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I spent a couple of hours today getting my head around this brake bias device with different settings then test runs, I am sure the brakes should be better than what I have got.
I came to a couple of conclusions one is with a 2inch lift or above the device is useless at increasing rearwheel braking with payload weight and will actually decrease it untill a lower sag than standard ride height is reached, then it will start to work as designed .
What is possible fronm these cars? Anyone done a 4 wheel lockup before on a dry sealed road at any speed, preferably LWB and standard tyres?
cheers fnq
*JUST LUV IT* 96 GQ LWB TD4.2, Cav, Kings, Dobinsons, Motorguard, Enginesaver, 400 pro, Cooper ST's (rolls eyes), fleetguard oil filters, Delo 400 engine oil, Delo ESI gearbox oil and an RTC.
Nup, I've had a couple of emergency stops where I would have have thought they would lock up and just keep giving the pedal more, but no. Didn't want them to lock up so they may have had a bit more int hem.
But I run 35s. With 31s I think they would pretty easy.
I unhooked the big spring off the rear prop' valve and hooked into a hole in the chassis somewhere, so it always had max pressure to the rear, you can lock them up but the discs and pads especislly need to be in good nick, if the pads get glazed (give them a polish on a smooth bit of concrete, if they've been over heated this doesnt work) I fitted some DBA slotted rotors to the front of my comp shorty, stopped great and handled the mud and shit a lot better.
Did it once or twice on the way to work (bloody Kangaroos are dumb).
That was on 285/75R16's, was heavy on the front and did tend to lock up the rear before the front. But it did have a high wieght transfer when you got on the anchors being a shorty the rear would get very light.
First time I did the front alternated lock unlock (left to right), thought I was in lots of trouble then. Think the cause was warped rotors
if you have lifted your vehicle, just extend your brake bias mount by the same amount... it should still work fine. I would find a piece of dirt road to test the skids on though...... locking up a 2 and a half tonne patrol on bitumen doesn't do much for your tyres.
There is no "I" in Team, but there are 5 in Individual Brilliance
Today I changed front pads to Bendix 4wd ones for $80.00 and threw the genuine Nissan ones in the bin after the first test drive I have an extra 20% better braking now, then I tied the valve back to it's full on position and went for a drive, at this setting the back brakes lockup way early so I backed it off some (with the backstop bolt) and now have real brakes and can never have any less because the bolt will not allow it but because of the lift I will never have extra braking to account for payload either.
Far happier just these two thing do make a difference the brakes will lockup now but not with a bang like other cars, still got a way to go. I will look into ventilated disks, cheers.
Thanks for all the help
cheers fnq
Last edited by fnqcairns on Fri Jun 09, 2006 7:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
*JUST LUV IT* 96 GQ LWB TD4.2, Cav, Kings, Dobinsons, Motorguard, Enginesaver, 400 pro, Cooper ST's (rolls eyes), fleetguard oil filters, Delo 400 engine oil, Delo ESI gearbox oil and an RTC.
barnsey wrote:
And to answer your question, my diesel Patrol's on standard tyres (wide 31's) and no lift etc, and it was a dry day.
So you weren't wearing a set of depends ?
My brakes are ell shaged'o I have 35" MTRS and haven't adjusted the Bias Valve for my 4" lift either. I too am interested in fitting slotted rotars to the front and was wondering if they really help with larger tyres ?
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
Slotted discs are ok,good for cleaning and cooling. 1st hand experiance.
Drilled and slotted????? Have heard?not seen that they crack
between holes.Would guess it would be worse if they are hot
and you come across a creek crossing.
People get used to thier brakes as they get less effective.