TD5 Disco - What to look for.

[Larry the Leper]

I'm looking at a Disco 2001 - 2003 vintage TD5 Auto. Have been looking around at a few. Any issues to look for. I hear the radiators can be an issue. Also the locking center diff thingy on the early ones, changed back in 2003? Is this correct. is it expensive to get the conversion fitted back to the way it should have been. I had a series 1 TDI and loved it. Bought a Prado and getting rid of that now.

[Maggot4x4]

DISCOVERY

89: Series 1
3.5L V8, 200Tdi 2.5L turbo diesel, LT77 5-speed gearbox, ZF 4HP22 Auto, LT230 transfer, 10 spline axles, no sway bars. These have headlight surrounds.

94: Series 1 Update.
3.9L V8, 300Tdi 2.5L turbo diesel. R380 5-speed, ZF 4HP22 Auto, LT230 transfer, 24 spline axles, swaybars, no headlight surrounds. 96+ bigger 235/70-16 tyres

99: Series 2
4.0L V8, TD5 2.5L turbo diesel. R380 5-speed, ZF 4HP22EH Auto, LT230Q transfer with unconnected CDL nut, 24 spline axles, Watts linkage rear suspension replaces A-frame design, Optional ACE swaybars, Optional rear air suspension, Traction control, hill decent control. Longer boot space. 02 CDL nut removed.

04: Series 2 Update
New style headlights to match RR, activated CDL returned.

05: Series 3
All new. 4.4V8, 2.7V6TD, 6 speed automatic, Full independant suspension, optional full air suspension, Terrain responce ETC + rear locker mapping.

More clarifying data:
http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/FAQ.2.Ident.Disco.html wrote:
If it is a 5-door, it is post August 1990
If it is an automatic, it is post August 1992
If the interior is Sonor Blue is was built from 1989 to March 1994
If the interior is not Sonor Blue, is was built after August 1990
If it is a 5-door and has side rubbing strips (halfway down the door), it was built after August 1991
If it has anti-roll bars (anti-sway), it was built after August 1992
If it doesn't have anti-roll bars (anti-sway), it was built before March 1994 If it has ABS [Anti-lock Brake System], it was built after March 1994
If it has airbags, it was built after March 1994
After March 1994 (1995 models) the dash was redesigned and different side mirrors were used
Alloy wheels were introduced in autumn 1992
If it is a automatic and has a Tdi engine, it was built after August 1993
If it has a high mounted 3rd rear stop light, side marker lamps in front and rear bumper ends, it was built after March 1994.

[Reddo]

I would be interested in comments on TD5s too.

Saw 3 today and they look great and go like stink. The drive train is very strong by all accounts but modifications eg., for biggers wheels etc, can be more difficult to achieve than earlier versions.

I've heard the exhuast manifold gaskets can blow especially if they have been chipped. There's the usual computer/too complex phobia with them and parts will be expensive cause many critical parts are dealer only (just like Mitsubishi and others do).

A neighbour has had an issue with the ACE motor lately (dealer jobbie and expensive) that is the active cornering thingy, whit shiat itself, otherwise he said it's been good. Another neighbour has one, thrashes it everywhere and so far no problems - but he is British.....

There were also a couple of earlier warranty issues with the TD5 but these should have been fixed by now.

I think you'll find mixed reports, with many owners claiming good service whilst others have had niggling problems. Like other vehicles, a lot of this depends on the model (earlier version of course have cruder systems, eg., hill decent conbtrol) dealer preparation and support, intial ownership, treatment and maintenance, and of course mileage. If you can get one at the right price, they are a very good buy in terms of capability and comfort.

Have a look at http://www.csse.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/4/ ... Discovery/

and there are many web sites (especially US) where people just love to bag out landrovers!

[RangingRover]

Radiators are not really repairable, due to being alloy (repaired ones generally leak fairly soon after), and removal requires removing quite a bit of the front of the car to access the retaining bolts.

Exhaust manifolds warp, due IMO to the way all 5 ports blast straight into what is essentially a cast rail, with one exit hole. I believe it causes them to expand and contract unevenly. When this occurs, they will either drop a nut off, or break the stud out of the side of the head, and may emit a loud shriek that can sound like a belt squeal. Incidentally, if anyone could be bothered designing an equal length (or closer too) exhaust manifold setup, i think there could be serious low down gains in terms of boost.

Autos in series 2s do appear to have some issues, probably due in part to the fact that the recommended service schedule does not suggest replacement of the auto filter after the first 40,000km service - i would recommend an auto service every 20,000km, but 40,000 is more commonly done.

Earlier cars have had issues with double cardon joints exploding (on front driveshaft), which can smash the sump of an auto. Have seen them rebuilt with grease nipples in, would recommend it as I suspect its this omission from the factory which causes failure. Not sure who does that particular mod.

Ace doesn't regularly give trouble, but is expensive to fix if it does.

ABS modulators have a fair chance of giving up the ghost, about $3000 to replace, or just deal with no ABS.

Injector looms tend to leak, which can cause misfires, and a crook boost controller solenoid can also cause misfires. Blown headgaskets do not usually cause a misfire unless they are very bad (as in eaten the piston away, and filling the sump with diesel). Walk away from any TD5 with an overfull sump, or budget for a serious repair.

As posted before, in '02 the CDL nut was removed - it is actually the whole difflocking assembly which is removed, can be refitted. RE: your question of retrofitting centre diff lock, Ritters do a kit which I BELIEVE is about $650, which adds a second lever next to your high/low lever, and is a manual kit. AMV do an electric kit, which uses a button on the dash, and a window winder electric motor, and Brown Davis do a manual kit which piggybacks off the high/low level, so that when you select low range, you also get difflock. My pick would be the Ritters kit, followed by the Brown Davis kit. Don't like the AMV idea, the motors fill up with water and mud, with predictable results.

Would I get one? Yes. Definitely manual, probably the updated one with the better looking (and exponentially more expensive to replace!) lights and CDL + high/low on the same lever but seperately selectable. TD5 or V8 would be a hard choice, but for a TD5 i would definitely chip, intercool, and probably redesign the exhaust system completely - I think there is monstrous potential for low down power gains in that exhaust and turbo system. That said, the highcomp bosch 4.0 litre does fly.

My parents went from a classic rangie into a manual td5 disco (stock) and are completely happy with it, (having done about 60-70,000kms in it), despite it being considerably more than they wanted to spend (they went on my recommendation that it was a really clean example with 70,000kms on it). Dad is a serious technophile, although mechanically very apt (point him at carbies and he's happy!), but has managed to sucessfully troubleshoot and fix one or two small but common issues with it, and is quite happy to tinker with it now. The only problem is he can't find an excuse.

[Squidous]

RangingRover,
I have just brought a 03 model TD5 Disco the vehicle is absolutely stock standard. I currently tow an off road camper trailer which will be upgraded to an off road caravan ; I am looking at a chip upgrade. Do you have a recommendation as which would suit the Disco best and any knowledge of any damage caused to the engine? Should I chip my vehicle is there any necessity to alter the turbo boost?

[Reddo]

Justin C will know - he does these for a living!!!

...calling JC....

[stinger]

We have 2003 DII upgrade with 125,000 ks. From my experience things to watch for:
- Front Tail Shaft Vibration (AC condenser apparently drips onto it, & wears the Unis faster which are not greasable.
- Heat insulation on wiring in engine bay perisihing

Apart from that we will not take our Disco to Southside Landrover in Brissy for servicing, to many issues to list.

Father In Law also just had his computer remapped (same model as ours)TD5 with auto. Certainly seemed to have more power. This was done my a mob in Brissy who sent it to Sydney to be done.

Cheers,
Stinger
HZJ80 Playcar and 03 TD5 Disco for touring

[RangingRover]

I don't have any knowledge of particular chip brands, as I've never had cause to research into them. There is a difference between auto and manual chips, that much I do know, and some of the chips seem to run very rich. Make sure the mob you buy from has a good backup if you aren't happy with the one you end up with. Beyond possibly causing the exhaust manifolds to warp a little faster, I'm not aware at this stage of any issues caused by chip upgrades, none seem to be really showing through at the moment.

I believe, but I'm not 100%, that the upgraded ecus run a little more boost as part of their programming, would be something to ask when you are talking to your chosen vendor. Different chips may work differently.

Sorry to be somewhat useless on the specifics!

[Squidous]

Thanks for the info, I’ll call Graeme Cooper in Sydney and listen to what they have to say on the subject.

[Slunnie]

The radiators are fine, just make sure you keep red OAT in it. If you hit deep water too fast you can put the fan into the radiator.

The CDL lever was missing from 99-03 and can be retrofitted on 99-late01's. Between late 01 and the revised 03 they modified the transfer case so this couldn't be done. The lever costs between 400 - $750ish and a factory D2 facelift one can be bought for about $600 + fitting.

The TD5 can be modified for as much power as you want. I have the mildest chip and an intercooler and it puts out about 165kw/520Nm. I don't belive the auto is comfortable with this amount of power with the bands needing regular setting. If the ATF cooler blocks you will smoke it also.

Fitting bigger wheels to a Disco2 is significantly easier than a Disco1 or a RRC as the guards are a lot bigger. 32's fit wth a bullbar, many run Simex 33x10.5's which measure oversized with a 2" lift. I run Simex 34x11.5 (35.2x12 measured) with a 4" lift and a trim. The 4" lift will also run 285/75-16 roadies. You can do bigger suspension lifts with little drama, especially in comparison to the RRC and D1.

The exhaust gaskets can blow if chipped. I believe this relates to higher EGT's which cause the manifold to warp. Replace the exhaust studs with 10mm jobs and your laughing.

Despite the computer phobia, they are fine. Generally its only the ABS sensors that give grief, which is caused by brake squeel if you use the wrong brake pads. Parts prices have dropped significantly now, especially since the D3 arrived. Parts are no different to any other manufacturer. There is also good non dealer support for parts/service etc that are better priced.

ACE basically don't give problems - if you have anything more than a hum when cornering then buy a lottery ticket. Its one of the best parts of the Disco2. Corners flat on the road like a go-kart, and acts like automatic disconnects while offroad.

The TD5 is a good strong motor - whatever you do, jst dont ever let it overheat. Despite every Toyota mans tale of injector costs, these don't go bad unless there has been direct human intervention. Some have turbo hoses collapse, but I'm not sure what precipitates this. The injector loom also acts as a slow conduit to bring oil to the ECU. You can tell if it burps and farts a bit. New looms are about $200 and last for about 50-100,000km usually.

Re the auto service there appear to be 2 trains of though. One is to service every 20,000km, the other is not to, as it may allow fine dirt in which causes1st gear to hold until high revs until the gearbox is warm.

Beware of the double cardin as already stated. When they break, the sometimes break the autobox also. The autos are exy. I replace mine when they give the slightest bit of doubt eg squeek or develop lash. Spicer now have a flange to adapt the 1300 bolt pattern to accept the 1310 uni joints so they can run a bigger DC joint into it, though its probably still cheaper to buy and import a Tom Woods shaft with the bigger 1310 DC and their 1300 to 1310 adapter - makes replacement shafts cheaper also!

Chips... I reckon Bruce Davis at Davis PErformace Landys has a good range of chips, as does Tombraider who I think is on this forum.

[Mick G]

What Slunnie said I have a '99 manual TD5 and love it. Bruce Davis chip, (recently fitted EGT gauge to check on temps) AMV CDL actuator, 32" muds, 40mm lift, bull bar, 4.11 diff gears, Maxi drive rear locker, front axles and CV's etc etc. I know very little about the mechanics side of things but my suggestion is find a good non dealer LR specialist and service the car regularly and you will love owning a D2. Mine goes everywhere I point her and just seems to do it so easily.....and is very comfortable to drive wi tthe family as well. Also as Slunnie said, ACE is a stand out feature on the car allowing superior road handling at all speeds even with all the mods.
One thing though, depends what you are going to be using it for, IMO, the D2 is a perfect touring car once set up and can handle the rough stuff when asked to do so. I would say if you are after a hard core off road monster, then maybe look at an early rangie or something like that.

Tons of info at www.aulro.com as well on all common faults and benefits of owning a D2.

Good luck

[Squidous]

I have spoken to both Graeme Cooper and Bruce Davis Re: the chip. I think I will go with Bruce Davis, a couple of reasons; cost, instillation time, power output, has the chips on hand and he is a landy specialist. I am not familiar with a number of terms that have been used.
CDL actuator
ETG gauge (Exhaust Gas Temperature) I guess, how would you use the gauge i.e., if the temp was high.


Thanks

[KiwiBacon]

I am not familiar with a number of terms that have been used.
CDL actuator
ETG gauge (Exhaust Gas Temperature) I guess, how would you use the gauge i.e., if the temp was high.


Thanks

CDL = Centre Diff Lock. Landrover decided for a while that the electronic traction control meant you didn't need a manual lever.

EGT reads basically as a gauge to how hard your diesel engine is working. Working harder gives it hotter exhaust.
Chipping engines makes them run closer to the danger zone (meltdown). A guage lets you keep an eye on it incase anything goes wrong and back off before harming the engine.

I had a turbo blow up once, first warning I got was the EGT gauge, then the rumble, then the loss of power and smoking exhaust.

[Mick G]

I have spoken to both Graeme Cooper and Bruce Davis Re: the chip. I think I will go with Bruce Davis, a couple of reasons; cost, instillation time, power output, has the chips on hand and he is a landy specialist.

Also try Tomraider on www.aulro.com although I don;t have one, he is having some very good reports about his chips too.....both in terms of power output, performance, LR knowledge and customer service.

Good luck and keep us posted as you go.