Pics of my 4bd1 turbo intercooler setup

[andrew e]

I have been playing with this for over a year now and i'm almost ready to bolt up.

I made a dummy of my head with all the same spacing between holes as the inlet and exhaust.

It will poke through the bonnet a touch, but i already have a spare bonnet with a supercharger hole cut, so i need to make up a small cowling.

The dump pipe was cut in half and flipped 180 degrees and re welded.

Specs,

- centermount turbo manifold from turboglide (i think it id the same as the genuine isuzu)

- Nissan RB20 ceramic ball bearing turbo

- Toyota supra twin turbo water to air intercooler

- NPR PE 850 inlet manifold ( bigger center mount inlet )

- 3" mandrel stainless exhaust.

- Fully sick pretty coloured silicon hoses.















Andy

[ISUZUROVER]

Holy bonnet bulge batman!!!

Looks good though - like to see it installed.

[def90]

andrew be weary of the ceramic wheels as apparently they dont stand up to the heat of a turbo well and disintegrate (i got rid of my RB20 turbo partly for this reason)

[def90]

oops i mean the heat of a diesel well.

this is what i have been told by various people, when they go they cause large amounts of damage.

[andrew e]

i better get the lpg injection setup done aswell then

[andrew e]

Holy bonnet bulge batman!!!

I hope you mean the car! in which case, its getting done.








Still getting the turbo connected, as it is my daily driver 6 days a week i can't take it off the road for more than 24 hours. So i'm making it so EVERYTHING just bolts on. If i can fit somthing before the turbo, I am.


So far costs are.....


Exhaust manifold $380
Turbo $350
Water to air int. $250
silicon pipes $125
EGT guage and sensor $215
boost guage $37
Intake manifold $25
gaskets $10

TOTAL $1392


Things i didnt need to buy because i had them laying around (as you do) are:

3 inch stainless pipe, a muffler, and mandrel bends.
3 inch stainless radcoflex
Half a sheet of 3mm ally
Spare bonnet
Radiator hose
Wiring
Water temp guage
Offcuts - intake pipe, brackets etc
Oil and water lines to the turbo


Hours spent so far - atleast 80-100!

+ 20 grey hairs and a recieding hair line.....( im 24 by the way)


Andy

[justinC]

Looks pretty purposeful Andy, HURRY up ( As I know what its like to be almost ready for the first drive!) and get it running so we can all see/hear what its like.

Well done with all the fabrication work, looks pretty well thought out and methodical.

JC

[andrew e]

( As I know what its like to be almost ready for the first drive!) and get it running so we can all see/hear what its like.
JC

Yeah, very anxious to get it running Justin. How have you got your crankcase and rocker cover breather set up? i know factory 4bd1t has a crankcase breather on the drivers side, (i was just going to extend mine out of the way) but what about the rocker cover one? I think DEF90 is running his into some sort of catch can.

Also, anyone know whats involved in setting up a boost compensator on the fuel pump? is it worth the stuffing around?


Andy.

[ISUZUROVER]

( As I know what its like to be almost ready for the first drive!) and get it running so we can all see/hear what its like.
JC

Yeah, very anxious to get it running Justin. How have you got your crankcase and rocker cover breather set up? i know factory 4bd1t has a crankcase breather on the drivers side, (i was just going to extend mine out of the way) but what about the rocker cover one? I think DEF90 is running his into some sort of catch can.

Also, anyone know whats involved in setting up a boost compensator on the fuel pump? is it worth the stuffing around?


Andy.

I know others with the crankcase breather set up like you are suggesting - works fine. To fit a boost compensator (aeneroid) you would need to find an injector pump with one and either fit that to your pump or fit the other pump - probably best left to a diesel injection place though...

[justinC]

Hi Andrew

I am currently having rust prevention treatment on my Chassis rail from the engine breather.

The N/A engines had their breather on the passenger side, I just modded the outlet pipe slightly to clear the dump pipe and manifold plumbing, running it down behind the LH engine mounting area.

I wouldn't worry about the boost controller. If yours is anything like mine, I have awesome spool up and almost zero lag, in any gear.

Fuel economy is great now I've wound the fuel back a little, and the LT95 is going well now.

I will mention also that it will eat a chipped Td5 for low down torque, and will accelerate better in 4th gear also. AND NO ELECTRONICS!!!!

I have just changed my high range gearing from .996:1 to 1.113:1, when I fit the 285/75 MTR's the gearing will be back to about how it was with the .996:1 gears, which was perfect for towing and touring.

Keep at it.

JC

[ISUZUROVER]

I wouldn't worry about the boost controller. If yours is anything like mine, I have awesome spool up and almost zero lag, in any gear.

Justin, I have probably asked you before - but what turbo are you running? And any idea of the A/R trim?

[justinC]

Hi Ben,
A/R .48 exhaust hoiusing, and it is a watercooled Garrett TB25. Rectangular flange version bolts straight to the Turboglide manifold.

Very happy with it.

JC

[ISUZUROVER]

Thanks mate - did you buy it new or take it off a vehicle - if so what?

[justinC]

I bought it new, about 1200 clams from memory. Garrett agent in Devonport, Statewide turbocharger sales, Gary is his name and very helpful.

I don't remember if I posted this before, but the front mount air to air IC works extremely well, as the difference in temps between inlet and outlet is very noticeable. I will get some actual readings for you when I get my infa red temp probe back from the person who still has it!!!!!

It must be exchanging quite alot of heat, as the aircon condenser is behind it and the AC drops off in performance when hammering it up a long hill!!

JC

[ISUZUROVER]

Thanks again mate. Deciding at the moment if I will go for an air-air or water-air intercooler (really aftercooler).

Andrew - (sorry for the hijack) got it installed yet - any updates?

[andrew e]

Put the turbo on on sunday, made up a temporary 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust with side exit just behind the rear door. Breather was easy to extend as was the dipstick. The aicleaner had to be moved several inces toward the drivers side. I Haven't put the new intake manifold on yet as it was too much work for one day, so i'm running the stock LR4bd1 I.M. I Chopped the drain pipe for the vaccuume pump and used this for the oil feeder to the turbo.

Started it, let it run for a minute or so, then took it for a test drive. Pulled better on take off and in the mid and higher rev range (a bit more noisy too) Then it blew the oil inlet off the turbo (it was only designed as a drain, not preassure) as i was turning into my loveley stenciled concrete driveway and dumped 5 or 6 liters of diesel oil. not happy. i gave the driveway a quick wipe and left it for monday.

Monday morning i repaired the blown pipe with 400psi rated stuff and started the car to get it warm. It then started to blow oil out the exhaust. Bugger. Turbo oil seals were shot. I had to organise transport to work (this is my daily driver 6 days a week). Luckly my Father had a spare td5 110 laying around not being driven, so i borrowed it for a few days.

Tuesday i swapped the turbo, and even though it had no warranty (i bought it 18 months ago) The guys i bought it form still gave me another (SSS inports in Girraween). Actually the new one is off a nissan v6 or somthing, but it has the same flanges and dump pipe as the other RB20 one. The difference is the intake is slightly larger so it spools up easier or earlier or somthing. I also asked about the ceramic part and what makes them fail, and the guys there reckon that they are ok with higher temps, but dont like higher boost. Anything over 11psi and it could come to bits.

Wednesday i Installed the new turbo and changed the oil drain from the origional vac pump one to a fitting running directly into the side of the engine (similar to the crank case breather, but in the cover infront of that one) This way it is atleast 20 mm pipe all the way without restriction from the turbo, back to the engine. (i origionally put a pipe fitting into the sump, but it ended up being below the oil level and aparently this is a no no).

Thursday, test Drive properly, down to car lovers to wash all the oil off the underside ( the driveway is still covered much to my wifes discust). I made it to the servo (about 7 or 8 kms) and stopped to check everything and noticed a constant drip, drip, drip, coming from the engine. Bugger where did i put the matches again.....
Drove home, and i just hadn't tightened the bolts in the side cover the day before. So Tightened these and third time lucky (very hesitant though). She boosts up tu 7 psi about half way through the rev range (no tacho yet). Hills are a bit easier and now and i dont have to put my foot down as far. Then I drove it on the freeway and took it up to 110 (max speed still with 35s). Heaps better power (way faster than my dads unchipped td5). I dont have an intake air temp sensor (its on the on the other inlet manifold) but i do have a water temp sensor in the water outlet of the intercooler, this got up to 60 deg c. So i can only assume the air would be similar temp. EGTs were at 280 on the flat and 400 when on a gentle hill (still at 110).

I will update with photos and 0 to 100 comparisons after the driveways clean......



Andy

[ISUZUROVER]

Have you increased the fuelling yet?

So you are using the oil drain from the vac pump as the oil feed for the turbo? I have heard that is a bad idea, but can't remember why... How is everyone else doing it? AFAIK the genuine 4BD1Ts have an oil line from near the filter?

[up2nogood]

Have you increased the fuelling yet?

So you are using the oil drain from the vac pump as the oil feed for the turbo? I have heard that is a bad idea, but can't remember why... How is everyone else doing it? AFAIK the genuine 4BD1Ts have an oil line from near the filter?

You need to feed pressurised oil to the turbo. But I think he is running pressurised oil to the turbo, but I can't make out where from.

[ISUZUROVER]

You need to feed pressurised oil to the turbo. But I think he is running pressurised oil to the turbo, but I can't make out where from.

From the vacuum pump drain if you read the text Andy posted, but I am not sure if that would be pressurised.

[460cixy]

t peice fitted to where you fit your oil light switch or gauge thats where you need to get the oil from it needs to be at fed at full oil presure

[andrew e]

You need to feed pressurised oil to the turbo. But I think he is running pressurised oil to the turbo, but I can't make out where from.

From the vacuum pump drain if you read the text Andy posted, but I am not sure if that would be pressurised.

Correct. works ok so far, if the inlet of the vaccuume pump is preassurised, the outlet would be the same. The vac guage still reads the same as before, so i assume its all OK. Its what they do at the turbo install places from what i'm told. I think DEF90 is running his the same. The factory turbo 4bd1s run oil preassure from the drivers side of the block (i have photos somewhere).

No i havent increased the fuel yet, how do you do this? Don't you need a dyno or can you go off the EGT?

Andy

[def90]

andy mate you haven't felt anything until you increase the fuel!!

i picked up my truck after the turbo install and was about to take it back as it was only about 5% better, then turned up the fuel and she flew (well kind of )

on the side of your fuel pump there will be a screw/mini bolt (probably has a little plastic cap over it which you will need to knock off) turn this a few times and feel the power, i just screwed mine up until she blew smoke, then half a turn or so backward. my EGT is pretty happy with that guesstimate. can't remember if its clockwise or anti? but you'll work it out after a turn or 2. the screw is on the horizontal plane, not vertical.

do this and post your response!!

[Bush65]

My 4BD1-T came out of an Isuzu truck, not a rover, so it probably has a different govenor on the injection pump. There are differences in the govenors on different Isuzu trucks.

In simplistic terms, the govenor adjusts the amount of fuel by displacing the control rack, which turns the sleeves that vary the effective stroke of the 4 pump plungers (one for each injector).

On mine there is a maximum fuel lever in the govenor. The pivot shaft for the maximum fuel lever runs across the govenor, below the end of the control rack . The end of the shaft for the maximum fuel lever protrudes through the rhand side of the casing. This shaft has a lever which stops against an adjustment screw with a tamperproof shroud.
Screwing this out allows the control rack to travel further and increase the fuel delivery.

On the rhand side of the 4BD1-T, there is an external oil pipe which runs up from the filter to a block on the rear of the oil cooler. The oil delivery pipe to the turbo runs from the rear of this block, around the rear of the engine to the turbo.

[andrew e]

Decided to get a propper hose made for the oil feed for the turbo. instead of running series with the vac pump, it now will be parrallel.

I made a double banjo bolt, and now the turbo is fed from the inlet of the vac pump as opposed to the drain. My engine doesnt have the oil pickup near the filter.

I'll get pics up of the complete installed setup soon

Andy.

[andrew e]

Pics of the setup installed.




This is why i needed the bonnet buldge.





Pics of the turbo and water pipes





This is where i put the radiator for the water to air. there is getting less and less room under my ever expanding bonnet.



all the extra gauges ive added since the turbo





Now for the tech part, which screw on my fuel pump do i turn and how much do i turn it?






Andy

[def90]

andrew screw B is your friend!!

do it, do it now

[justinC]

Andrew, unscrew screw B, the one that touches that little spring loaded cam , to richen. I went at least 3 turns with mine, but got a bit hot in the EGT department.(650+++) Hook up the guage first then have a play. By the way, I had the oil out the exhaust problem too, and cured it by doing what you did, add a seperate drain for the turbo oil . This is a common thing called flooding, where the bearing housing backs up with oil due to the drain being too restrictive or not big enough for the vac pump oil also. The oil has nowwhere else to go but out into the exhaust housing....

Looks good under there, wind up the fuel and give us a report.

JC

[mickrangie]

Top Job!!

Would one of these engine fit a RRC with a 2" body lift?

[Maggot4x4]

Top Job!!

Would one of these engine fit a RRC with a 2" body lift?

[andrew e]

there are a few getting around. maggot and has one already, and so does justinc. would be easier to run a 3 inch exhaust between the chassis rails in a rangie with a BL, as my county i have to butcher the firewall.

Andy