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60 diffs in 70s

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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60 diffs in 70s

Post by midi73 »

I am putting 60 series diffs in a 70 series cruiser.
I have not taken the 70 diff out yet because I want everything to be done and ready on the 60 housing so i can swap it all over quickly and not have my car off the road long.
Because of this I cant get an accurate measurment of the distance between the spring mounts. Has anyone got a 70s housing with the centre out, and can measure the distance between these mounts across the front of the diff so I know how far to move these mounts in on the 60s diffs.
Thanks for your help.
Dave.
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Re: 60 diffs in 70s

Post by dogbreath_48 »

midi73 wrote:I am putting 60 series diffs in a 70 series cruiser.
I have not taken the 70 diff out yet because I want everything to be done and ready on the 60 housing so i can swap it all over quickly and not have my car off the road long.
Because of this I cant get an accurate measurment of the distance between the spring mounts. Has anyone got a 70s housing with the centre out, and can measure the distance between these mounts across the front of the diff so I know how far to move these mounts in on the 60s diffs.
Thanks for your help.
Dave.
I don't know, but keep us up to date with the project! How much wider are the 60's?

-Stu :)
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Post by dumbdunce »

6x series axles are 70mm wider front and rear compared to 7x series - that's 35mm per wheel.

spring hanger widths:

front rear

6x series 796 1030
7x series 640 940

the problem comes with the difference in the front - the 60 series front diff is offset a LONG way, you need to move the hangers in 78mm each side, however that means to maintain the same platform height on the diff side you need to notch the diff, probably too much to be able to get it all to work. the options are to drop the spring perch down (yuck) or to have to axle hang out that side a fair bit (yuck) or section the housing to centre the diff up a bit, then have custom axle shafts made (yuck, + might as well just lengthen the 70 series housing).

the rear isn't a problem.

cheap solution with essentially the same results: get some wheels made up with 35mm more offset than what you currently run, then bolt them to your existing axles. your wheels will be in the same place with far less engineering effort.

maybe possible to get an 80 series front axle in there with less drama but the 80 front diff is well offset too.

track: front rear

7x 1415 1400
6x 1485 1470
8x 1595 1600

so if you can get 80s axles instead there is a significant width bonus.


another potential mod without sawpping axles would be to use the IFS hilux spindles and brakes on the 7x series housing to get width, and 80 series spindles and brakes on the rear for some extra width. with these options you get to keep your existing housings, inner axles, CV's etc so it's a far more bolt on solution.


fuel for thought anyway

cheers

DD
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Post by dogbreath_48 »

dumbdunce wrote:
another potential mod without sawpping axles would be to use the IFS hilux spindles and brakes on the 7x series housing to get width, and 80 series spindles and brakes on the rear for some extra width. with these options you get to keep your existing housings, inner axles, CV's etc so it's a far more bolt on solution.
Approximately how much width would you expect to gain? Would this be easier on bearings than big custom offset rims? I suspect it'd be more legal anyway ;)

-Stu :)
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Post by dumbdunce »

dogbreath_48 wrote:
dumbdunce wrote:
another potential mod without sawpping axles would be to use the IFS hilux spindles and brakes on the 7x series housing to get width, and 80 series spindles and brakes on the rear for some extra width. with these options you get to keep your existing housings, inner axles, CV's etc so it's a far more bolt on solution.
Approximately how much width would you expect to gain? Would this be easier on bearings than big custom offset rims? I suspect it'd be more legal anyway ;)

-Stu :)
I'm not going to make a call on legality, but it's certainly less detectable than rim mods. I think you gain about an inch per wheel at both ends, some of the hilux crew will be able to answer more accurately for the front.
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Post by J Top »

approx 35mm a side @ front
J Top
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Post by midi73 »

Sorry I have not replied earlier, I have been away for a couple of days. Thank you everyone for you replies, thank you espescially DD for all your Info. Has been very helpfull, although a bearer of bad news on the front housing. I had thought about the rim offset option, But was looking at wider diffs so it all ran better and with less stress on componants. there is some other food for thought though as you said. mabe 60 housing on the back and the lux spindles on the front.
It may be a dumb question but how do these spindles make a wider track.
Cheers.
Dave.
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Post by midi73 »

I can get an 80s complete rear diff disc to disc including calipers. with a centre which has a factory toyota difflock but is missing the actuator that bolts on to the out side. I can get it for $200. it has been sitting out in the weather for a while but is closed up except where the accuator is missing, the rotors are also rusty of course. Is this worth the money? what would the centre alone be worth? what would the actuator cost.
Cheers.
Dave.
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Post by dumbdunce »

midi73 wrote:I can get an 80s complete rear diff disc to disc including calipers. with a centre which has a factory toyota difflock but is missing the actuator that bolts on to the out side. I can get it for $200. it has been sitting out in the weather for a while but is closed up except where the accuator is missing, the rotors are also rusty of course. Is this worth the money? what would the centre alone be worth? what would the actuator cost.
Cheers.
Dave.
bargain if the guts are ok. shouldn't be too hard to build a cable, vacuum or pressure actuator, I suspect the electric actuator is probably quite expensive from toyota (at a guess $500+)


re hilux spindles, the wheel mounting surface is offset more towards the end of the axle - no magic. it's like having invisible wheel spacers.
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Post by midi73 »

Thank you very much for your time and advice DD. I thought it might be something like that for the spindles, but I was just making sure. Will investigate the 80 series diff further. Do you know of anyone who has put an 80series diff under a 70. ( coil conversion ). do all mounts on the diff have to be moved to line up with the chassis. I know there is a fair bit of work involved, but just wandering what is involved on the diff itself.
Cheers.
Dave.
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Post by dumbdunce »

midi73 wrote:Thank you very much for your time and advice DD. I thought it might be something like that for the spindles, but I was just making sure. Will investigate the 80 series diff further. Do you know of anyone who has put an 80series diff under a 70. ( coil conversion ). do all mounts on the diff have to be moved to line up with the chassis. I know there is a fair bit of work involved, but just wandering what is involved on the diff itself.
Cheers.
Dave.
maybe start a new thread in general tech, might get lucky and fone someone who's done it. at a minimum you'll need to weld onto the chassis: upper and lower control arm brackets, a panhard rod bracket + reinforcement/crossmember, and coil perches. if the 70 chassis is narrower than the 80 then chances are you will have to move the spring perches inboard on the axle - this does not present the problem like the front of the 60 though - the 80 bulge is more centrerd.
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Post by midi73 »

dumbdunce wrote:

another potential mod without sawpping axles would be to use the IFS hilux spindles and brakes on the 7x series housing to get width, and 80 series spindles and brakes on the rear for some extra width. with these options you get to keep your existing housings, inner axles, CV's etc so it's a far more bolt on solution.


fuel for thought anyway

cheers

DD
I started looking into this option of putting 80s spindles and brakes onto the 70series axles. But the problem that I have encountered is that the bolt pattern for the backing plate and brake caliper are different. Does anyone have a simple solution to this problem.
Cheers.
Dave.
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Post by beanz2 »

midi73 wrote: I started looking into this option of putting 80s spindles and brakes onto the 70series axles. But the problem that I have encountered is that the bolt pattern for the backing plate and brake caliper are different. Does anyone have a simple solution to this problem.
Cheers.
Dave.
If you use a post 1992 70 series diff housing, the backing plate bolt patterns are identical.

Here is a pic of a 92+ 70 series housing next to an 80 housing to show the width difference (both are standing on end on a level floor). Sorry, the picture is a large file to open for those guys on dial up connection.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/ ... ousing.jpg

Dave
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Post by V8 Middy »

dumbdunce wrote: another potential mod without sawpping axles would be to use the IFS hilux spindles and brakes on the 7x series housing to get width, and 80 series spindles and brakes on the rear for some extra width. with these options you get to keep your existing housings, inner axles, CV's etc so it's a far more bolt on solution.
I was thinking of doing this to stop the 35s scrubbing the front leaves as well as gaining some track. Will this cause the tyres to turn in more of an arc (just like offset rims) or does the steering get moved out wider.

Also, would the Hilux brakes be the same or better than the 7x series. I'm also guessing that you would end up with disc brakes in the rear which is a bonus.
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Post by midi73 »

beanz2 wrote:
midi73 wrote: I started looking into this option of putting 80s spindles and brakes onto the 70series axles. But the problem that I have encountered is that the bolt pattern for the backing plate and brake caliper are different. Does anyone have a simple solution to this problem.
Cheers.
Dave.
If you use a post 1992 70 series diff housing, the backing plate bolt patterns are identical.

Here is a pic of a 92+ 70 series housing next to an 80 housing to show the width difference (both are standing on end on a level floor). Sorry, the picture is a large file to open for those guys on dial up connection.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/ ... ousing.jpg

Dave
Thanks for that Dave. So there is no easy way apart from the late 70 housing. Anyone want to swap an early housing for a late one.
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Post by midi73 »

V8 Middy wrote:
dumbdunce wrote: another potential mod without sawpping axles would be to use the IFS hilux spindles and brakes on the 7x series housing to get width, and 80 series spindles and brakes on the rear for some extra width. with these options you get to keep your existing housings, inner axles, CV's etc so it's a far more bolt on solution.
I was thinking of doing this to stop the 35s scrubbing the front leaves as well as gaining some track. Will this cause the tyres to turn in more of an arc (just like offset rims) or does the steering get moved out wider.

Also, would the Hilux brakes be the same or better than the 7x series. I'm also guessing that you would end up with disc brakes in the rear which is a bonus.
I have looked into and bought ifs spindles for the front. It does widen the arc at the front because it moves the wheel out on the hub instead of moving it out on the wheel itself. As far as brakes are concerned you can buy a rotor spacer from Marks (I think). Using this spacer you then bolt the landcruiser rotor onto the hilux hubs. The cruiser rotors are bigger, vented so therefore better. I have not put them on yet as I can not afford the spacers. They are $350 a pair. I have pics of these if you want them let me know and I will email them to you. I dont know how to upload pics on this forum.
Yes you will end up with discs on the rear. you will need the backing plate rotors and drum hand brake set up. but as stated above you will need the later 70 housing. You should still be able to use your standard 70 handbrake cable.
Cheers.
Dave.
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Post by V8 Middy »

Hmmmm might be cheaper to go 1in wider in the rims and deal with bearing wear.

Thanks for the info midi73. If you want, email the pics anyway and I'll host them cos I'm sure plenty of others will want to see.
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Post by midi73 »

V8 Middy wrote:Hmmmm might be cheaper to go 1in wider in the rims and deal with bearing wear.

Thanks for the info midi73. If you want, email the pics anyway and I'll host them cos I'm sure plenty of others will want to see.
Yep no worries. Another option for the back is to get a 60 housing and move the spring mounts in to the right width for the 70 and you gain about the same amount of width as bolting on the 80 spindles The only cost is for the housing and to move the spring mounts. I have a bare 60 housing here I would sell if you wanted to go that way. I was going to, but I got an 80 rear diff real cheap so I am going to go with that option so I can have rear discs. You cant use the 60 housing on the front because of the pumpkin being in the road of moving the spring mount, so that is the other reason why I have changed plans.
You could do the 60 housing on the back and the hilux spindles on the front. Hilux spindles go for about $100 for the pair. Food for thought.
What is you email address and i will mail you those pics. You can PM me your email address if you prefer.
Cheers.
Dave.
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Post by midi73 »

Pics of rotor spacers that mate landcruiser rotors to IFS hilux hubs.
Image
Image
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Post by beanz2 »

midi73 wrote: Yes you will end up with discs on the rear. you will need the backing plate rotors and drum hand brake set up. but as stated above you will need the later 70 housing. You should still be able to use your standard 70 handbrake cable.
Cheers.
Dave.
You'll find the drum brake hand cable is a little bit too long when used in a disc set up. As there are no MWB cruisers equipped with rear discs until 2000 (even then these models are not imported into Australia), you may have to swage the cable ends closer.

Dave
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Post by midi73 »

beanz2 wrote:
midi73 wrote: Yes you will end up with discs on the rear. you will need the backing plate rotors and drum hand brake set up. but as stated above you will need the later 70 housing. You should still be able to use your standard 70 handbrake cable.
Cheers.
Dave.
You'll find the drum brake hand cable is a little bit too long when used in a disc set up. As there are no MWB cruisers equipped with rear discs until 2000 (even then these models are not imported into Australia), you may have to swage the cable ends closer.

Dave
Thanks for that. I wasnt sure on that one. Doesnt sound like to hard a fix though.
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Re: 60 diffs in 70s

Post by jimbo jones »

midi73 wrote:I am putting 60 series diffs in a 70 series cruiser.
I have not taken the 70 diff out yet because I want everything to be done and ready on the 60 housing so i can swap it all over quickly and not have my car off the road long.
Because of this I cant get an accurate measurment of the distance between the spring mounts. Has anyone got a 70s housing with the centre out, and can measure the distance between these mounts across the front of the diff so I know how far to move these mounts in on the 60s diffs.
Thanks for your help.
Dave.

A mate of mine did this to his truck he has a shop called Casper engineering.
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Re: 60 diffs in 70s

Post by midi73 »

jimbo jones wrote:
midi73 wrote:I am putting 60 series diffs in a 70 series cruiser.
I have not taken the 70 diff out yet because I want everything to be done and ready on the 60 housing so i can swap it all over quickly and not have my car off the road long.
Because of this I cant get an accurate measurment of the distance between the spring mounts. Has anyone got a 70s housing with the centre out, and can measure the distance between these mounts across the front of the diff so I know how far to move these mounts in on the 60s diffs.
Thanks for your help.
Dave.
A mate of mine did this to his truck he has a shop called Casper engineering.
Did he do it to the front diff as well? How did he overcome the spring mount riding up the pumkin problem on the right hand side?
Cheers.
Dave.
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Post by midi73 »

Also have you got his contact details so I can ask him.
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Post by midi73 »

Still looking for those details.
Cheers.
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