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i have a GQ shortie and not sure if i want to lift etc as it will cost a shit load..
If i go ahead with lifting it though i was thinking just a 2" lift becuase i don't wanna start cutting pannels and getting bigger panrods or bigger cv's etc..
Does anyone have some good pics of shorties with like a 2" lift or something or could someone photochop mine and show me what a 2" lift would look like..
Thanks alot
Rick.
cheers
Last edited by Mulisha on Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
why does one need to cut panels and get stronger cv's for a 2 inch lift?
none the less by the look of you car id say its already had a slight lift so id say it wont look much different at all.
you will have to look close to notice 50 mm lift
still dont get what you are cutting and why ud be needing cv's
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badger wrote:why does one need to cut panels and get stronger cv's for a 2 inch lift?
none the less by the look of you car id say its already had a slight lift so id say it wont look much different at all.
you will have to look close to notice 50 mm lift
still dont get what you are cutting and why ud be needing cv's
I don't want to cut the panels etc just wanna try keep it how it is now but have a okay lift under it so when a few friends do get there 4wd's i could go to landcrusier park becuase at the moment i would be flat out get anywere..
If i was going to lift what would you all recommend i should do maybe? I don't want to have to strengthen everything or cut the guards just want to make it a fairly good car to go to landcrusier park etc..
2 inch body, 2 inch spring, 33's. get adjustable panhards and new shocks too. also you car will still be legal and prety capable (ive seen well driven wagons smaller than this drive glasshouse and most of cruiser)
that way if you get more interested in the harder stuff all you need is some 4 inch coils and your set
1hd-fte 5 speed tiptronic 105 series
78 series troopy for work
gu ute play truck For sale
FTE 80 series sahara Sold
Does not matter how high you go you will not have to cut guards or get stronger CV's. But as said with a shorty a 2inch body lift and suspension"shocks and Springs only you will have more than enought lift and cleareance with 33 inch tyres to go any where and still be legal and stable offroad.
LudaCris
By the way I can supply everything except tyres for $1000. Spring, Shocks, Blocks and bolts.
Cris's 4 X 4 Accessories & Suspension 0404 736 325 Rock Sliders From $499
if you want to keep your original flares and mud flaps wich make the car look very good, go 3 inch lift otherwise every decent little bump or hill climb it will scrap, then eventually rip your flares bending all the holes wich they clip in to making it a pain in the ass to fix, the your car looks like a "DX" model with no flares, go 3inch. you will not regret
Bruzar wrote:and i gotta say, its time to lift it, it looks sh it low just personal opinion..
The only reason it is low is becuase i did mainly just beach driving and on the black stuff. Now i want to go Land Crusier park and do a few other tracks with a couple of friends that are also getting patrols. I didn't want to go over the top and get 4" lift kit and then 2" body lift and cut gaurds and put 35's on it as this will mean BIGGG $$$$ and at the moment i'm doing a turbo kit on the Tb42 so it will be making a bit more power
Bruzar wrote:and i gotta say, its time to lift it, it looks sh it low just personal opinion..
The only reason it is low is because i did mainly just beach driving and on the black stuff. Now i want to go Land Crusier park and do a few other tracks with a couple of friends that are also getting patrols. I didn't want to go over the top and get 4" lift kit and then 2" body lift and cut gaurds and put 35's on it as this will mean BIGGG $$$$ and at the moment i'm doing a turbo kit on the Tb42 so it will be making a bit more power
Thanks
Rick.
You only need 4" of lift total to run 35's. you can run 4" springs but you'll have to change/mod panhards, and run castor plates, drop radius arms or a cross link set up (anything to fix your castor). Or, you could run a two inch spring and 2" body lift; but GQ body mounts are weak and pretty soon you'll develop knocks and squeaks from the body moving. Personally I'd do the 4" spring lift properly the first time with a cross link set up and adjustable panhards and draglink, and move your rear axle back 20mm with heavy duty lower control arms. Might cost a bit more initially but once its done you wont have to do change it (until you decide to run 38" tyres) and with front and rear lockers would out drive a lot of 4wds.
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I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
Hey, Mulisha. The reason we modify vehicles is to increase diff clearance and greater spring travel.
The only way to increase diff clearance is to fit larger tyres. This is where the lifting/cutting comes into play. As you go higher, you raise your centre of gravity and, therefore, increase your rollover potential.
One way to do it is chop the shite out of your guards to fit bigger tyres with limited CoG difference. Another is to chop and lift, therefore, improving flex and fitting tyres with limited effect on CoG. Thirdly, you raise suspension and body significantly to fit bigger tyres and in turn increase CoG noticeably.
One thing to remember when fitting bigger rubber is to make sure there is HEAPS of room around the tyre to arch, or the first time offroad will be a damaging experience.
I would suggest a 2" bodylift and a 2" suspension lift for your vehicle with 33" mud terrain tyres. It would look shithot and would perform fairly well at LCMP too. If you ARE going to take it offroad get some 33" Mongrels - they're cheap and work well offroad. If it's for street bling only get some Maxis or MT baja claws - the Maxis will be cheaper.
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I'll try and not beat around the bush as i have been ..
I wanting to fit 33's or bigger not sure what will fit. Keeping stock mudflaps, flares and not cutting guards.
Not sure on lift but i was thinking a 4" spring lift if possible and no body lift as someone was saying it causes alot of moans and croans etc.
Also my bullbar just being a alloy one do you think it sits to low ?
Tyres not sure on what i should get what brand but will be used up beach a bit also LCMP and on road a fair bit as well. Friend has 35's MTR's and there fucking sooo nosiey not sure if it's becuase it on a landcrusier or not.
What prices would i be looking at doing all this like lift tyres and what ever else i need like shocks etc and what to buy.
If you are going to LCMP expect a few scratches - they will show up like dogs balls on that paintwork. And be careful that you dont bend the side steps into the doors - those will fold up real easy.
any decent offroad tyre will be "noisy" no matter what you choose.. having said that - MTR!
I agree on the sidesteps.. one decent hit and you'll need to get out of the other door and jump on the sidesteps until they're flat enough to open the door..
grazza wrote:If you are going to LCMP expect a few scratches - they will show up like dogs balls on that paintwork. And be careful that you dont bend the side steps into the doors - those will fold up real easy.
She sure is a purty thang , it NEEDS some scratches, chips and dings real quick to look like a mans car
[quote="chimpboy"]I might be reading that wrong, but it sounds like you are saying you want to come out of the closet and then rape my bottom or something..?
[/quote]
hasn't all these questions been covered a million times before. Do a search for hottiemonster and there will be many threads with all these questions and answers.
Not worth the stuffing around for that ebay kit in my opinion.
He will also need castor plates, adjustable panhard rods extended brake lines and i'm pretty sure you need adjustable rear arms to get the diff re centred in the wheel arch so it dosent scrub.
