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new wheels picked up tongiht :)

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Post by christover1 »

vicelore wrote:i think i herd there was a way to limit the travel when turning hows that work ?
I haven't done it, as my rims are offset heaps and don't come anywhere near chassis.
But I'm told you can replace 1 of the bolts that hold swivel hub on, with a longer stronger 1, so it hits stopper a little earlier.

Cost = $0 + bolt
Time = 5mins.

But haven't dome this.
No doubt Steve has, tho.

Wheel spacers are very dear, but work. I borrowed some before modded rims. Modifying rims is cheaper..but wheel spacers are easy to take off if need be.

christover
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Post by suzuki boy »

Got off set rims -15 from speedy wheels for $45 each! There the same as the old cj jeep wheels :cool: ! That could be what your after!
Built swb sierra, building a lwb sierra ute and have a dmax for family camping
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Post by Bad JuJu »

Dont use 7" rims they have max -15 offset.
Get 8" rims from CJ or F100/Bronco they should be -28.

I had spring rubbage on 7"rims , got 8mm clearance on 8" wide rims.

Or you could get spacers, limit turning circle or have your rims offset adjusted.
Posting quality not quantity!

Wanted: Stock HiLux Front Leaf Springs
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Post by just cruizin' »

vicelore wrote:still really unsure what way to go on this.

i get a fair bit of rub on the wheels when locked aswell . should i be using wheel spacers ? or seomthing ?

its starting to look like i bit off more than i expected with the wheels.

:(
Where is it rubbing, inside of tyre at the rear or front, or outside of tyre on firewall. Have you tested it at flex yet?

Offset may help or make it worse depends where and how it rubs.
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Post by vicelore »

it seemed to rub on the innerside of the tread . straight onto the spring.

i was on the road just turning . i spose i will just have to limit my turning circle.

i havent tested it at flex yet . not to sure how i would do it. ????

just run it up a bump ?
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Post by jtraf »

to test flex......use a piece of chain and a trolley jack.

Place the chain over the chassis and run it under the trolley jack. Then secure it so that it can't extend. Lift the jack and the chain will stop the car lifting and compress the spring to simulate offroad action.

Then you can turn the tyres and see where it will hit. This is how I did mine when I modded the ineer guard for the swampers......I don't want to drive and see as I have heards others say cause big tyres cost to much to stuff up cause you are too impatient to do it the right way.

Without spacing forward you will have to hack alot of the firewall. You will have to extend the front bump stop 50mm but shouldn't have to worry about the back.

And remember modding cars is fun. That is what I keep telling myself when working on mine........One day I might actually start to believe it.

James
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Post by vicelore »

im not to sure what u mean by the chain and jack process. sorry blonde moment i think.

how much do you think will have to come out the firewall ?

i have been looking at it. and i recon that the back of the tyre is about half a inch into the firewall at max. unless when it flexes it moves backwards on its arch.
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Post by vicelore »

for example i kinda looked at cuttin back to wehre the line is in this pic.
Image
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Post by just cruizin' »

vicelore wrote:it seemed to rub on the innerside of the tread . straight onto the spring.

i was on the road just turning . i spose i will just have to limit my turning circle.

i havent tested it at flex yet . not to sure how i would do it. ????

just run it up a bump ?
Did it rub the front or the back of the spring, your wheels look to have a decent offset I would have thought you would have had more trouble with the outside rubbing on the firewall.

I'd try Christover's diff relocation and see whether this fixes the problem and see for yourself the effects it has. Afterall you can always move it back and you have only lost one afternoon worth of effort. Cutting into the firewall is pretty drastic and would be my very last option.
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Post by jtraf »

double post
Last edited by jtraf on Sun Dec 03, 2006 9:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by jtraf »

You need to see under compression what you need to cut.

Compress the spring till you hit the bump stop. Then turn it side to side and see where it hits. Then cut as much as you need so that it doesn't hit.

I don't know how much you will need to cut. All I know is you need to cut till it don't hit no more.

Less likely to hit when straight but when turning you will. BFH helps a lot as does a 4in grinder and mig welder...

heres a picture for ya........feeling very artistic tonight
Image
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Post by vicelore »

hehe thanks allot for the pic man . nice to see the effort.

i can see how it would work now.

1st thing iv got organised was get the bumper back on so i can drive it with blinkers and a number plate.

im prety sure ill be cuttin the firewall. ill let yas know how its goin.
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Post by vicelore »

hey guys was just wondering before i make up these front bump stop extensions.

should i be moving for a 50 mm extension ? iv herd that number going around so i take it thats what ill need.

wouldnt recomend goin any longer ? as far as i understand the longer the extension the less upward travel and less cutting i will have to do.

tho i do understand that we need upward travel or it would be ruff as anyhting.

Cheers guys
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Dee
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Post by Dee »

If you are not going to cut your guards to make use of the uptravel your springs have, then extend your bumpstops to stop hitting the guards.

You will loose some uptravel, but your tyres will no longer rub. If you ever want the uptravel, you can always just remove the bump stop extensions, and have a crack at cutting the guards then.

You need to flex it up to a point where you are happy with your tyres clearing the guards. Remember to turn the wheel etc and make sure there is no rubbing.

Once you think you have it as high as you can without rubbing, measure the distance between the bumpstop and diff. This is how far you have to extend your bumpstops.
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Post by vicelore »

thanks man .

i defently am goin to get some cutting done . i just thaguht i might have to make the bumpstops first at the right flex. then cut the guards/firewall etc to suite the flex.

Cheers
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Post by jtraf »

You will need at minimum 50mm spacer.........

Even then you will need to trim firewall and headlight bucket....
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Post by vicelore »

is that a general rule for 32s or just what u hvae seen ?

like would i lose allot if i maybey wen 60 mm ?

im not to sure how much it flexes with such a light body never really got to see it in action as i was always behind the wheel.
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Post by Daniel »

mate,

i run 32's on my zook, i bashed the seam on the firewall, i also pissed off the standard front zook bar, this way know rubbing at all.
you can cut your gaurds right out, but you can get away with just bashing \.

Dan!
uh huh
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Post by jtraf »

These tyres are 33.4in in dimension. Not a small 32in type tyre.

I had to cut a lot more than my brother and my swampers are only marginally larger than his pede's....

stop thinking and spending time on the puter get to cutting and bashing....
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Post by Dee »

If i was in your situation (not that i have a zook, but i want one, and read the zuk section from time to time) I would do what christover suggested in the 32 thread you started.

Buy/make extended shackles. 40 - 50mm = roughly 20 - 25mm lift?

Move front diff foward.. 20 - 25mm? (easy, and can be undone, no welding needed)

Then, bash your guards/seams etc as much as possible (without destroying them)

Once youve got your axle centred in the wheel well (moved foward) and as much room as you can in the wheel well, extend your bumpstops to required length to limit uptravel and prevent rubbing.

From there, if you wanted to stuff the wheels right in, you would start looking at cutting guards.
Theres a thread on here, (canberrazook in members thread) where canberramav removed his flares, cut his outer edge of the body/guards into tabs, folded them under and riveted them back, and then fiberglassed and painted over it all, to open up the wheel wells alot more.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... sc&start=0

http://www.geocities.com/redidbull1/wheelwells.html

If it were my zook, (and wanted to fit 32 - 33" tyres) i would look at doing this, matching it with some wider offset wheels to clear the springs/inner guards, and attaching some wider/new flares over the cut guards to cover the wider stance with the bigger offset rims...
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Post by vicelore »

hey man yea they defently are to big to drive on them like this.

but have made up my mind . i got refered to someone in cranbourne that does nothing but this.

booked it in for the 13th. so im pretty sure he will be modding the firewall and probaly just flatening out the rest of the arch.

so yup no more puter time lol. just waitin for the bumper to be finished so i can get it to his shop.

i did think about moving the diff but i dont really wanna screw with the suspension. as i think moving the drive shaft and diffs is allot more dodgy than chopping a inch out the firewall.

hopefully i can save the flares or modify them to look stock again. if not well i spose ill be puttin on some jeep ones or seomthing.

Cheers again for all the imput guys will have some pics up soon for yas.
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Post by cohunas »

any updates?
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Post by vicelore »

yup

its in the shop today . im gettin the diff moved around 20 ml forward. decided that was the easiest way and reversable.
i think i may need to test it for clearance afterwards might need some love tapping on the headlight buckets. not to sure .

i am defently looking forward to getting it home tongiht tho.

was like having a cold beer in the fridge u just cant drink. having it sit in the shed. lol
91 SWB sierra, 2in spring lift, 2in BL 32 simex ETs, Series 4 RH gearing.

[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=110288&highlight=]My build up thread[/url]
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Post by vicelore »

ok guys a bit of a update.

got it home from the doctors today. he moved the diff forward 20 mil wasnt a big deal . cost me 100$ for the job.

i also baught a tail shaft spacer for 92 bucks shiped. gonna be fittin that this weekend clearance looked pretty good on the ramp . cant wait to see it in the bush. Cheers guys
91 SWB sierra, 2in spring lift, 2in BL 32 simex ETs, Series 4 RH gearing.

[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=110288&highlight=]My build up thread[/url]
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Post by cj »

vicelore wrote:ok guys a bit of a update.

got it home from the doctors today. he moved the diff forward 20 mil wasnt a big deal . cost me 100$ for the job.

i also baught a tail shaft spacer for 92 bucks shiped. gonna be fittin that this weekend clearance looked pretty good on the ramp . cant wait to see it in the bush. Cheers guys


There's a trip on Saturday now if you can make it.
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Post by christover1 »

cj wrote:
vicelore wrote:ok guys a bit of a update.

got it home from the doctors today. he moved the diff forward 20 mil wasnt a big deal . cost me 100$ for the job.

i also baught a tail shaft spacer for 92 bucks shiped. gonna be fittin that this weekend clearance looked pretty good on the ramp . cant wait to see it in the bush. Cheers guys


There's a trip on Saturday now if you can make it.
And another Wednesday
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Post by cohunas »

good work man, have you reduced the gears yet?
1st low will be pretty tall with those big tyres if it's still stock.
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