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Dying at idle
Dying at idle
After a a weekend wheelin session my zook doesnt want to idle. I had the same problem a few months back but it disappeared after a bit of fiddling with the carby (sprayed carby cleaner and hand over carbie and reving) Now it has popped up again. When i put my clutch in it dies aswell.
What are some of the ways i can clean out my carbie. Dont really want to get it reco'd as im short on $$$ at the moment.
Any help would be appreciated.
What are some of the ways i can clean out my carbie. Dont really want to get it reco'd as im short on $$$ at the moment.
Any help would be appreciated.
Hardcore Wheelin' www.ozwheelers.net
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
Mine use4d to do this but hasn't done it for a while(Touch wood)!
Pul the air intake bit off the top of the carbie get it at high revs and stick your hand over the top of it! Do it a couple of times and your hand will be covered in crap but it should idel again!
Pul the air intake bit off the top of the carbie get it at high revs and stick your hand over the top of it! Do it a couple of times and your hand will be covered in crap but it should idel again!
Built swb sierra, building a lwb sierra ute and have a dmax for family camping
Sanger,
Basically, take of 4 large bolts that hold the top of the carb on, and the few screws around it. You also need to take of the clip that hold the bar that works the choke. If you take of the top slowly, you will see if anything is still caught. You will need to take the bolt out of the plunger assembly as well. The idle jet is the one that has a rectangular top with a hole in it. Just pull it out and give it a good clean. I always had this problem after 4WDing, so go to the local parts place, buy the smallest filter you can, and put it in as close to the carb as possible. This has fixed all my probs.
Basically, take of 4 large bolts that hold the top of the carb on, and the few screws around it. You also need to take of the clip that hold the bar that works the choke. If you take of the top slowly, you will see if anything is still caught. You will need to take the bolt out of the plunger assembly as well. The idle jet is the one that has a rectangular top with a hole in it. Just pull it out and give it a good clean. I always had this problem after 4WDing, so go to the local parts place, buy the smallest filter you can, and put it in as close to the carb as possible. This has fixed all my probs.
Appreciate the help ZOOK92. Wouldnt have a pic of the carb set up with arrows pointing to the pieces you are referring to. Carbies scare meZOOK92 wrote:Sanger,
Basically, take of 4 large bolts that hold the top of the carb on, and the few screws around it. You also need to take of the clip that hold the bar that works the choke. If you take of the top slowly, you will see if anything is still caught. You will need to take the bolt out of the plunger assembly as well. The idle jet is the one that has a rectangular top with a hole in it. Just pull it out and give it a good clean. I always had this problem after 4WDing, so go to the local parts place, buy the smallest filter you can, and put it in as close to the carb as possible. This has fixed all my probs.
Hardcore Wheelin' www.ozwheelers.net
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
ZOOK92 wrote:Sanger,
Basically, take of 4 large bolts that hold the top of the carb on, and the few screws around it. You also need to take of the clip that hold the bar that works the choke. If you take of the top slowly, you will see if anything is still caught. You will need to take the bolt out of the plunger assembly as well. The idle jet is the one that has a rectangular top with a hole in it. Just pull it out and give it a good clean. I always had this problem after 4WDing, so go to the local parts place, buy the smallest filter you can, and put it in as close to the carb as possible. This has fixed all my probs.
2nd the filter comment. I run a small filter between the pump and the carby. Zook fuel pumps tend to shed bits of rubber from the diaphram as they age, and often this can get stuck in the idle jets (the jet is really small) causing isuess. Clean your barby out, and fit the filter (about $10 all up) and see how you go.
Layto....
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Well buggerised round today taking the top of the carby off and giving it a good clean. Cleaned out idle jet and put it all together and still running like a POS. Not sure if i'm even chasing the right thing but to me it seems its got to be carby related.
Im stuck for ideas.
Im stuck for ideas.
Hardcore Wheelin' www.ozwheelers.net
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
How hard is it to set up the 4k carb? Do u need adapters etc??? Im really considering changing carbs but am unsure of which way to go.nicbeer wrote:Use a Z200 EFI filter between the pump and chassis pipe.
You could chuck on a toyo 4k carb to make it easier to work on.
Nic
Keep the advice coming guys.
Hardcore Wheelin' www.ozwheelers.net
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
carb bolts on with studs instead of the bolts. mild mods to acc bracket for cable with hammer and thats about it.
needs a tune prob to suit motor (idle,mixture)
manual choke system, you can hook up if u want
aircleaner is not the best fit on there as toyo is slightly smaller opening at the top.
bout it. cant comment on fuel eco as mine was only offroad and getting thrashed.
Nic
needs a tune prob to suit motor (idle,mixture)
manual choke system, you can hook up if u want
aircleaner is not the best fit on there as toyo is slightly smaller opening at the top.
bout it. cant comment on fuel eco as mine was only offroad and getting thrashed.
Nic
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Thanks for info nicbeer. Sounds like its a feasible option. Just wondering what other people have ran as carbies on their 1.3.
Post up what carbie your running. Not keen on webber as i drive steep rock.
Post up what carbie your running. Not keen on webber as i drive steep rock.
Hardcore Wheelin' www.ozwheelers.net
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
around the $40 -$50 for a kit
if you think its a dirty jet look down the carby when its running and see if the fuel mixture is rough coming out or a nice atomized spray , thats the easiest way to tell if you are chasing the right problem
swap leads 3and 4 over and start it and get it to back fire a bit will also help clear the jets for a quick fix
fuel cut off soleniod working properly ? if its faulty it will run above idle but cut out when at idle , just turn ignition on but not running and disconnect and reconnect and listen if you can hear it click on and off. , all so check your cap leads and plugs , oh and your pcv valve if stuck open can cause this symptom too but more than likey it gets block ( which wont effect idle) not held open .
cheers jai
if you think its a dirty jet look down the carby when its running and see if the fuel mixture is rough coming out or a nice atomized spray , thats the easiest way to tell if you are chasing the right problem
swap leads 3and 4 over and start it and get it to back fire a bit will also help clear the jets for a quick fix
fuel cut off soleniod working properly ? if its faulty it will run above idle but cut out when at idle , just turn ignition on but not running and disconnect and reconnect and listen if you can hear it click on and off. , all so check your cap leads and plugs , oh and your pcv valve if stuck open can cause this symptom too but more than likey it gets block ( which wont effect idle) not held open .
cheers jai
if its worth doing do it intensly , better still do it with MADPASSION
set your limits way beyond your abilities
set your limits way beyond your abilities
Spray out of idle jet and the primary jet look ok. But at idle i cant seem to see any fuel being suirted at all.
I checked fuel cut off solenoid at it clicks on and off so i presume its ok.
The carby has had top half taken off and idle jet and cut off solenoid been blown out as well as and gunk that was seen.
Checked plugs they were very loose but tightend them back up and made no dif.
Fuel pump has been replaced and pumps short strong bursts of fuel.
Choke seems to be working fine (closes off when cold and opens when warm)
No vacuum leaks that i could find.
Symptoms are
-idles when first started at bout 1500rpm due to choke
-once warm will not idle more than 3 secs then stalls
-when driving drepressing the clutch causes stalling
-Drives ok when accelerating
Just wondering if a bad o2 sensor could cause this.
Also could a head gasket leak have these symptoms cause radiator fluid looks bit milky.
I checked fuel cut off solenoid at it clicks on and off so i presume its ok.
The carby has had top half taken off and idle jet and cut off solenoid been blown out as well as and gunk that was seen.
Checked plugs they were very loose but tightend them back up and made no dif.
Fuel pump has been replaced and pumps short strong bursts of fuel.
Choke seems to be working fine (closes off when cold and opens when warm)
No vacuum leaks that i could find.
Symptoms are
-idles when first started at bout 1500rpm due to choke
-once warm will not idle more than 3 secs then stalls
-when driving drepressing the clutch causes stalling
-Drives ok when accelerating
Just wondering if a bad o2 sensor could cause this.
Also could a head gasket leak have these symptoms cause radiator fluid looks bit milky.
Hardcore Wheelin' www.ozwheelers.net
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
Have the same problems listed mate.. how did you go about fixing them!?? 1298cc??sanger wrote: No vacuum leaks that i could find.
Symptoms are
-idles when first started at bout 1500rpm due to choke
-once warm will not idle more than 3 secs then stalls
-when driving drepressing the clutch causes stalling
-Drives ok when accelerating
Just wondering if a bad o2 sensor could cause this.
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
Yea its a 1.3.foolsp33d wrote:Have the same problems listed mate.. how did you go about fixing them!?? 1298cc??sanger wrote: No vacuum leaks that i could find.
Symptoms are
-idles when first started at bout 1500rpm due to choke
-once warm will not idle more than 3 secs then stalls
-when driving drepressing the clutch causes stalling
-Drives ok when accelerating
Just wondering if a bad o2 sensor could cause this.
Had a mate of mine put a rebuild lit through the carby and changed fuel filters. There was heaps of crap in the carby and traces of water as well.
Hope you sought it out.
Hardcore Wheelin' www.ozwheelers.net
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
still chasing problems witht eh carbie.. seems to 'run high' pulling up at lights, btween gear chnages etc unless a 'blip' of the throttle is done.. otherwise idle is around the 1500 mark, after a 'blip' down to the 800-1k mark.. strange.. possibly a vacume line but i cant souce as to which one! Argh. figured that i could of used some pics when i was looking for info and this is a good a spot as any for em
1.3 lt Aisan carbie..off a 85 drover.. at least now people can copy the pics and cirlce bits or arrow points of interest...
1.3 lt Aisan carbie..off a 85 drover.. at least now people can copy the pics and cirlce bits or arrow points of interest...
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
sure your cable is routed properly? no sicking parts , no stray frays in the accelerater cable ?
vacuum or not your your engine should drop back to idle if nothing is sticking , the butterfly's are spring returned via the large springs connected to your shaft .
test it whilst stationary if it does it disconnect cable and do again that way you can see if its cable or carbie problem , than if its still doing it make sure it is returning ( lever) all the way to idle stop . or just remove hose from top of carbie and do it and see it the butterflies are staying slightly stuck open .
good luck , i think the zook carbie is the biggest problem world over with these cars
cheers Jai
vacuum or not your your engine should drop back to idle if nothing is sticking , the butterfly's are spring returned via the large springs connected to your shaft .
test it whilst stationary if it does it disconnect cable and do again that way you can see if its cable or carbie problem , than if its still doing it make sure it is returning ( lever) all the way to idle stop . or just remove hose from top of carbie and do it and see it the butterflies are staying slightly stuck open .
good luck , i think the zook carbie is the biggest problem world over with these cars
cheers Jai
if its worth doing do it intensly , better still do it with MADPASSION
set your limits way beyond your abilities
set your limits way beyond your abilities
duno about stray frays on the cable length, but it was working fine before the engine swap.... so cant imagine it fraying due to that. will have to check the stationary idle, seems to happen more so once it has warmed up.. almost choke like but not as drastic.. really has me stumpped as the carbie was fine on the original motor.. meh, IDK.. MR MECHANIC!!?! maybe worth dropping into a carbie place and getting them to check it over and tune accordingly.. as it seems to be using a fair bit of juice as well...
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
probably wont show up till warm as the idle up choke function will still be holding revs up till the engine is warm masking the problem . shouldn't take to long to figure out , a carby speacialist or even the local mechanic might find the problem whilst having a quick what are we infor look and charge you nothing no but seriously some of em can be ok that way , others will know what it is and take you and your wallet for a ride . good luck either wayfoolsp33d wrote:duno about stray frays on the cable length, but it was working fine before the engine swap.... so cant imagine it fraying due to that. will have to check the stationary idle, seems to happen more so once it has warmed up.. almost choke like but not as drastic.. really has me stumpped as the carbie was fine on the original motor.. meh, IDK.. MR MECHANIC!!?! maybe worth dropping into a carbie place and getting them to check it over and tune accordingly.. as it seems to be using a fair bit of juice as well...
if its worth doing do it intensly , better still do it with MADPASSION
set your limits way beyond your abilities
set your limits way beyond your abilities
My carby has been fine since i got it looked at by a carby specialist in morrabbin, but then I took it off the other day and put it back on and now I'm having huge issues with the idle. I think I made a mistake of mucking around with the idle mixture screw and now it either idles at 2000 or dies in the butt.
When i knocked the mixture right down until it was just running coughing and spluttering and partially covered the primary intake about 70-80% covered the idle returned to normal....take my hand off and it runs like a dog again... This suggests to me that its getting too much oxygen...running lean...so i bump up the mixture and it shoots up to 2000rpm.... Looks like its a fine balance
i hate these carbies....
When i knocked the mixture right down until it was just running coughing and spluttering and partially covered the primary intake about 70-80% covered the idle returned to normal....take my hand off and it runs like a dog again... This suggests to me that its getting too much oxygen...running lean...so i bump up the mixture and it shoots up to 2000rpm.... Looks like its a fine balance
i hate these carbies....
Work - KPD4X4.COM - KPD Industries Australian Distributor of Diesel Power Modules - Germany.
Play - dank's zook
Play - dank's zook
bump with update... on the weekend the carby packed it in and didn't want to idle....I screwed around with the idle adjustment screw...tried the hand over the carby trick many times for a short fix and while getting sick of replacing the cv tonight I thought I'd pull the fuel line out of the carby and blow some compressed air down it....well be careful if you are a smoker or you are working by candle light coz fuel WILL spray out everywhere if you have the intake off the carby. Someone mentioned on another thread that bits of rubber tend to shred off the fuel pump diaphragm and i think this is what is causing my idle jets to get blocked...
My idle is now back to what it was when i got it serviced by the carby joint in moorabbin which was a touch over 1000rpm....any lower and it tends to drop out every now and then...its good enough for me!
My idle is now back to what it was when i got it serviced by the carby joint in moorabbin which was a touch over 1000rpm....any lower and it tends to drop out every now and then...its good enough for me!
Work - KPD4X4.COM - KPD Industries Australian Distributor of Diesel Power Modules - Germany.
Play - dank's zook
Play - dank's zook
Ok guys, i just had mine fixed for this problem, a mechanic friend just fixed mine. i will use one of the pics above to show everyone, and write it up
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=107796
Chop
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=107796
Chop
I THINK ICAN, I THINK I CAN!
Also fixed my idle woes.. kicking myself for not doing this earlier, as it took all of 5 minutes..
Things needed: 10mm spanner/socket,sharp knife, 2 hose clamps, one inline fuel filter, carby cleaner/compressed air(GENTLY!) car keys and a carby that wont idle...
1: remove air filter cover from top of carb.
2. start car from cold and allow to idle, while observing choke.
3.using a carby cleaner i sprayed in and around ALL jets(clearing any foreign matter that may be residing)
4. while engine is running with the choke on turn off ignition.
5. cut the fuel inlet pipe, after the fuel pump but before the carby and attatch an inline fuel filtel. using hose clamps to secure. i used what i had avail. and is probably to big.
6. restart car, choke should be close to switching off, and the test is upcoming, if all is well and the choke closes, idle jets are clean, you SHOULD be good to go.. and your zuki idleing happily....
this is obviously only a good fix if all vacume lines and air leaks have been checked and the problem is still persistant.
Hope it helps somepeople out!
Things needed: 10mm spanner/socket,sharp knife, 2 hose clamps, one inline fuel filter, carby cleaner/compressed air(GENTLY!) car keys and a carby that wont idle...
1: remove air filter cover from top of carb.
2. start car from cold and allow to idle, while observing choke.
3.using a carby cleaner i sprayed in and around ALL jets(clearing any foreign matter that may be residing)
4. while engine is running with the choke on turn off ignition.
5. cut the fuel inlet pipe, after the fuel pump but before the carby and attatch an inline fuel filtel. using hose clamps to secure. i used what i had avail. and is probably to big.
6. restart car, choke should be close to switching off, and the test is upcoming, if all is well and the choke closes, idle jets are clean, you SHOULD be good to go.. and your zuki idleing happily....
this is obviously only a good fix if all vacume lines and air leaks have been checked and the problem is still persistant.
Hope it helps somepeople out!
[quote="-Nemesis-"][quote="bj on roids"]whens the aussie one start?[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
A few episodes before they can it? :lol:[/quote]
I did this on mine ages ago.
If you think that everything is running properly, all of your vacuum hoses are on correctly, there is no vacuum leak between the carby and manifold, get new gasket anyway to make sure only 2 bucks, idle solenoid is working, then My guess is it could be your fuel pump.
Mine shagged out not long ago and I thought it was the carby playing up but I installed an electric fuel pump just to get me home and it idled perfectly! It could be that your fuel pump is on its way out. If you haven't changed it, it might be a good idea anyway or get it checked. As all sierras are getting old this might be a problem for a lot of cars up around the 150-200k life.
If you think that everything is running properly, all of your vacuum hoses are on correctly, there is no vacuum leak between the carby and manifold, get new gasket anyway to make sure only 2 bucks, idle solenoid is working, then My guess is it could be your fuel pump.
Mine shagged out not long ago and I thought it was the carby playing up but I installed an electric fuel pump just to get me home and it idled perfectly! It could be that your fuel pump is on its way out. If you haven't changed it, it might be a good idea anyway or get it checked. As all sierras are getting old this might be a problem for a lot of cars up around the 150-200k life.
Work - KPD4X4.COM - KPD Industries Australian Distributor of Diesel Power Modules - Germany.
Play - dank's zook
Play - dank's zook
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