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Just got back from a weekend at Janowen hills and was checking out another new oil leak and saw this
The welds are cracked, the A frame is the only part of the rear suspension that hasn't been changed. Mainly because i'm unsure what to do with it. I know if i jack the body the drop is limited by the A frame but i doesn't seem to hinder cross axle movement. I have a new Maxi-drive joint to go in, I'm currently running 670mm long shock so it has great travel should i be looking at getting shorters ones?
i'm happy to weld it up but i'm worried about it happening again or worse complete failure.
slightly off topic.... if and when this happens to me
is it worth changing the location/height of the knuckle, ie. are there any noticable gains handling wise by doing this? and I'm assuming the lowers will need to be modded at the same time to keep them parrallel?
I'm still doing limited reading on this kinda thing so forgive me for my lack of knowledge (if I look too much I'll start playing to much and my damn POS will never get mobile)
Hi! Same thing happen me couple years ago. I Just rewelded it. Be careful, clean everything (important), test weld on some similiar steel thickness to adjust the right power and tread speed (if you useing MIG-welder). I havn´t had any problem with my since that I re-welded. Good luck! /Sam
Last edited by samofsweden on Tue Jan 16, 2007 5:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The same happened to TIGGR in the 04 Vicwich. Just re-welded and also put some stainless steel rod to reinforce. This then survived the 05 OBC so it is a reliable fix.
Another option is converting the ball joint to a bearing pivot thingy. Cheezy has done many of these conversion, repositioning the location for accurate alignment as well.
This may be a dumb question, but is the problem being caused by hyper extending the ball joint, ie knuckling it out thereby placing stress on the mounting bracket? If so you'll need to get a high movement ball joint or modify the A frame for greater droop. This would entail lowering the upper mounts or modding the ball joint/mount - search around, there are some spacer kits available in the US/UK, not sure bout here though.
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
I just made a spacer for my a-frame, but some silly bugger put the fuel tank ontop and with the spacer it will fowl, Balljoint 70mm lower and 20mm forward, Whats this about a High movement joint and where from??
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
I just gave Mal at maxi drive a ring to ask about the differences in the ball joints and if i could have been maxing out its flex.
He said that the cracks are usually caused not from over extending the ball joint A frame, but more the rotational forces through the diff (i guess from adding lockers and bigger tyres) he suggested gusseting it with some 25x12mm across the back so you can just get to the nut.
I knew someone would ask where? I read it somewhere........first I though Les richmond, but can't access the site for some reason, then I thought Maxi - but that looks worng...so not sure now, but clearly recall statements about high artic ball joints - maybe US Rovertyme...I'll keep looking. Spacer seems to be the go though.
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
Reddo wrote:I knew someone would ask where? I read it somewhere........first I though Les richmond, but can't access the site for some reason, then I thought Maxi - but that looks worng...so not sure now, but clearly recall statements about high artic ball joints - maybe US Rovertyme...I'll keep looking. Spacer seems to be the go though.
Spacer is no good for me, now i wanna ball joint, you got me excited, just about to spurt and mum walks in, that sort of feeling, that's what your doing to me reddo.............
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
