Outer Limits 4x4 Board

With a EFI manifols won't i still need my Gas Research Throttle body .. not sure how those guys work.. i thought maybe jets or something..

Do u rekaon my AFR is like it is because my converter is maxed out

I was told u can buy a heavier spring is that true ?

Thanks

Rick.

wit an efiu you will still need your gas research throttle body, BUT, GRA dont actually make an adaptor for them, the only adaptor they make is for the carby inlet manifold,
so you will have to get a custom adaptor made,

BowTieGQ wrote:Sorry it's of topic Mulisha, but wouldn't you have been better fitting a Chev? Since you haven't skimped on money with your turbo setup, it probably would have been cheaper, a fresh engine and no fuss good power.

to do a engine conversion properly you would be looking at well over 5 grand, where a turbo set up would be around half that.

GRINCH wrote:

BowTieGQ wrote:Sorry it's of topic Mulisha, but wouldn't you have been better fitting a Chev? Since you haven't skimped on money with your turbo setup, it probably would have been cheaper, a fresh engine and no fuss good power.

to do a engine conversion properly you would be looking at well over 5 grand, where a turbo set up would be around half that.

but the engine conversion would be up and runnin now

bogged wrote:

GRINCH wrote:

BowTieGQ wrote:Sorry it's of topic Mulisha, but wouldn't you have been better fitting a Chev? Since you haven't skimped on money with your turbo setup, it probably would have been cheaper, a fresh engine and no fuss good power.

to do a engine conversion properly you would be looking at well over 5 grand, where a turbo set up would be around half that.

but the engine conversion would be up and runnin now

I'm driving my car around now

Mulisha wrote:I'm driving my car around now

but you are not happy with it all are you?

I reckon setting up an engine conversion properly and to be happy with it would take as long or longer

bogged wrote:

Mulisha wrote:I'm driving my car around now

but you are not happy with it all are you?

I wasn't very happy with it in the first place because i couldn't see a huge improvment in the car becuase i don't think i knew how to drive the car with the turbo i sort of was trying to drive it like a N/A car .. Now that i have the hang of it feels alot more resposive and now i'm using the tourqe more then just trying to flog it around..


I have a fair few things to iron out that will see a improvments along the way.

*Vr air box with snorkle into it.
*Air to Air intercooler.
*harder wastegate spring so it builds boost harder down lower doesn't have to rev it's nut off to make full boost.
*Heatshields
*Boonet scoop
*Heavier spring in the converter.
*Shorter fuel hose from converter to throttle body.
*run 14psi (when intercooler is fitted).
*A good tune with richer settings not so lean.
*More timming will be increased with intercooler fitted.


That's a few things i can improve on in the future with time.

I think IMHO with a new tune richer settings better timming set up and use a recommened Gas Research tunner that Gas Research suggest i think would make more hp just in that becuase i have had a fair few people comment on it running lean etc.

Anyone know if i need a harder wastegate spring or one of those bleed valves to make my lazy boost come on harder down lower.


Thanks alot

Rick.

did you end up putting a blow off valve in it?
because if you have never driven a turbo car without a blow off valve , you will be loosing alot of responsiveness when you lift off the throttle and then get back onto it.

i think you just need to take it to someone that knows what they are doing and looking for.

Jes

Jes, thats a good point you bought up. Lag is much less noticeable on Auto's during gearchanges as they are full throttle gear changes and boost does not drop at all. If you have a big turbo on a manual, boost will decay almost every gear change down to zero and take some time to respool unless setup well. Programmable ECU Anti-lag systems using throttle kickers, adding fuel and retarding timing help heaps here as it keeps the turbo singing.

Are you loosing much boost during gear changes mulisha.?

to do a engine conversion properly you would be looking at well over 5 grand, where a turbo set up would be around half that.

He has spent more than that on the turbo conversion!

Mulisha: Mate first and foremost you are getting great numbers, there is no question there.

Your AFR is fine, it is just preferable (safer) to be closer to 12. FACT: A lower AFR will cost you power.

When you up the boost, make sure you do it on a dyno where you can watch the AFR, because if you dont, it has a very real chance of going bang... don't be tempted spend the 70 bucks on a dyno. When you start running 14psi, make sure you increase the load on the actuator not just wind the boost valve, that will give you a tighter seal at the actuator, which equals less lag.

I'm not trying to sell you anything, but I have a brand new gas converter that can supply from a 3L to a 8L engine. I will have to look up the brand etc, but if you find that the spring idea doesnt work, drop me a PM and you can try the bigger converter.

bogged wrote:

GRINCH wrote:

BowTieGQ wrote:Sorry it's of topic Mulisha, but wouldn't you have been better fitting a Chev? Since you haven't skimped on money with your turbo setup, it probably would have been cheaper, a fresh engine and no fuss good power.

to do a engine conversion properly you would be looking at well over 5 grand, where a turbo set up would be around half that.

but the engine conversion would be up and runnin now

not if chapmans did it, they did a v8 into a mates cruiser and it yook them well over 6 months

bogged wrote:

Mulisha wrote:I'm driving my car around now

but you are not happy with it all are you?

Give the guy a break.

bogged wrote:

GRINCH wrote:

BowTieGQ wrote:Sorry it's of topic Mulisha, but wouldn't you have been better fitting a Chev? Since you haven't skimped on money with your turbo setup, it probably would have been cheaper, a fresh engine and no fuss good power.

to do a engine conversion properly you would be looking at well over 5 grand, where a turbo set up would be around half that.

but the engine conversion would be up and runnin now

umm the cost of a chev .... a 350 crate engine is like 7 grand for a new one 304 u could get for about 2 needs rebuilt a engine isnt that cheap

hmmm i dont know how many engine conversions u guys have done but i know with my brothers car he put a 304 in a torry and its not as simple as it sounds he has done a lot of tuneing and other things and spent a LOT more then 5 grand so yeah i think he has done ok there is usually a lot of small but cost full things that need to be done after it

Thanks alot guys

I'm using a blow off valve becuase i was suggested to becuase it would cause damage to the turbo if i didn't as the compressor surge wrecks the inside of the turbo becuase air is getting pushed the wrong way.

Tonight i might have a video of in car of the speddo and see what u guys think.

Thanks for all your interest it's good when others make good comments and suggestions and stuff.

Thanks

Rick.

Mulisha, I wasn't knocking what you've done as some seem to think. Quite the opposite. I too was going down the straight LPG turbo path myself. Been to GRA several times to work out what they have available and what I have to make. Been to other LPG suppliers for their options. I have got an EFI manifold here to start with. Went to several 4wd turbo places etc. I had most things sussed right down to which Garret even, but it was still very unkown territory. But there was no way to make it strong, reliable AND cheap. I also priced doing the chev conversion before I even bought the GQ ( hence BowTie ). I found the chev option cheaper and more reliable and better allrounder. But I must say, good on you for doing it. I'm very interested to see what I missed out on. Like I said, some think I'm knocking you, I only asked why.
Orsom, I wouldn't buy a crate engine anyway. The whole chev deal would have cost me less than $7k, not by much though. Depends on individuals ability and contacts.

BowTieGQ wrote:The whole chev deal would have cost me less than $7k, not by much though. Depends on individuals ability and contacts.

true its all personal opin i would rather a 304 with a strocker kit rather then a chev just my opin but yeah i think the turbo would still be a bit cheaper and it is pwoerfll with a few things that need to be done but yeah its weather u like hearing the v8 or a turbo is what u have to decide

Yeah no worrys bowtiegq i don't take anything to heart it's good to hear others oppions and suggestions becuase it could save alot of $$$ and also help alot of others out.

By the way bowtiegq how much hp/tourqe ur chev making at the rears it would be to see how hard a chev really does go.

Rick.

u got a vid of ya truck mate

Well i'll get that vid soon I forgot ..


Well i have decided before i rush into the intercooler i wanna sort out the other things like air box and heat shield and maybe a clucth (not slipping yet but might be after the intercooler and 14psi).


I'm going to get some prices on a clutch and stuff what price do u reakon i will be looking at .. i'll have to get it fitted as i don't have any gearbox jacks or anything

What price labour wise for a gearbox joint to fit up a clutch that i might be supplying as i might be able to get a good deal from VIC from my uncle.


Also with heatshields is some 1.6mm Stainless Steel bent over my turbo exhaust housing and cover my dump pipe to try stop this dam heat when i pop my bonnet feels like i just opened my 260degree fanforced oven

Also with temp of the car...

I have had a aftermarket sender/gauge fitted to the car a speco gauge and my temp today went to about 105 degrees then sender is fitted in the thermostat hosuing in the metal part were the radaitor pipe connects is this normal kinda scrared me this happened after a bit of rev up the road but not that hard..

Would cooling my intake temp by air box and intercooler help with engine temp?

Was 36 degree day here on the SunhsineCoast today as anyone around this area can confirm (what a prick of a day i'm sweating right now typing )

Also what turbo timmers are recommened is the SuperCheap $99 job any good?? Or should i look at a Apexi or HKS or something. (I hate waitting in the car for a minute or so to cool down..)..


Thanks alot guys for ya help!!

Cheers

Rick.

Nicks performance clutches archerfeild do a good custom clutch about $600 ish awsome clutch, mine seems to out perform the safari tuff in my mates gu
I wouldnt pay more than $400 for clutch fitment mine was $330
I run a rotronics turbo timer about $150 the unit is remote only need a small toggle switch visable
Id look into exhaust wrap as it will keep the heat in the pipe n send it out the exhaust though Ive never used it
If the exhaust temp is lowwer the engine temp will usually drop in a deisel anyway cant say for the petrol but if the EGT is lowwer the turbo will be cooler the oil will be cooler so water should be cooler

The bggest mistake with intercoolers is getting one that is completely free flowing. If the intercooler doesn't provide some restriction it will not cool the intake air. Around 1 psi is about right. If the cooler is to big it will have the same effect ie no cooling. So make sure you use the correct size for the hp you WILL have (not what you want).
A blow off valve is a very cheap form of protection. Turbo's are not cheap! But you have to put up with the wank factor with the sound!

Thanks alot guys for that info

That clucth sounds awersome is it rough when taking off and does it have a little play not just a dumping clucth?

I'm thinking of leaving my car running tommorow and then put my alarm on and see if it goes off or not..

Cheers

Rick.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pd4W-Z0sFBk

I was told that wrap will trap mositure in and then rust the manifold .. (not 100% sure if it's true though..)

whats wrong with a little bit of a sound , if ya get an intercooler go a PWR about $400-$800

bigbennymq wrote:whats wrong with a little bit of a sound , if ya get an intercooler go a PWR about $400-$800

Whats the diff between a PWR and a cheaper one for $180?
I didn't mean to be rude saying that but isn't the cooler ment to cool the air intake temp? I know piping should be as short as possible to reduce lagg and the cooler size well i was going to buy a big one like a 600x350x105 3" inlet and outlet.

Then run 3" pipe from the outlet onto the throttle body and 2.5" to the turbo inlet becuase the turbo has a 2.5" outlet..

Was looking at a Gteck cooler like the some vl's run on http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/index.php

Thanks everyone for ya oppions!

Rick...

check the garrett site for an intercooler not alot of people use them because they dont now that they even exist. so far they have been the best for all our aplictions (diesel or petrol)

What is your exhuast system?

I was going to go a straight through 3 inch and see what its like then maybe get a muffler

The clutch is as soft as std to use n is still an organic plate not a button clutch n id spend the little bit extra n get the better quality cooler
Nicks performance clutches 07 327709403 ask for doug

nastytroll wrote:The clutch is as soft as std to use n is still an organic plate not a button clutch n id spend the little bit extra n get the better quality cooler
Nicks performance clutches 07 327709403 ask for doug

Thanks alot mate i think i will look into that


I have a 3" mandrel sysstem with 3" dump pipe and straight thru muffler a small one (like a what a cannon is made up of just fiberglass around the outside and a pipe thru the center) I found the car have to much crackle and pi$$ed me off heaps with it staright thru..



I'm going to give GRA a ring today if i can and speak him to about people that can tune my car in QLD and if i need to look into a second b2 converter or not i kinda want to just keep the one ..

Also show him the results off the dyno Air/fuel mixtures and stuff and see what he reakons.

I wouldn't mind trying to bring my timming up but scared that i wn't hear it ping or whatever and blow a hole in the piston..

I might just check today with a timming light what timming on idle i'm running etc..

Cheers

Rick.