Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Bleeding Brakes on LWB GQ help!!
Bleeding Brakes on LWB GQ help!!
HI all,
On the weekend I'm fitting new extended brake lines that have been sitting in my garage for ages . Anyway it's been a while since I bleed car brakes (done lots and lots of dirt bikes, but they're easy!) and I know they can be a bit tricky, on my old truck I had I used to start on the front drivers side (shortest distance to master cylinder) and go clock wise, I think?
So with the GQ Patrols is there any particular pattern or anything I need to be aware of when I bleed the brakes after fitting the extended lines?
Thanks for the help people!
Cheers, Paul
On the weekend I'm fitting new extended brake lines that have been sitting in my garage for ages . Anyway it's been a while since I bleed car brakes (done lots and lots of dirt bikes, but they're easy!) and I know they can be a bit tricky, on my old truck I had I used to start on the front drivers side (shortest distance to master cylinder) and go clock wise, I think?
So with the GQ Patrols is there any particular pattern or anything I need to be aware of when I bleed the brakes after fitting the extended lines?
Thanks for the help people!
Cheers, Paul
I am doing exactly the same job this weekend so I will be interested in any replys, for me the only 'problem area' may be the brake bias thingamyjig, might need to start car to bleed the last bit of the rears -dunno will see. Give it a good flush out too, can save some expense down the line.
cheers fnq
cheers fnq
*JUST LUV IT* 96 GQ LWB TD4.2, Cav, Kings, Dobinsons, Motorguard, Enginesaver, 400 pro, Cooper ST's (rolls eyes), fleetguard oil filters, Delo 400 engine oil, Delo ESI gearbox oil and an RTC.
Bleed each section in turn. the way I did it was bleed the lines then put them on the caliper, then bleed front first then rear then wait 20 mins, then front then rear again. was pretty good after thatberetta wrote:Yeah fnq, was planning on flushing the system and putting all new fluid in while I'm at so I wanted to make sure I got the bleeding spot on! Also might look at making a new bracket for the bias valve to get it back to factory setting.
bled
standard for most cars is furthest point from master cyl to closest.beretta wrote:I'm pretty sure there's a pattern you should follow, like drivers front then passenger rear etc. etc., I read it somewhere ages ago but can't find it again, got a gregories manual handy it probably says it in there? I've got one somewhere but can't find it after moving house!
on patrols dont forget the brake bias bleeder!!!
see ya mav
It is easier and quicker to bleed brakes with a vacuum pump. Bleed furtest away first..ie...left rear finishing up at right front. vacuum pump can be set up to dump oil into a bottle before it actually gets to pump...can bleed brakes by yourself in half the time ...and is basically foolproof. I change my vehicle fluids every year with this method ...no probs yet.
Cheers Keith
Cheers Keith
Nuthin is ever the same once I own it !!
Yeah it`s normally furthest wheel to closest wheel. You need to be careful when using the pedal for bleeding as when you press right down you go beyond the ridge that is usually formed by wear. This can destroy the seal so I usually dont push the pedal down any further than it would normally travel when fully bled and working.
Alex
Alex
bogged wrote:[Bleed each section in turn. the way I did it was bleed the lines then put them on the caliper, then bleed front first then rear then wait 20 mins, then front then rear again. was pretty good after that
BWAHAHAHAAH , I thought you new everything Bogged . That is the stupidest way I have ever heard to bleed brakes
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
maybe stupid, but it worked.mkpatrol wrote:bogged wrote:[Bleed each section in turn. the way I did it was bleed the lines then put them on the caliper, then bleed front first then rear then wait 20 mins, then front then rear again. was pretty good after that
BWAHAHAHAAH , I thought you new everything Bogged . That is the stupidest way I have ever heard to bleed brakes
Did it today fitting the rear hose all went smooth, moved to the front and 2.5 hours later after some extra metal line removal and refitting it was finally in and ready for bleeding.
** Buy a Nissan and for absolutely no charge they will throw in manufacturer specification cross-threaded brake lines **
Bugger me the air is still blue where the car was parked!
I bled the rear then front and totally ignored the bias valve (not sure if mine has a nipple), brakes are no better or worse than before (is it possible to lock a gq up on a dry road???? ) I used almost 1.2L of fluid and really couldn't see myself using any less no matter what I could have done different.
Beretta make sure you have enough fluid these use alot, I was lucky enough I had bought more than I needed for just the gq because I was also going to service the brakes on the other car.
Hope it all went well if you got to it today.
cheers fnq
** Buy a Nissan and for absolutely no charge they will throw in manufacturer specification cross-threaded brake lines **
Bugger me the air is still blue where the car was parked!
I bled the rear then front and totally ignored the bias valve (not sure if mine has a nipple), brakes are no better or worse than before (is it possible to lock a gq up on a dry road???? ) I used almost 1.2L of fluid and really couldn't see myself using any less no matter what I could have done different.
Beretta make sure you have enough fluid these use alot, I was lucky enough I had bought more than I needed for just the gq because I was also going to service the brakes on the other car.
Hope it all went well if you got to it today.
cheers fnq
Last edited by fnqcairns on Sat May 13, 2006 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
*JUST LUV IT* 96 GQ LWB TD4.2, Cav, Kings, Dobinsons, Motorguard, Enginesaver, 400 pro, Cooper ST's (rolls eyes), fleetguard oil filters, Delo 400 engine oil, Delo ESI gearbox oil and an RTC.
Good tip Ozy1 thanks I will have another go at it tomorrow and take a good look at the bias valve and follow your plan, the brakes pull the car up fast, the ABS I have without having ABS ,and I can really stomp on them, I am a pretty big fella. Dont know if this is typical or not.
Beretta sounds like you were busy regardless, I forget to say the reason I used so much fluid was because of the flush.
Will let you know how I go with the bias valve and correct order bleed.
cheers fnq
Beretta sounds like you were busy regardless, I forget to say the reason I used so much fluid was because of the flush.
Will let you know how I go with the bias valve and correct order bleed.
cheers fnq
*JUST LUV IT* 96 GQ LWB TD4.2, Cav, Kings, Dobinsons, Motorguard, Enginesaver, 400 pro, Cooper ST's (rolls eyes), fleetguard oil filters, Delo 400 engine oil, Delo ESI gearbox oil and an RTC.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests