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Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:10 pm
by RAY185
bj on roids wrote:looks good buddy
x2. Price is very reasonable too. Well done.
Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 9:39 pm
by bubs
Yes you weld the plates on to your chassis.
Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 9:40 pm
by bubs
RAY185 wrote:bj on roids wrote:looks good buddy
x2. Price is very reasonable too. Well done.
Thanks
Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:34 am
by bj on roids
any pics of the dash from ehsan yet ruff?
Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 11:34 am
by shorty_f0rty
bubs wrote:If only I had this kit a few weeks ago.
Buddy
Hey bubs,
just wondernig if you are aware that the bolt pattern for the 62 box (maybe the 61 box as well) is slightly different to that of a normal 60 box..
you might want to check or make note of that in the product details..
and yes.. if only you had it a few weeks ago!
anyway.. looks good.
On another note.. in regards to the pitman arm... if you are running
standard shackles, you might find that the 62 (assume the 60 is the same) pitman arm will hit the spring on compression about 1-2inchs before the bumpstop. As mentioned previously a 75 or 80 series pitman arm should fix this.
Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 11:55 am
by bj on roids
is teh bolt pattern on a 75 series slightly different too?
i think it just steps across more??
Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 12:26 pm
by shorty_f0rty
shorty_f0rty wrote:On another note.. in regards to the pitman arm... if you are running standard shackles, you might find that the 62 (assume the 60 is the same) pitman arm will hit the spring on compression about 1-2inchs before the bumpstop. As mentioned previously a 75 or 80 series pitman arm should fix this.
it helps but it doesnt stop it hitting.. :(
Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:32 pm
by bubs
bj on roids wrote:is teh bolt pattern on a 75 series slightly different too?
i think it just steps across more??
no 75/60 are definatley the same
Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 2:52 pm
by bad_religion_au
80 and 62 are the same from memory too.
Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 12:46 pm
by bj on roids
any word on the 75 series dash ruff?
Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:08 pm
by RUFF
bj on roids wrote:any word on the 75 series dash ruff?
No Bingo!
Go and hassel Ehsan on Pirate. Here is the last page of the thread i got them from-
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... 36&page=15
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 4:32 pm
by bj on roids
maybe he got a job as a cheezy game show host :(
Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 9:44 am
by vk7ybi
![Image](http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/DionBramich/100_0516.jpg)
Whats happened with this column, it appears asthough the column firewall bucket has been lengthened, and the distance between the plastic column covers and dash is smaller.. I had ideas of doing this to try to mount my 55 column so that the steering wheel is in the stock location, rather than cutting and shortening the inner shaft and outer column.
Posted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 4:03 pm
by vk7ybi
RAY185 wrote:![Image](http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l74/ray185_2006/19-07-07_1057.jpg)
Ray, could you explain this photo please.. Looks like a 2F in a 40, with 60 PS, relocated battery and AC converted to onboard air.. What are clearances like, and what is the engine mount from? I'm keen to do onboard air, but dont want to lose the stock battery location if I can help it..
Posted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:20 pm
by RAY185
Oh man, that's way too many beers ago for me to remember specifics but the engine mount is from a a/c equiped 60 series 2F. Complete bolt on affair. Clearance was a little tight around the compressor but it was all good. I hate that it's so difficult to rig up an endless setup on the falcon motor as it worked so well.
You can probably keep the battery under the bonnet with some booty fab bracketry but I'm afraid "stock location" is not an option with 60 steer and the position the intermediate shaft needs to be in.
Posted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:56 pm
by vk7ybi
RAY185 wrote:Oh man, that's way too many beers ago for me to remember specifics
I understand..
I was going to fab a tray for the battery in the stockish location..
Other option is to move it to the other side of the bay, but that would mean relocating the gas regulator.. for every one modification, 6 others need to be made.. It never ends..
My old man has a 60 with the AC pump on there, I'll pinch his bits to mock it up to make the decision..
Re: 60series steering upgrade on the 40
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 5:12 pm
by shorty_f0rty
Bit of a grave dig (maybe someone could update the link to this thread in the cruiser bible?)
.. can someone please post info about the bush/bearing you need if you want to use the 40 series column?
Also, is the spline on the end of the 40 series rag joint compatible with that on the 7x intermediate shaft?
Re: 60series steering upgrade on the 40
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 6:10 pm
by vk7ybi
shorty_f0rty wrote:Also, is the spline on the end of the 40 series rag joint compatible with that on the 7x intermediate shaft?
No. The 70 male spline is smaller.
Re: 60series steering upgrade on the 40
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:03 pm
by shorty_f0rty
vk7ybi wrote:shorty_f0rty wrote:Also, is the spline on the end of the 40 series rag joint compatible with that on the 7x intermediate shaft?
No. The 70 male spline is smaller.
Cheers for that.. would you be able to get away with de-constructing an 80s rag joint to mate to the 40 shaft?
Re: 60series steering upgrade on the 40
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:15 pm
by vk7ybi
Thats what I did, half a 80 rag joint and half a large spline 70 joint to mate the 55 column to the 70 intermediate shaft.
Re: 60series steering upgrade on the 40
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:35 pm
by shorty_f0rty
hmmm. well I'm trying to sort out how to mate a standard 40 series steering column to the 70 series intermediate shaft.. I dont have a 55 column yet (and not holding my breath that we'll find one either) so trying to figure out if anyone has worked with a stock 40 series shaft.. I dont want to have to make any modifications to the shaft either, eg cut and spline.
With the 55 column I found the 80 series rag joint fit up to the 70 series intermediate with no modifications at all.. It could of been because my intermediate shaft was fine splined?
Re: 60series steering upgrade on the 40
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:50 pm
by RAY185
Andy. I did exactly what you're trying to do. There's a couple of mentions on it here but you'd have to search. There is a part number for the bush and a how to on jigging the 80 rag to work with the 40 rag so you have the right female spline to accept the 75 intermediate shaft. Works nice. Twisty ran it too I believe.
Re: 60series steering upgrade on the 40
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:10 pm
by shorty_f0rty
searching around.d. found this:
RAY185 wrote:Yeah I ended up using a nolathane VU/VY commodore radius rod to control arm bush. Part number is 48019. Its a bush kit with 4 bushes, 2 large and 2 small. The one you need is the small one (you'll have 3 bushes left over to use as ornaments or sex aids).
Use plenty of the supplied grease. The ID is perfect to support the column shaft and the OD fits nicely in the tube. The shoulder of the bush is the perfect thickess to sandwich between the tube and base plate. You will have to completely dismantle the column to get these parts apart to fit the bush. You'll need circlip pliers to remove the circlips holding the bearing at the top of the column inside the ignition switch housing. Apart from that its pretty straight forward. Probably a good time to clean out that bearing I mentioned and regrease it. No doubt yours will be gunged up with crap like the one I pulled out was.
Here's a pic of it installed.
![Image](http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l74/ray185_2006/26052009003.jpg)
Here is a pic of standard 40 series column and an 80 series box.
ShortAss40 wrote:
80 series Power Steering in position. It seems to fit perfectly! I've used the 40 series steering column with the 40 series rubber coupling. The spline on the coupling is the same as the intermediate shaft on the 80 series. Length is bloody perfect! Some times thing just seem to fit.
Re: 60series steering upgrade on the 40
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:36 pm
by shorty_f0rty
And a pic from 84sloth's builld thread (40 series on 80 series chassis)
![Image](http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/1470/dscf0086e.jpg)
Re: 60series steering upgrade on the 40
Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:22 am
by Shadow
Ive been fumbling through this myself so i will add some tech.
The 40(and 55) column has the 17mm course spline at the firewall.
The 80 series column has a smaller diametre, finer spline at the firewall end (where the rag joint attaches).
The 80 series intermediate shaft has a universal + rag joint attatched 1 end(cant seperate the rag from it), with about 14mm diametre finer spline on the end of the rag joint, and just a 17mm course spline at the steering box end, which has a removable uni joint to attatch to the box.
60 and 80 steer boxes both have 17mm course spline.
I never bolted it together, but i was 99% sure that I could use halfe the 40series rag joint, and half the 80 series rag joint which would then bolt to the 40series or 55series column.
The 80 series intermediate shaft does not collapse(althought it has that wierd ribbed section which might collapse in accident ??), and i dont know if the length will suit.
The HJ75 intermediate shaft is collapsible and so you can adjust it to suit your application. Im told you just drill a soft rivet???
I have been told The HZJ75 and HZJ79 intermediate shaft Does Not Collapse!!! (the collapsible section is in the column on these???)
My setup is a little different as I have FJ45 on 80 series chassis and i have moved the firewall 130mm into the engine bay.
So I have used a 60 series intermediate shaft which is much shorter and has a slip joint which lets me adjust very easily about 30mm.
Re: 60series steering upgrade on the 40
Posted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 9:44 pm
by shorty_f0rty
Working through an upgrade today we've learned a few things...
1) 40 column + 80 rag joint adapted + 75 intermediate shaft + 80 series box = means the 75 intermediate needs to be cut down to fit
2) 80 box and notched shock tower requires further 'dishing out' of the shock tower or spacing away from the chassis to make room for the uni at the box to rotate..
3) think this was mentioned before but had forgotten, 80 series box + pitman arm requires 80 TRE to fit the taper on the pitman arm.
4) to make the 80 rag joint fit the 40 steering column you need to press out the solid pegs (or belt with a drift) from the 80 rag joint (thanks Ray for the photos and tips). This then allows you to put it back together as per 40 rag joint and bolt it all up. (will get some photos to add tomorrow).