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solid front end with pics finished pics
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
y
there are no plans to plate the steering box i wasnt even going to remove it i will be welding plates in were the upper control arms brackets were just to neatin it up a bit. should be picking up the rest of my parts on thursday so if i have the grinding done this week i should have everything welded next week cant wait
Re: y
dreama wrote:there are no plans to plate the steering box i wasnt even going to remove it i will be welding plates in were the upper control arms brackets were just to neatin it up a bit. should be picking up the rest of my parts on thursday so if i have the grinding done this week i should have everything welded next week cant wait
move the box forward and plate it - you dont want to risk ripping it off the frame and cracking it
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Moving the box forward is not needed unless you are moving the axle way forward. The steering box section of the frame is not designed for the amount of side forces you are going to get with the solid axle swap and they are very prone to cracking i plated mine both sides with a 6mm plate just to be sure it wont fail.
I have seen failures on chassies without this plating and it makes a mess thatr is twice as hard to fix and could also see you stuck in a realy bad situation if it snapes in the middle of the bush or even worse while driving down the road.
I have seen failures on chassies without this plating and it makes a mess thatr is twice as hard to fix and could also see you stuck in a realy bad situation if it snapes in the middle of the bush or even worse while driving down the road.
steering box reinforcing
thanks for the advice on the steering box ruff today i had a closer inspection the chassis rail allready has two small cracks so today i cut some plates i will post photos some photos tomorow
finally
finaly this weekend i weld done abit of brain storming about the ass end one of my mates has just finished his conversion and used 50mm lift blocks and 1inch extended shacles to make up the hieght difference in the rear. im not to impressed with how it looks and dont think it will work to well so i will be cutting the old shackle mounts of and weld a 75mm block to the chassis and weld a under chassis shackle mount on so i can run a standard greaseble shackle this way it will be 100% legal. so i will have new photos and more progress reports on monday
Re: alright
dreama wrote:just ran a sample weld and i have the go ahead for tomorow there were some douts on wether the mig was big enough but its all good now so there will be photos sunday night
can't wait

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hmmmm
not a very productive day got the rear blocks welded the crossmember welded on u bolt flip kit in the front on steering box plate welded on had hoped for more but as allways ran in to a few problems but will progress more through the week
ok
yes they are ifs reaer springs they measure in at about 52 inches
the shackle mount at the rear of the front spring goes hard against the bottom of chassis rail were as a standard hilux the shackle bolts up through the chassis rail the blocks in the photo were made up for the rear springs purely to make up the hieght difference rather than running a extended shackle and lift blocks
this aftternoon i ran into yet another problem the rear shackle mount on the front springs fall in the bend on the chassis rail so half the shackle mount is 30mm off the side of the chassis rail so now i need to make up yet another block to build up the distance on yhe inside of the chassis rail there was a hell of alot of bad words used this afternoon and i now no that nothing is as simple as it looks and i hate four wheel drives
the shackle mount at the rear of the front spring goes hard against the bottom of chassis rail were as a standard hilux the shackle bolts up through the chassis rail the blocks in the photo were made up for the rear springs purely to make up the hieght difference rather than running a extended shackle and lift blocks
this aftternoon i ran into yet another problem the rear shackle mount on the front springs fall in the bend on the chassis rail so half the shackle mount is 30mm off the side of the chassis rail so now i need to make up yet another block to build up the distance on yhe inside of the chassis rail there was a hell of alot of bad words used this afternoon and i now no that nothing is as simple as it looks and i hate four wheel drives
dreama wrote:the time and money factor and plain and simpley just had enough because of this conversion i now no longer want a four wheel drive i have just had enough
dude dont give up so easy half the fun is building your rig up
my POS has been driven off road like 3 times this year and has spent the rest of the time in the garage busted up or half way through mods.
Stick with it once you get it together go for a wheel and it will all be worth it
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Re: over
dreama wrote:this is now something i would not recomend for someone to have a shot at if you want this conversion pay someone to do it but even then i would be going it over with a fine tooth comb when it was finished this car will still be finished it will be different specs though the dual transfers are now sold and the springs will be approx 49inches and the aframe shock kit is gone
Im guessing you are swapping springs because of the forward half of the IFS spring being so long?
Have you welded the dropped hanger in the stock position or moved it forward some?
In order to run the IFS in the front you must move the front mount forward 4" total and usually down 2" to clear the pitman arm on full compression.
To run Stock non IFS rears in the front you realy need to be forward at least 1" and again down the 2" to clear the pitman arm.
With both of these set-ups you will prob have to run castor wedges under the diff to get the steering right or rotate the knuckles.
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