MQ Front Hubs

[Swerve]

Hey All,

Started to pull down the front MQ hubs for the G60 disc conversion.

Feeling rather stupid as I cant even get the thing apart. The freelocking hub has allen key bolts to the next peice that has 8 9/16 bolts into the hub. I tried undoing the all the 9/16 bolts and the freelocking hub will still not come off. Do I need to undo teh allen key bolts to remove the freelocking hubs and then the C-Clip. Looked in the bible and found this

To Fix wheel bearings.....
Jack up rig and remove front wheels
remove locking hubs ( auto or manual hubs)
So is this the freelocking part with allen keys or the peice closer to the hub with 8 x 9/16 bolts ????
remove split pin from tierod end & then remove tierod end ( steering arm between the 2 hubs )
now we concerntrate on the guts of the hub itself.........
remove the 2 spacer shimms ( up against the actual hub, you'll need em out so that the socket will fit in )
remove circlip on the end of the splined drive shaft ( prick of a job !! )
remove inner toothed hub drive from splined drive shaft
straighten out locking tab between the 2 big nuts ( it should be folded both ways over each nut.
Undo and remove the 2 nuts ( 54 mm socket required here)
hub now free to come off
replace bearings and reverse the disasembly process
doing all the front bearings ( king pin included ) should take 5 hours
have a nice day
Kingy

[David_S]

To remove the freewheeling hubs on an MQ just undo the allen screws (the ones with the funny crescent shaped washers under them) and lever off the hub with a big screwdriver or similar. If it does not want to come try tapping the hub lightly with a rubber hammer or ordinary hammer with a block of wood under it - the hubs are alloy.

Once the hub is off you will see the axle end with the circlip on it which Swerve talks about. An expanding pair of circlip pliers and a flat screwdrive are handy to get this off - just don't lose the circlip.

[Swerve]

To remove the freewheeling hubs on an MQ just undo the allen screws (the ones with the funny crescent shaped washers under them) and lever off the hub with a big screwdriver or similar. If it does not want to come try tapping the hub lightly with a rubber hammer or ordinary hammer with a block of wood under it - the hubs are alloy.

Once the hub is off you will see the axle end with the circlip on it which Swerve talks about. An expanding pair of circlip pliers and a flat screwdrive are handy to get this off - just don't lose the circlip.

David,

Thanks for the help. I wouldnt have thought they wanted teh allen key bolts removed on a regular basis. Will look into tonight !

Steve

[V8Patrol]

To Fix wheel bearings.....
Jack up rig and remove front wheels

remove locking hubs ( auto or manual hubs)

remove split pin from tierod end & then remove tierod end ( steering arm between the 2 hubs )
now we concerntrate on the guts of the hub itself.........
remove the 2 spacer shimms ( up against the actual hub, you'll need em out so that the socket will fit in )
remove circlip on the end of the splined drive shaft ( prick of a job !! )
remove inner toothed hub drive from splined drive shaft
straighten out locking tab between the 2 big nuts ( it should be folded both ways over each nut.
Undo and remove the 2 nuts ( 54 mm socket required here)
hub now free to come off
replace bearings and reverse the disasembly process
doing all the front bearings ( king pin included ) should take 5 hours
have a nice day
Kingy

So is this the freelocking part with allen keys or the peice closer to the hub with 8 x 9/16 bolts ????

Free/lock part with the allen key bolt heads

[Swerve]

Well I got one side undone, but the other side is a real bugger.

Ideas to get the allen keys undone ? Should I heat up the steel part ? I dont think WD40 could penetrate where it has to go.

I dont have a butane torch or anything, so I will try boiling wtaer later on !

Arghhh, I hate this shite sometimes

Steve

[gurumon]

i went through a coupla allen keys trying to get those bastard bolts out - i soaked the shite outta them with wd40 and i found if i gave them a big wack with a hammer it kinda loosened them enough to get them to crack

the great news is it doesn't seem to be an age thing - i had to pull the hubs off again a few months after the first time and they'd gone just as tight again

[Mintoy]

Well I got one side undone, but the other side is a real bugger.

Ideas to get the allen keys undone ? Should I heat up the steel part ? I dont think WD40 could penetrate where it has to go.

I dont have a butane torch or anything, so I will try boiling wtaer later on !

Arghhh, I hate this shite sometimes

Steve

try using an impact driver with an allen wrench tip. that should do.

[David_S]

That's funny - I have the opposite problem, the allen screws keep working loose, even when "loctited". I assumed steel screws in alloy casting was the problem and was contemplating using helicoil inserts so it would be steel in steel.

An impact wrench should fix your problem though - every home workshop should have one!