Min tyre size for beadlocks?

[M1S3RY]

Is there any minimum tyre size for running mechanical beadlocks?

In my case, my Simex are 32" (33" OD) tyres and i'm sick of getting crud in the bead and losing air. Is it worth me getting some of these http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=77907 or would it be a bit of overkill for my 15x7's?

The tyres are usually run at about 18psi in the mud and these are a lot cheaper than internal ones. Also is there any problem using them with tubes?

[Gwagensteve]

There is not really any practical "minimum" size, but a useful point to make might be that smaller tyres won't let you go all that low without loosing too much ground clearance and speding too uch time with the rim sitting on the ground. I think that with a relatively stiff tyre like a simex, you will be OK a 33.

What is the problem with mud in the beads? is it slow leaks? balance? having tyres fall off becuse of the thick wad of mud?

If you are happy at 18 psi, just stick tubes in them and live with the crud.

I don't think that 'pede's work until they are at 8-12psi, which is where beadlocks are the business.

I have run mechanical beadlocks (steel) for over 6 years in my Gwagen. Most people with weld in steel beadlocks put up with some degree of slow leaks, some worse than others. I have bult two sets of rims. Once set leak pretty badly, one set are almost leak free. My own (which I had made for me by a wheelmaker) have always leaked.

This is NOT due to poor welding, but is due to the fact that the inside surface of the tyre is not designed to seal against. There are tricks that can be applied, but unless you are working with a machined alloy like a Walker evans beadlock, I think it is fair to expect some leakage.

You cannot run tubes with mechanical beadlocks. As the tyre flexes, the tube will try and creep into the small gap between the beadlock flange and the tyre and you will pinch tubes.

One of my problems with second airs is that they don't stengthen the rim so when you go low and stuff the rim into the ground they get damaged. Also you can still push the rim and tyre apart, even though it is much harder and it will not result in a flat.

ALso, it is not possible to effectively balance a mechancal beadlock tyre/rim combination. I have never even tried. the weight of the bolts, mud in the flange, imperfect centring of the tyre, often (slightly) uneven alignment of the ring vs the flange and the fact the tyre will still walk about a bit will pretty make any balance pointless.

Having said all that, I love my beadlocks and wouldn't tun anything else. IMHO they are like lockers, once you have had them, you can't be without them.

Steve.

[M1S3RY]

Thanks for the info Steve, looks like i won't be going with them, i'll just stick with the tube idea.