don't - that's how I've always set my timing. And don't worry about damage to your engine from a few seconds of pinging. I had a 1700 Saturn running 10.5:1, which would occasionally ping terribly (like when I ran out of fuel, and had to fill it with regular instead of premium.) When I stripped the engine down for the last time the pistons were fine.
Hang on - lean, you say? Accelerator pump jet working?
Scott
I've got a Sigma with a 2.6 (and doing silly things with it - like twin DCOEs) and I'm not convinced that my timing mark is correct (not that I've checked, either...)
A mechanic once checked it, and told me it was over 30 deg BTDC.
He put it back to where he thought it should be, and it ran like a dog. I've got the dizzy so far advanced that it's a bugger to start, but I don't get pinging. If I retard it at all, it starts coughing a farting. I paid an auto-electrician to check the advance curve, and they told me it's fine - I don't think I believe them. Throw away your timing light, advance your timing and take it for a drive. Keep advancing until you get pinging, then knock it back until you don't - that's how I've always set my timing. And don't worry about damage to your engine from a few seconds of pinging. I had a 1700 Saturn running 10.5:1, which would occasionally ping terribly (like when I ran out of fuel, and had to fill it with regular instead of premium.) When I stripped the engine down for the last time the pistons were fine.
Hang on - lean, you say? Accelerator pump jet working?
Scott
Take the air cleaner off so you can look down the barrel (and open the choke butterfly if it's closed.) By whatever means, snap the throttle open quickly, and hold it open, while looking down the carburettor.
You should see a stream of fuel pump into one barrel for a few seconds. If you don't see a stream, or you only get a dribble, I'd say that's your flat spot.
Cheers,
Scott
You should see a stream of fuel pump into one barrel for a few seconds. If you don't see a stream, or you only get a dribble, I'd say that's your flat spot.
Cheers,
Scott
if u still wana do a engine swap don't go the triton 2.4 it's gutless even in a 2wd ute. i'm not sure but maybe the 2.5tdi will bolt up no wories but u'd better ask the mitsu guru's about that one.
kaylee 2004 hdj78 RV. 33 mickey atz's, winchbar, 3i lift, 3i exhoust, spoties, roofracks and ufh. pimped interior .
86 lwb zook wt soa, 33's, locked, bard up, prety lights. monster tacho:/
86 lwb zook wt soa, 33's, locked, bard up, prety lights. monster tacho:/
Alright... Decided to go poking for the slight coolant leak I have somewhere. Yep seems unrelated (it is) sort of
Anyway, before taking off the inlet manifold and carby and things, I though i'd have a look at the thermostat. (I knew it wasn't the cause for the leak, but I hadn't checked it yet)
Well well, the thermostat worked... sort of. Replaced it, flat spot fixed
And to think I was going to disable the automatic choke thinking that It could have been the problem.
I'll have to set the timing back to 5 degrees BTDC, where it should be. (it's about 8 BDTC at the moment) and see how she goes. Hopefully fixes the fuel consumption as well.
It seems that the 2.6 is prone to tuning problems and such things from what I have read. Flat spots and the like. Well at least mine seems to be a simple solution.
Cheers Lads!
Anyway, before taking off the inlet manifold and carby and things, I though i'd have a look at the thermostat. (I knew it wasn't the cause for the leak, but I hadn't checked it yet)
Well well, the thermostat worked... sort of. Replaced it, flat spot fixed
And to think I was going to disable the automatic choke thinking that It could have been the problem.I'll have to set the timing back to 5 degrees BTDC, where it should be. (it's about 8 BDTC at the moment) and see how she goes. Hopefully fixes the fuel consumption as well.
It seems that the 2.6 is prone to tuning problems and such things from what I have read. Flat spots and the like. Well at least mine seems to be a simple solution.
Cheers Lads!
'88 SWB - EFI... Don't kill me please
YES! i agree. I have at 8 degrees and there is no pinging but there is a slightly better performance. I think it's a common trick in many engines...hudson44 wrote:I would leave it at 8 degrees if there's no pinging. There's no harm in having it slightly advanced with no pinging. Might even get better performance and/or fuel economy!
cheers
Hi mate i have just had the same probs with my 1984 swb Pajero 2.6 , i took the standard carb off and replaced it with a 34/36 DGV Webber and put it on gas/petrol and my flat spots are gone ps you must do your timming from the start with a timming light if you have any props go to the your local spanners.mrx78u wrote:Cheers for that. I've tried to tune out the flat spot. Run it up to about 10 degrees BTDC from memory, didn't seem to help. I suspect it may be running a little lean, but the mixture adjustment on these carbs has been plugged and I'm in not really geared to be drilling holes in carby at the moment.
Also the auto choke seems to stay fully on (revs at about 2500) until it's fully warmed up.
I think part of the fuel consumption problem may be that it sits on the flatspot at cruising speeds.
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I'm intrigued... So you found a carby which is jetted to suit. What's it off? And where'd you source the manifold?
I'm interested in doing this. Unless it's going to cost alot that is. What are you going to do about the air filter? If you use the rampod type thing on the top of the carb, won't you pick up alot of dust and crap?
I'm interested in doing this. Unless it's going to cost alot that is. What are you going to do about the air filter? If you use the rampod type thing on the top of the carb, won't you pick up alot of dust and crap?
mrx78u wrote:I'm intrigued... So you found a carby which is jetted to suit. What's it off? And where'd you source the manifold?
I'm interested in doing this. Unless it's going to cost alot that is. What are you going to do about the air filter? If you use the rampod type thing on the top of the carb, won't you pick up alot of dust and crap?
You Need a
*32/36 DGV DOWN DRAFT WEBBER $150.00 "off ebay or weckers"
*ADAPTER PLATE $40.00 "CAN BYE AT ANY AUTO SHOP"
*12mm open/ringy $SHOULD HAVE ONE
*GASKET GLUE $10.00
*YOUR JETS SIZE FROM OLD CARBY OR EMAIL mlpcarb@myrealbox.com
*TIMMING LIGHT "U HAVE IT REDO YOUR TIMMING
*AIR FILTER TO SUIT OR MAKE IT UP OUT OF YOUR OLD ONE CUT IT
GO TO THIS LINK 1
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WEBBER-32-36-DGV ... dZViewItem
AND THIS ONE 2
http://stores.ebay.com.au/MLP-Carburett ... idZ2QQtZkm
Last edited by Youngy on Mon May 08, 2006 8:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Put a electric fuel pump here is a link for umrx78u wrote:Youngy,
Cheers for that. Have you tested on a decent incline yet? How much truth is there behing these not working well for 4wds because they starve the engine of fuel on a good slope?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/High-Volume-Elec ... dZViewItem
i have put one on mine because i had that prop so i yes what the hell i will give it ago and it works ive been on some steep hills were the only thing to save me from roll back down was my winch me and 4 of my mates all have the same year model pajeros and we all have the webbers in now
Changing jets on Webers is quick and easy (most of them...)
Trouble is the complexities you can run into: idle fuel, idle air correction, main fuel, main air correction, pump jet, pump return, emulsion tube, primary venturi, secondary venturi. It's generally pretty easy to change these items, but determining what needs changing (and what to put in) can be the problem.
Good luck,
Scott
Trouble is the complexities you can run into: idle fuel, idle air correction, main fuel, main air correction, pump jet, pump return, emulsion tube, primary venturi, secondary venturi. It's generally pretty easy to change these items, but determining what needs changing (and what to put in) can be the problem.
Good luck,
Scott
Corrected jet settings. Not from pajero, but from 2.6 magna of all things.
The setup i'm thinking of using will be as follows...
P.S. I've never worked on a weber before.
- Idle Primary: .60
Idle Secondary: .55
Primary Fuel: 1.40
Primary Air: 1.60
Secondary Fuel: 1.65
Secondary Air: 1.80
The setup i'm thinking of using will be as follows...
- 32/36 DVG manual choke weber with above jet settings.
Repco brand 4-6psi electric fuel pump. Mechanical pump removed and blanked off. This will be located near the fuel tank with a fuel filter between it and the tank. The pump will be wired up from the + side of the ignition coil with a relay setup from an oil pressure switch to cut the fuel in case the engine stalls for safety reasons.
Small surge tank located in the engine bay with three outlets, these will be configured as with the lower outlet going to the weber, the middle will be the line from the fuel pump and the upper will connect to the fuel return line.
Fuel pressure regulator on the fuel return line.
P.S. I've never worked on a weber before.
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