WaveCult wrote:Did they just honk at you or were they honking at all Sierra's?
I didn't see any other sierra's keeping up with me.
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Rebuilding Greg's Sierra
Post Weekend Update:
Well - i finally got a chance to go up and work on the little car again... We dropped the gearbox out of the car (again) and it looks like we may have worked out where all the racket was coming from... So it looks like another semi-rebuild is going to have to happen there and hopefully this will fix both the shifting issues, and the gear noise...
On happier news - the cage is sitting in the car and I spent some time on saturday building the gussets for some of the tube intersect points.
We also measured up the new (second hand) shocks for the rear and i cut another two holes through the floor a few inches behind the fuel tank. They are going to be mounted about 6" above the floor level on a cross member of the roll cage (which is connected to the chassis)... should be good.
Again the sucker for upgrades issue kicked in and i'm now doing some more r and d into making the rear into 3/4 elyptic just for a bit more travel and because i love grinding oh-so-much
New deadline of the 11th of October has been set for the gearbox and shock mounts as i'm running a trip then... we'll see how we go.
Well - i finally got a chance to go up and work on the little car again... We dropped the gearbox out of the car (again) and it looks like we may have worked out where all the racket was coming from... So it looks like another semi-rebuild is going to have to happen there and hopefully this will fix both the shifting issues, and the gear noise...
On happier news - the cage is sitting in the car and I spent some time on saturday building the gussets for some of the tube intersect points.
We also measured up the new (second hand) shocks for the rear and i cut another two holes through the floor a few inches behind the fuel tank. They are going to be mounted about 6" above the floor level on a cross member of the roll cage (which is connected to the chassis)... should be good.
Again the sucker for upgrades issue kicked in and i'm now doing some more r and d into making the rear into 3/4 elyptic just for a bit more travel and because i love grinding oh-so-much
New deadline of the 11th of October has been set for the gearbox and shock mounts as i'm running a trip then... we'll see how we go.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
TuffRR wrote:Greg - i was wondering what sort of fuel economy you were getting with that monster motor of yours?
To be honest Tuff, I don't know what sort of milage i'm getting out of it - there are two issues that i have at the moment.
1. the trip counter doesn't reset back to zeros
2. i haven't kept track of litres put in
It is something that i plan on working out eventually - but it hasn't happened as yet.
However, considering that my tyresize and driveline gearing is all quite a bit off stock - i don't expect that the milage that i am getting would mean very much to anyone else - unless they had the exact same setup.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
TuffRR wrote:I used to find with my Sierra that regardless of the tyres i was running or how heavily packed the car was i would ALWAYS get around 10kms/litre or 400kms a tank.
In that case your car was obviously more aerodynamic, or the engine was in better nick than my old one because i was getting closer to 300 - 350 per tank...
That was on the old 1.3 smoker though...DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Hey Tuff,
check here for some more info about milage from suzukis.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... itre+liter
cheers
check here for some more info about milage from suzukis.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... itre+liter
cheers
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Greg, I have just read this whole post. I am intrigued, I always fancied the caps, drove one and wanted one.
My question is on the gearbox tho.
If I read correctly, the cap box won't bolt up to the 1L zook, could it be adapted to the 1.3L zook? do you think. I am interested in the taller gearing along with the lower 1st gear.
Can you post the gear ratios by any chance?
LM
My question is on the gearbox tho.
If I read correctly, the cap box won't bolt up to the 1L zook, could it be adapted to the 1.3L zook? do you think. I am interested in the taller gearing along with the lower 1st gear.
Can you post the gear ratios by any chance?
LM
It's better to have LIVED for a day than to have EXISTED for a hundred years.
Luigi Malone wrote:Greg, I have just read this whole post. I am intrigued, I always fancied the caps, drove one and wanted one.
My question is on the gearbox tho.
If I read correctly, the cap box won't bolt up to the 1L zook, could it be adapted to the 1.3L zook? do you think. I am interested in the taller gearing along with the lower 1st gear.
Can you post the gear ratios by any chance?
LM
Luigi,
There's a heap of information about the cappo here:
http://www.suzuki-cappuccino.com/phpbb2 ... .php?t=141
The 1st gear ratio is 3.478 (as per the above link), which is a little higher than the 1.3 sierra i think... The lowest 1st would have come out of a 660 Jimny from Japan which i believe have a 4.1 1st gear... but they aren't exactly a common item around here
There are a few issues with the gear box...
The box in the cap is shorter than the 1.3 box, but it comes with an adaptor that attaches to the back of it (about another 300mm in total length) to which the shifter attaches to. When fitting this to the sierra, it would have meant that the gearstick would have come up though the floor between the handbrake and the transfer case stick - this would not have been ideal.
To get around this, we cracked the top off the box where the shifter rods were and welded some shifter rods onto them from a 1L box (which we had lying around - thanks Chris), these brought the 'H-Pattern' within 100mm of the stock sierra position so we were pretty happy with it... We then whipped up an adaptor plate to sit on to of the box and hold a 1L gear stick...
This has brought us to where we are now... the detent spring from the 1L shifter now sits further above the shifter forks then the stock shifter would have and this allows it to leverage and twist the shift forks more so than a normal stock set up would have... The negative affect of this is that the shifter forks are pushed against the gears in the box and 'pre-load' them - this makes shifting gears near impossible for some of the gears...
When we first realised that the box was a different length than the sierra box we checked if we could fit a 1.3, or a 1L sierra box to the back of the cappo engine - that was not the case... we also tried fitting the 1L gears into the cappo box to allow us to use the back end of the 1L box too - but that didn't fit either...
Although not 100 percent sure, the easiest options if you wanted the F6A or K6A motor would be to get the front cut from a Japanese Jimny (sierra), that would already have the gearbox that you would want etc...
These are also available in an Auto too
Some other boxes that we are curious about include some of the very last 1L cases - but i don't have any of these so we haven't tried fitting them to the back of the case... Another option would also be getting an adaptor plate to fit the 1L or 1.3L case to the back of the cappo box... I'm not sure why we haven't tried that as yet...
Anyways, so that current plan of attach is actually to remove the welded on 1L shifter rails, and rig up a new system of transfering the 1L H pattern feed into the cappo box's H pattern... Pretty complex stuff really... I'll try to get my friend (who is the brains and braun behind the project) to take a few photos so that you can see what i mean rather than trying to picture it from my terrible writeup.
Cheers
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Luigi Malone wrote:Greg, I have just read this whole post. I am intrigued, I always fancied the caps, drove one and wanted one.
My question is on the gearbox tho.
Oh, and I'm also now intrigued by the little cars now - but they are way more expensive here then they are over were you are.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
As an aside on the subject of motor swaps, has anyone tried fitting a complete E/West motor and trans in a sierra?
I am thinking that it already has a diff. If this was welded and the left front axle used or converted to a shaft into the t/case and the other axle cut and covered then some very low ratios are possible. The Front wheel drive Swift Gti for instance, is very compact when compared to a Sierra motor and transmission. And it includes a diff. The motor mounts are the same.
Any thoughts? or anyone done this?
Rough calculations with transfer case gears and ring and pinions would put the ORR at over 300:1
LM.
I am thinking that it already has a diff. If this was welded and the left front axle used or converted to a shaft into the t/case and the other axle cut and covered then some very low ratios are possible. The Front wheel drive Swift Gti for instance, is very compact when compared to a Sierra motor and transmission. And it includes a diff. The motor mounts are the same.
Any thoughts? or anyone done this?
Rough calculations with transfer case gears and ring and pinions would put the ORR at over 300:1
LM.
It's better to have LIVED for a day than to have EXISTED for a hundred years.
Post Weekend Update:
Not much to report but there was (hopefully) a victory (yet to be confirmed) with the gear box so with a bit of luck it could be up and driving again (which would be a major relief)...
A bit more progress was made on the cage too with some more tubes put in place and some gussets prepped up ready to go in too...
The cage is going to be tied into the chassis via plates on both sides of the floor so it should be nice and solid once completed... I must say that it is a slow item to make though
Some day it will be back out and about though
Not much to report but there was (hopefully) a victory (yet to be confirmed) with the gear box so with a bit of luck it could be up and driving again (which would be a major relief)...
A bit more progress was made on the cage too with some more tubes put in place and some gussets prepped up ready to go in too...
The cage is going to be tied into the chassis via plates on both sides of the floor so it should be nice and solid once completed... I must say that it is a slow item to make though
Some day it will be back out and about though
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Pre-Notes to the Reader:
Please Note that there are no photos attached to this post, so if you have below average visualising skills don't bother reading this post until i have had a chance to post up some pics, then come back and read this post and it will all be good.
Post Weekend Update:
My goodness, what a weekend, what progress...
First up, the gearbox...
We cracked open the original case to determine what was the problem... the scenario was that it appeared to be stuck in 4th all the time... Now remember that 4th is a 1:1 gear (straight through) on this car (and i believe most manuals for that matter). So we were looking for two possible problems:
1. Was it a problem with 4th gear, or
2. was there an issue that was locking the input shaft to the output shaft directly causing the two to always spin at the same speed.
It turned out that it was number 2 - because a bearing next to 4th gear was not on the shaft far enough (only 2mm off), the synchro for 2nd gear was locking the input shaft solid to the main shaft (wierd eh) and this meant that the drive being pushed into the gearbox was always coming out the output shaft... it also mean that if you were in any gear other than 4th, the main shaft was trying to be turned at 2 speeds - 1:1 and whatever gear you were in - this would make the car stall out...
So we dropped out the gear box that was in it, cracked it open and grabbed the adaptor plate off it and stuck it onto the newly re-assembled original case... that went back into the car and wollah (is that how you spell that?), we were back in business - the gear box is now super quiet and it is back to driving like the mad-cap that it is We had it reving at 7,500 rpms in low range to test out the gear box and it was still quiet (estimately 150kms if it were in high range)...
We also opened up the box that was in the car - turns out that the 2nd gear synchro was chewed out pretty bad - we suspect it is because the previous owner ran the box at Auto Transmission Fluid - it appears as though it has just simply warn away the synchro so much that the gear would not be changed into or out of smoothly...
Don't worry - we took some photos of the gear box and the adaptor plate - so some good sense can be made of this once i manage to get them up.
The Other big big development that happened over the weekend was the roll cage... All the super gussetts were welded into place... We also made up some floor plates (to mount the cage to the floor
), and some under floor plates which would then be connected via some tube to the chassis - so we end up with the body sandwhiched between the plates, and the cage effectively mounts directly to the chassis... should make it super strong (or at least as strong as the chassis is ).
These mounts have all since been completed, so the cage is all in place and painted up...
Don't worry, i've taken about a hundred and one photos of the cage in its development so these may appear up here someday too ...
Finally the rear shockmounts, these were tied into the back part of the cage and sit 5" above the floor in the back of the car, just behind the fuel tank (so storage room is kind of minimalised)...
And again, i'm sure that photos can be arranged so it will all be clear eventually
Anyways, it looks like we have gotten the car to a drivable stage in time for the trip that i'm running this weekend, so that has been a great effort, and with a bit of luck - it'll be a great success too...
Please Note that there are no photos attached to this post, so if you have below average visualising skills don't bother reading this post until i have had a chance to post up some pics, then come back and read this post and it will all be good.
Post Weekend Update:
My goodness, what a weekend, what progress...
First up, the gearbox...
We cracked open the original case to determine what was the problem... the scenario was that it appeared to be stuck in 4th all the time... Now remember that 4th is a 1:1 gear (straight through) on this car (and i believe most manuals for that matter). So we were looking for two possible problems:
1. Was it a problem with 4th gear, or
2. was there an issue that was locking the input shaft to the output shaft directly causing the two to always spin at the same speed.
It turned out that it was number 2 - because a bearing next to 4th gear was not on the shaft far enough (only 2mm off), the synchro for 2nd gear was locking the input shaft solid to the main shaft (wierd eh) and this meant that the drive being pushed into the gearbox was always coming out the output shaft... it also mean that if you were in any gear other than 4th, the main shaft was trying to be turned at 2 speeds - 1:1 and whatever gear you were in - this would make the car stall out...
So we dropped out the gear box that was in it, cracked it open and grabbed the adaptor plate off it and stuck it onto the newly re-assembled original case... that went back into the car and wollah (is that how you spell that?), we were back in business - the gear box is now super quiet and it is back to driving like the mad-cap that it is
We had it reving at 7,500 rpms in low range to test out the gear box and it was still quiet (estimately 150kms if it were in high range)...
We also opened up the box that was in the car - turns out that the 2nd gear synchro was chewed out pretty bad - we suspect it is because the previous owner ran the box at Auto Transmission Fluid - it appears as though it has just simply warn away the synchro so much that the gear would not be changed into or out of smoothly...
Don't worry - we took some photos of the gear box and the adaptor plate - so some good sense can be made of this once i manage to get them up.
The Other big big development that happened over the weekend was the roll cage... All the super gussetts were welded into place... We also made up some floor plates (to mount the cage to the floor
), and some under floor plates which would then be connected via some tube to the chassis - so we end up with the body sandwhiched between the plates, and the cage effectively mounts directly to the chassis... should make it super strong (or at least as strong as the chassis is ).
These mounts have all since been completed, so the cage is all in place and painted up...
Don't worry, i've taken about a hundred and one photos of the cage in its development so these may appear up here someday too
...
Finally the rear shockmounts, these were tied into the back part of the cage and sit 5" above the floor in the back of the car, just behind the fuel tank (so storage room is kind of minimalised)...
And again, i'm sure that photos can be arranged so it will all be clear eventually
Anyways, it looks like we have gotten the car to a drivable stage in time for the trip that i'm running this weekend, so that has been a great effort, and with a bit of luck - it'll be a great success too...
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
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