Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
My homemade rear bar and carrier
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Nice job.
I have cheated a bit i bought a 2nd hand TJM rear bar with a single tyre carrier on it.
I have nearly finished fabricating a 2nd swing arm for a double jerry can holder, hi_lift jack and a shovel and replaced the crappy latches with some decent ones.
Just have to get it sandblasted and then powder coated
I have cheated a bit i bought a 2nd hand TJM rear bar with a single tyre carrier on it.
I have nearly finished fabricating a 2nd swing arm for a double jerry can holder, hi_lift jack and a shovel and replaced the crappy latches with some decent ones.
Just have to get it sandblasted and then powder coated
100series 2002 4.5/LPG
GET YA GEAR OFF ROAD
www.4x4web.com.au/dinos4x4
GET YA GEAR OFF ROAD
www.4x4web.com.au/dinos4x4
It's just rattle can paint at the moment, it'll get sprayed with the gun when I'm all done
Started on the carrier. Not much to show or say yet except it'll take my weight swinging on it if I sit near the hinge. I've decided I don't like the long swingarm so will chop it down and redesign where I want latch, got some plans which I think should work well
As you can see it looks basic at the moment.
Cheers
Steve
Started on the carrier. Not much to show or say yet except it'll take my weight swinging on it if I sit near the hinge. I've decided I don't like the long swingarm so will chop it down and redesign where I want latch, got some plans which I think should work well
As you can see it looks basic at the moment.
Cheers
Steve
Can you be specific on the Rattle can please??? As Loanrangie said, the finish looks as good as powder coat so if you could do a brief tech on how you prepped, how many coats etc so some of us can attempt to get our home made stuff to look that good I'm sure it would be greatly appreciated.Loanrangie wrote:2nd that , looks as good as powdercoat, so what did you use apart from " black paint " ?V8 Middy wrote:What sort of paint did you use? Thats a nice finish.
Thanks
73 Series Middy Cruiser 308 VN V8 OME 2in Susp lift 2in Body lift 35in Pro Comp X-Terrains
rear bar
Can you tell me what thickness the steel is for the main bar? Also maybe a cost breakdown for the bar when completed?
No bender, tha back of the steel is scored with a 3mm cutting disk and then when it is thin enough I bend it by hand and then weld up the score I made i n the back.
The paint was white knight I think, need to confirm, just primered, prepsold and then a few light coats, basically followed the instructions on the back and used the same method I'd use with the spray gun.
Costs so far is about $160 for steel and another $170 for hub, spindle and LED lights. I could have got this far for a total of about $240 without the LED's. There's also a few bucks spent on paint etc.
The main bar is 5mm thick, the returns up the side are 4mm thick and the bracketry is 6mm thick.
Cheers
Steve
The paint was white knight I think, need to confirm, just primered, prepsold and then a few light coats, basically followed the instructions on the back and used the same method I'd use with the spray gun.
Costs so far is about $160 for steel and another $170 for hub, spindle and LED lights. I could have got this far for a total of about $240 without the LED's. There's also a few bucks spent on paint etc.
The main bar is 5mm thick, the returns up the side are 4mm thick and the bracketry is 6mm thick.
Cheers
Steve
question
Sorry for asking a stupid question but what is that sleeve called that goes on the stub axle ?????
06 Dual Cab Hilux Loaded with ARB
80 Series With L98 6ltr 35's 4L80E Locked & Loaded
84 Extra Cab Hilux Build up fun car
96 Dual Cab Hilux build up Long range play car
www.trailtrack4x4.com
80 Series With L98 6ltr 35's 4L80E Locked & Loaded
84 Extra Cab Hilux Build up fun car
96 Dual Cab Hilux build up Long range play car
www.trailtrack4x4.com
Re: question
HubMUD000 wrote:Sorry for asking a stupid question but what is that sleeve called that goes on the stub axle ?????
Cheers
Steve
Got the latch pretty much sorted, the handle is not bolted on here so moves around a lot more than it will normally. I'll also put a spring on it in the bar to keep it tight in the locked position so it cant rattle open (unlikely anyway I would think)
And some pictures, the slot under the stud is so I can get a spanner in there and adjust the position if required. The checkerplate is just sitting there as I removed it to cut the bar.
There will be a plate on the swing arm that covers the latch and also the stud when it is closed, it'll have a rubber strip on it to give the latch some tension so it doesn't rattle.
Cheers
Steve
And some pictures, the slot under the stud is so I can get a spanner in there and adjust the position if required. The checkerplate is just sitting there as I removed it to cut the bar.
There will be a plate on the swing arm that covers the latch and also the stud when it is closed, it'll have a rubber strip on it to give the latch some tension so it doesn't rattle.
Cheers
Steve
Last edited by Steve F on Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
some sweet work there! Looking good!
This site may be of interest....
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoARBrear.htm
keep it up!
GQ Shorty
DIESEL
2inch Body, 2 inch Suspension
33' Peeds
ARB Bar with Warn Magnum winch
Dual Bats
and much more to come....
DIESEL
2inch Body, 2 inch Suspension
33' Peeds
ARB Bar with Warn Magnum winch
Dual Bats
and much more to come....
Yep, heaps of room.
Finally got to hang a tyre on it (31x10.5) Still need to cut the bar holding the tyre to the right length and make the plate the tyre will bolt to. Also need to brace the bar the tyre hangs on and will have a piece of pipe poking through the centre to help line the wheel up a bit like the box section is at the moment.
It was great to see the weight of the wheel made no difference to the latch lining up and caused no sag in the bar or hinge etc. I think it is plenty strong enough and will work well. I'm really pleased with it. Now it's down to the detail to finish it off (almost).
I decided against adding hilift mounts etc as I've never taken one anywhere before and there is always the roof basket. I did decide to leave the upright long though as a work light will go on the top.
Cheers
Steve
Finally got to hang a tyre on it (31x10.5) Still need to cut the bar holding the tyre to the right length and make the plate the tyre will bolt to. Also need to brace the bar the tyre hangs on and will have a piece of pipe poking through the centre to help line the wheel up a bit like the box section is at the moment.
It was great to see the weight of the wheel made no difference to the latch lining up and caused no sag in the bar or hinge etc. I think it is plenty strong enough and will work well. I'm really pleased with it. Now it's down to the detail to finish it off (almost).
I decided against adding hilift mounts etc as I've never taken one anywhere before and there is always the roof basket. I did decide to leave the upright long though as a work light will go on the top.
Cheers
Steve
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 32 guests