Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i'm really considering pink cammo now lol this sierra is going to be awesome.

Any plans for new boots (Muddies/Tires) ... Some Super swamper Boggers would set it of nicely...

If an independent/local 4wd shop was smart, they could consider the marketing appeal with such an eye catching vehicle like this will be, to get more girls like Haley into DIY 4wding by sponsoring her with say- some recovery gear or even a set of new boots for the zook!
Of course the obligatory windscreen sticker for the shop would be necessary, but think of what returns a local 4wd shop would achieve from supporting a passionate, young enthusiast like Haley!?
With all the attention she's gonna get with her bling Pink Cammo truck and having done it all in her dads garage- from a business point of view, you'd be silly not to.
Btw, Dad would need a slab of Beam as well if that happened Haley!

Just food for thought!

Mike

P.s. If you don't get a high distinction or an A++ for this, post up your teachers address, I'm sure we could organise to pay them a 'friendly' visit...

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:Any plans for new boots (Muddies/Tires) ... Some Super swamper Boggers would set it of nicely...

The tyres were replaced soon after we bought the car, as I was using it for work. The original Goodyears (225/75/15) were well worn and causing the death wobbles.
Swopped them for some Hankook Dynamic Z36LT's. They are an AT tread and were well priced from a friend in the tyre game(Total Traction Tyres - Lonsdale for all you Adelaidian's).
Went down a size to 215/75/15 and the zook drives A LOT better.

It would be nice to go to a larger tyre, but it would need gearing alterations to suit.

cookie monster

the tyre fixation is overated
if she is going to drive it regularly its better to maximise its onroad capabilty, things like good shocks, fresh steering dampner and swaybar (there i said it) will help her driving when its needed far more than any lift/tyre /gearing will offroad

Besides if she can't drive a whole section of a trail she could just winch it

Tyre fixation is not overated, doesn't matter how capable your 4b is it'll only go as far as your tyres will let you. If you can put up with the on road drawbacks of decent muddies then you might aswell put them on, if not then put on the most agressive tyre you can live with I say.

What your better off doing is keeping the muddies in the garage for the weekends.

If you use the vehicle on tarmac for more than 50% of it's milage and don't need to traverse a boulder field on a daily basis then the bigger tyres are show pony-ing. (or damn laziness)

Most full set of stock tyres and rims go on ebay for less than $100. At that price why not keep them and have the muddies in the shed for when you need them. Less wear, better fuel economy and increased engine performance.

Been keeping my eye out on the council clean up for a cordless drill, i figure i will rig it up to some old jumper leads and have myself a portable electric ratchet/drill

Santos wrote:What your better off doing is keeping the muddies in the garage for the weekends.

thats the plan... and she will become a gun at changing wheels over in record time!

Will be hanging out for the 'unveiling'

Rear Recovery Hooks

We wanted the zook to have some good recovery points on the rear, so we fitted a couple of recovery hooks.


Holes were already in the chassis for the towbar mount, but on closer inspection the hook/bolt would foul on the shackle. This was because we had to space the hook down to avoid the bumper. So a couple more holes were drilled through the chassis a bit futher rearward.
Spacer


Drilling holes in spacers












Drilling Holes in Chassis


The packers were used as a template for the second hole




Fitting up the hook






Finished Hooks




cookie monster

Righ off track, but can you post a pic of the shackle angle, your rear looks like its is leaning forward. Thats going to give you bugger all flex, and a really average ride. (if the car is on stands as that hook fitting photo was taken then just ignore me ).

Keep up the good work

Layto....

I would have incline to make a backing plate to go inside the chassis rail

X2.

The reinforcement is on the wrong side of the rail. It will help prevent the hook tearing out laterally under a side load, but won't assist in ultimate tensile strength.

Those washers are really designed for chassis 4-5mm thick.

Steve.

cookie monster wrote:

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:Good work guys, do I sense a little bit of wanting to get it finished....

You should hit the steering column with a coat of black paint as well to match the new Steering wheel and shiny black Boss kit that went on.... Or is the whole dash getting a pink Fur covering......

Yes the steering column shroud will be getting some paint, does the wheel have to come off to get the shrouds off ?

We have just about finished, only the shrouds to paint and the bonnet to cut and polish after some fresh paint was put on last weekend to fix up an unsightly area.

cookie monster

Yep,

two fair sze cup head allan key bolts under the dash area attaching to the tubular cross member, release a half dozen threads and you should have clearance to slide the top shroud off.

Spock

Far out havn't seen the thread in a few weekes and it's come so far!

Well done lookin the goods!

lay80n wrote:Righ off track, but can you post a pic of the shackle angle, your rear looks like its is leaning forward. Thats going to give you bugger all flex, and a really average ride. (if the car is on stands as that hook fitting photo was taken then just ignore me ).

Keep up the good work

Layto....

Rear Suspension


Front Suspension


If the rear shackle angle is not ideal, how would we overcome it? Remove the bottom leaf to reduce the spring rate?
Also if we remove the bolt that is retaining the spring pack(pic of front shackle) im guessing that will alow more flex?

Had a play the other night and in 2wd the front would not quite make it up one 4wd car ramp, without spinning a rear wheel(with sway bar connected). Disconnected the front swaybar and it went up in 2wd.

Also tried the ramps on front & diagonally opposite rear. Made it 3/4 of the way up and spun a front wheel(sway bar disconnected).

I was planning to remove the spring pack retainers and trying again.

cookie monster

Pinball wrote:

cookie monster wrote:

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:Good work guys, do I sense a little bit of wanting to get it finished....

You should hit the steering column with a coat of black paint as well to match the new Steering wheel and shiny black Boss kit that went on.... Or is the whole dash getting a pink Fur covering......

Yes the steering column shroud will be getting some paint, does the wheel have to come off to get the shrouds off ?

We have just about finished, only the shrouds to paint and the bonnet to cut and polish after some fresh paint was put on last weekend to fix up an unsightly area.

cookie monster

Yep,

two fair sze cup head allan key bolts under the dash area attaching to the tubular cross member, release a half dozen threads and you should have clearance to slide the top shroud off.

Spock

Thanks for that. Had a lok on the weekend and figured it out. Like you said, removed the two bolts holding the steering column to the cross member, then loosened the top 2 nuts that hold the steering column to the fire wall.
Just managed to wriggle the trim out. It was very sun damaged, but has come up ok, could really do with a better one though. When I get round to taking a trip across town to the zook scrap yard, ill have a look for a replacement.

cookie monster

Gwagensteve wrote:X2.

The reinforcement is on the wrong side of the rail. It will help prevent the hook tearing out laterally under a side load, but won't assist in ultimate tensile strength.

Those washers are really designed for chassis 4-5mm thick.

Steve.

The washers are 3mm thick structural 'hard' washers. These are high tensile rated.
I may look at making a 3-4mm thick plate for inside the chassis rail as it would spread the load over a larger area.

Thanks for the input guys.

cookie monster

They're great washers Cookiemonster, my only point is that they're not really big enough to back up a 2.5mm thick chassis. Those hooks are intended to mount on a "conventional" chassis which are normally 4mm (or so) thick- like the end of a hilux or patrol chassis, and the washers are sized to suit.

Steve.

what subject is this getting done up for at school?

cookie monster wrote:

lay80n wrote:Righ off track, but can you post a pic of the shackle angle, your rear looks like its is leaning forward. Thats going to give you bugger all flex, and a really average ride. (if the car is on stands as that hook fitting photo was taken then just ignore me ).

Keep up the good work

Layto....

Rear Suspension


Front Suspension


If the rear shackle angle is not ideal, how would we overcome it? Remove the bottom leaf to reduce the spring rate?
Also if we remove the bolt that is retaining the spring pack(pic of front shackle) im guessing that will alow more flex?

Had a play the other night and in 2wd the front would not quite make it up one 4wd car ramp, without spinning a rear wheel(with sway bar connected). Disconnected the front swaybar and it went up in 2wd.

Also tried the ramps on front & diagonally opposite rear. Made it 3/4 of the way up and spun a front wheel(sway bar disconnected).

I was planning to remove the spring pack retainers and trying again.

cookie monster

The shackle should be layed back the other way, about 40 degree or so. The way it is pointing now (leaned forward) it will provide a very stiff ride and little down travel. Basically you need to get some longer springs, as the ones fitted are either too short or have too much arch. What brand leaves are they? Also, check your shocks, they may be incorrect length, as you should be able to ramp the two car ramps with the sway bar off. Drop the shocks and try it, see what happens.

Layto....

The springs are Terrain Taimer SUZI 01 front & SUZI 02 rear. The shocks are TT also, but one is stamped TJM with TT stickers on ?

Cant seem to find any info on the suspension kit via internet, so will have a talk to my mechanic who is a dealer.

cheers for info

cookie monster

worked with ome a while ago, they are one of the very few who make thier leaves longer...most manufacturers just put in more arch....

As Joe said, very few aftermarket springs acutally lengthen the main leaf to keep an "acceptable" shackle angle. Speak to your mechanic/dealer and see if he has any options. Though before you worry about it too much, see how it drives, it might be fine for you. But i think it will be stiff and choppy in the rear. The shackle angle will deffinatley limit droop, but by how much is hard to guess. Depending on your shock lenghts, they may be the limiting factor anyway.

Layto....

UNVEILING??????

im sure im not the only one hanging to see this finished!

Pics of the car will be posted up tomorrow (saturday) late arvo/early evening.

Ill then do some more pics of the zook outside the garage in daylight, to give a better indication of what she looks like.

Just to keep you all interested, here is a sneek peek


cookie monster

Looking forward to it

this thing is gunna look KOOL , iv been hanging out to see this finished, but now the end is in sight...

great work guys, im sure you have both learned ALOT from this

-Pyro

oh stop teasing!!

Followed this thread since the begining it's been great to see,I can't wait to see the final result! Finally time to throw off the covers! YEY!

Waiting patiently