Diff forward on a GQ

[Bartso]

i think what i will do is put a bend in my panhard rod maybe 50mm then put it on top of the diff as well so that will be at least 100mm the diff gets moved forward

[justinshere]

Hey Bartso

How are u goin with the progress, done anything about bending the panhard yet?

Cheers Justin

[Bartso]

na not started yet champ too busy with work i will be taking some time off soon to do all the work

[justinshere]

no worries, keep us informed.

Cheers Justin

[sudso]

just having a look the steering arm itself could be moved forward prob about 100mm without moving the box and parnhrd maybe?

instead can we make a custom panhard that has a bend in it moving it forward?

what kind of mods are we talking about in the steering arm moving it up at diff end or lowering it chassis end?

I dont know about puttin a forward bend in the panhard. Have to look into that. Might work though, would save alot of trouble i think.
If u drop a GU box/arm in there it would lower the draglink on the chassis end. Then jus gotta contend with the panhard.
Check this out, its the GQ and GU box. (Scroll down abit) GU is on the right in the top pic, left in the bottom one.

http://downunder4x4.net/forum/viewtopic ... c&start=80

Rather than swap the GU box/arm i know of a place that makes a Histeer arm for a GQ hub, it lifts the draglink on the hub end 6" Its about $750 though. GU box/arm is prob cheaper...

Cheers

Wouldn't there be a hell of a lot of leverage on a 6" Hi-steer and the steering knuckle?

I've heard the GU stg. box swap drops the drag link down about 2.5". If a high steer was then made to suit your lift (say 6" for example like mine) then it would only have to be 3.5" high at the hub end creating less leverage and stress on the Hi-steer and knuckle and would pretty much level out the drag link, giving an even amount of travel both ways without binding, depending on the ratio of droop and compression though.

Then you could extend your panhard mount bracket at the chassis end and raise the bracket at the diff end to get the panhard parallel with the drag link. Fabricate them so the brackets are forward a bit as well to give you diff clearance. Gusset the lot.
Where you extend the chassis side bracket, weld in a triangle gusset to it behind it and rearwards to the chassis, same to the axle tube.

I think you'd end up with a happy medium of clearance and the best axis for them to pivot on. This is how they are at standard height anyway: parallel and horizontal.

Now I'm interested to hear if what I said makes sense cos I aint no engineer but it makes sense to me, although it would be more wok if you're moving your diff forward 50mm or so.

cheers, sudso