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MQ blowing smoke

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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MQ blowing smoke

Post by Screwy »

My SD33 MQ SWB is blowing a little (sometimes alot) of smoke.
It blows a bit of black smoke when i have my foot in it, or up hills etc. but that just means it needs a tune correct???

The major concern of mine is that in the mornings or when it has been sitting for more than like 8 hours it blows quite alot of white smoke, i mean like heaps for maybe 1 minute, It wont start without a bit of accelerator and after the initial accelerator it kinda jerks a little on idle for a little while.

What do u think the problem is here?? white smoke means what??
Injector pump??

any info would be much appreciated,

cheers, screwy
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Post by MQ080 »

First change all of your filters, highly unlikely it will be them but it's a good start. Then go for your injectors. I just had mine done and it makes a big diffrence in both fuel economy and the reduction in the clouds of smoke from behind. On the SD33 you can actually adjust how rich your mixture is by a little screw on the side of the pump... How many km's on the clock? Is it the original motor?
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Post by Monty »

yeah now the injectors have been done we actually let shannon lead some convoys because not as much smoke is poured out to the toyota drivers who dont blow any from their diesels
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Post by Screwy »

Its got 350 K on the clock, but kicks first go when cold and warm, but requires accelerator and blows smoke when cold.
So u recon get the injectors done?? timed ? or cleaned?? or are u talking about the whole pump??

Id also like to know about this screww, would be interesting to have a squiz at.
Ill do the filters in a coupla days
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Post by jtraf »

I have an MK SD33T but his goes for all deisels anyway.

All deisels will blow some amount of black smoke when under load either going up hill or changing gear etc. No deisel will run absolutley clean all the time.

The white smoke on startup is combination things. Firstly it won't hurt to do your injectors if you have never had them done. But the smoke can be attributed to the glow plugs being stuffed. If the glow plugs were to work correctly when you were starting your cold engine it would not run rough or blow great plumes of smoke cause combustion would be happening much sooner not 60 seconds after you have started and and warmed the combustion chamber.

Give it a good service replace all the filter and get reco injectors for about $60 each and replace the glow plugs which are worth about $30 each and you should be happy and have a little better fuel consumption due to clean injector and better spray pattern

HTH

cheers

James
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Post by Screwy »

Well ive just bought the filters, and am doing that tomoz.
The glow plugs i can get for 9 dollars a pop, as i have a mate that works at Karmott. So ill do them too,

But when u say get the injectors done, do u mean CLEANED or TUNED or REPLACED or which, would be great.

thanks for the help so far
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Post by Area54 »

Getting your injectors serviced usually means new nozzles and seats (these are the parts that directly control the spray/mist pattern) and reshimming/springs, to ensure the injector opens at the specified pressure.
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Post by jtraf »

When I say get your injectors done I mean to get some reco ones.

HiFlo in Melbourne reco injectors and do them on a change-over basis. I would dare say that they would a great deal more expensive outright or new.

Can you get me 6 glow plugs for a MK SD33T 12volt for $9 that is dirt cheap. I still live with the smoke in the morning cause it doesn't phase me but one day will bite the bullet.

It's amazing what injectors and glow plugs can do when replaced. My mates Bundura was hard to start and would blow heaps of smoke when cold. After I replaced the injectors with reco one and glow plugs the beast would fire striaght up with no throttle work and absolutley no smoke at all.
Even on cold Mlebourne mornings.

cheers

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Post by Screwy »

well i got my last set of glow plugs ( 4 of em ) for a hilux for $38. My SD33 ones ( 24 volt ) might be a little more, but not even slightly close to $30 a pop.
So u recon get the injectors replaced with reco ones?
Would i be able to just get my injectors serviced and would this give the same effect??

Also could this problem have anything to do with the injector pump itself? maybe a tune, or timing?
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Post by Area54 »

Reco injectors are exactly that - new nozzles and adjusted to open at the correct pressure. More convenient to exchange them - quicker turnaround provided they have them in stock for you rig.

When you replace your glow plugs - do a quick check of the glow timer system, just so you know everything is working to spec.
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Post by Fisher »

My 3.0 TDi doesn't blow smoke - I wouldn't have one of those SD33 MQs

Tick Tick Tick
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Post by jtraf »

My MK Patrol doesn't usually blow smoke but at start up it does due to dying glow plugs. It does blow some smoke at gear changes and when under load. Nat bad for the orginal engine approaching 300,000km.

HiFlo is the place to go to I saw in the mag last night that have workshops all over Australia and sell stuff through Don Kyatt as well. My suggestion is start with glow plugs and reco injectors and filters and stuff. Then if you still have excessive smoke bring it to a deisel monkey and get it checked out properly. HTH

All deisels blow smoke under load. Even 3.0lt turbo electronic injection piston blowers blow smoke. If you want no smoke buy a petrol.


cheers

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Post by Area54 »

Fisher wrote:My 3.0 TDi doesn't blow smoke - I wouldn't have one of those SD33 MQs

Tick Tick Tick


Fisher, Screwy and the other people that have contributed to this thread have a serious intention for tech in this article. If you feel that you cannot contribute in a serious way, then don't post. Screwy has asked some questions wanting serious tech, not useless padding and hijacking. Just remember this when you ask for some tech in the future...
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Post by Wendle »

Area54 wrote:
Fisher wrote:My 3.0 TDi doesn't blow smoke - I wouldn't have one of those SD33 MQs

Tick Tick Tick


Fisher, Screwy and the other people that have contributed to this thread have a serious intention for tech in this article. If you feel that you cannot contribute in a serious way, then don't post. Screwy has asked some questions wanting serious tech, not useless padding and hijacking. Just remember this when you ask for some tech in the future...


IIRC fisher did get his tech, when he first joined this site asking about recall dates for the GU/GR he had just purchased. So, fisher, now that you have your helpful advice, please don't get in the way of others receiving theirs.
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Post by Area54 »

One thing that your motor may benefit from is a good flush with a flushing oil. Sometimes you might have sludge/carbon deposits around the motor, causing blockages/poor sealing and blowby. I will be giving my TD42 a flush , after noticing some sludgy deposits inside the rocker cover on my last tappet adjustment. I have 205,000 on the clock (only a baby) but I'd like to keep it running well for another 205,000.
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Post by jtraf »

Whats the go with these flushing oils. I have wanted to do mine but don't know what to use. Mechanic advised to use an oil flush addative but are these any good for my motor.

I don't have the money to replace my motor and don't want to kill it with love by trying to clean it out with the wrong type of stuff.

A good flush with what will help. I am also interested in this.

cheers

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Post by Area54 »

I spoke to the engine rebuilders (who built my lux motor) and they said any dedicated flushing oil is good to use, provided the instructions on the pack are followed. In my case, it involves dumpng my old oil, installing 2 new oil filters, filling with 10 litres of flushing oil, foloowing the instructions on the pack, dumping the cruddy flushing oil, removing the cruddy filters, installing 2 new oil filters, and filling with 10 litres of new engine oil. Not a cheap exercise for the td42, but when I saw the crud/sludge inside the rocker, it's cheaper to flush than rebuild prematurely. He also told me that some service centres now do a flush on every oil change (petrol and diesel), he said this was prolly a bit excessive, but it was something additional they could charge for.

Hopefully some monkeys will post some tech here ---> http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=7747
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Post by V8Patrol »

did a reply for ya Area 54.....


as for this thread.....
I wouldnt be overly concerned at this stage about the smoke problem.
White smoke from a cold diesel motor is there because the engine isnt hot enuff to fully burn all the diesel in the combustion chamber, maybe the glowplugs need atention there.
It's a major problem if its blowing clouds of white smoke when its at normal operating temp ( time for a rebuild)
As for the black smoke when its under load, thats normal, but if you think its excesive then maybe its a tad rich in the mixture. A tune up will cure that.
Also chuck in a injector cleaner additive in the next tank of fuel you put in , its availiable from nearly every petrol station aussie wide.
If your still in doubt then watch a semi take off from a standing start.....they blow clouds of black smoke till the load they are under decreases, also if you can get to see one fire up cold then there's a bit of white smoke in the first minute or two till the engine warms up.
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Post by Area54 »

V8Patrol wrote:...Also chuck in a injector cleaner additive in the next tank of fuel you put in...


I'm not a big fan of this. in my own experiences and talking to a lot of diesel tech guys, these can can create more problems than they are worth. A lot of additives act like a detergent/emulsifier, allowing the water in the tank (if present) to become suspended in the fuel, and passed through the system. The injector pump uses the fuel as both a lubricant and coolant, and when the water passes through the pump wear occurs. The additive prevents the fuel filter from separating the water from the fuel, and bang, there goes your savings. I also fail to see how a fine mist of cleaner and fuel can remove the carbon deposits (that normally need to be scraped off with a wooden stick and brass wire brush) from the nozzles and seats.
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Re: MQ blowing smoke

Post by 2car »

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:The major concern of mine is that in the mornings or when it has been sitting for more than like 8 hours it blows quite alot of white smoke, i mean like heaps for maybe 1 minute


Sounds like valve stem seals and/or guides to me. 350,000km! When the seals are worn oil can seep past into the exhaust and induction ports. It burns and produces white smoke on startup.
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Re: MQ blowing smoke

Post by Area54 »

2car wrote:
Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:The major concern of mine is that in the mornings or when it has been sitting for more than like 8 hours it blows quite alot of white smoke, i mean like heaps for maybe 1 minute


Sounds like valve stem seals and/or guides to me. 350,000km! When the seals are worn oil can seep past into the exhaust and induction ports. It burns and produces white smoke on startup.


I agree, the oil from the rocker tray area would pool and seep past the valve seals overnight.
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Post by Screwy »

Well im not overly concerned about the black smoke,
One thing though, u guys say that if the glow plugs are on the way out that it would blow the white smoke, but some mornings i glow it 2 or 3 times, and i do get less smoke but there is still a fair bit of it,

Also, come to think of it my air intake manifold has a tiny little bit of black oily looking stuff around the edge, could this be a clue???
and my motor has some wierd exuast pipe running off the exaust maifold area, straight down towards teh ground, no idea what it, is but it has a bit of oil come from it from time to time....
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Post by jtraf »

The reason it blows less smoke when you glow it up a couple of time is due to the fact that your glow plugs are like mine in the fact that they are dying but not completely stuffed. In this state they warm a little but not enough hence the white smoke of the deisel working inefficently till it has warmed up totally one maybe two minutes depending on ambient temp on the day.

New glow plugs will both glow for less time as they are more effecient and build up more heat in less time. When you do go to start the feul will burn quicker and more efficient enough and have little if no white smoke. My mates bundy would not start at all as the glow plugs were completely dead, also the glow relay system would stay on for ages as the sensors didn't report any resistance. The only way it would fire cold was with a couple squirts of AIR START and then it would plume the smoke for a minute or so. After I replaced glow plugs the relay only stayed on for 3-5 seconds and it would kick over first kick without throttle. One very happy person that day.

That pipe that comes down behind the manifold pointing to the ground is connected on top of the rocker cover and acts as a pressure relief system for the motor. It is normal to have a little oil coming out of here but not alot as the motor should not pressurise. It is only there to equalise pressure and if you have oil and gas under pressure motor is almost dead.

HTH

cheers

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Post by Screwy »

Thats a huge help jtraf, thanx heaps for that,

The other thing though is that u guys could be onto something with the valve stem seals seeping oil.

My air intake has a little bit of oil around the manifold, could this have anything to do with this problem, and hense the smoke?

thanx for your help so far
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Post by 2car »

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:The other thing though is that u guys could be onto something with the valve stem seals seeping oil.

My air intake has a little bit of oil around the manifold, could this have anything to do with this problem, and hense the smoke?



Could have something to do with it, but I would guess that the oil would just collect around the valve where it contacts the valve seat. That's if the valve is closed. If the valve is open the oil would run straight into the combustion chamber. It would only be a minute amount of oil - it doesn't take much to make smoke. You probably wouldn't even notice the oil consumption.

The stem seals are usually rubber, and on top of wear they can harden and crack with age. Not too sure about diesels, but on some petrol motors the seals can be replaced without removing the head. I have seen it done by using compressed air or clean rope to stop the valves from falling into the cylinder.
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Post by Area54 »

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:My air intake has a little bit of oil around the manifold, could this have anything to do with this problem, and hense the smoke?



You would have a bit of blowby - in the blowby gas there is vaporised oil droplets (as well as other nasties) I'm not sure of the setup on your motor, but a lot of motors vent this blowby to be reburnt as part of emissions control, usually via a hose from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold.
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smoke

Post by DR Frankenstine »

Fisher wrote:My 3.0 TDi doesn't blow smoke - I wouldn't have one of those SD33 MQs

Tick Tick Tick
go bite your a#@e you idiot your talking about two different eras
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Post by V8Patrol »

White smoke is a sign of a cold motor= replace the glowplugs.

Black smoke is a sign of a rich mixture= not a major drama in a diesel

Blue smoke is from oil being burnt=replace either rings or get the valves lapped in (they may need "K liners" too) and new valvestem seals fitted.

If your worried about water in the tank .......flush it !!!!!!

tip....
drive it and get some pics of the smoke thats worring you, bit hard to judge from someones interpretations
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Post by bogged »

V8Patrol wrote:Black smoke is a sign of a rich mixture= not a major drama in a diesel


too much fuel causes overheating....
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Post by MQ080 »

That breather will also allow oil to drain form the engine when the SD33 is on steep inclines, so be careful with that
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