Outer Limits 4x4 Board

probably won't be before the weekened now, flat out this week. remind me on thursday.

cheers

oh, the bearing, the bearing. it uses the factory bearing retainer doodad, with the brake backing plate hacked off, err I mean carefully removed.

make sense?

Got all the engine out of the supra and fixed the rear turbo...

All is good apart from the engine mounts not being right. Wrong angle, 8cm too far forward and 8 cm too high. I am pissed off.


Nick

BUNDERA wrote:Got all the engine out of the supra and fixed the rear turbo...

All is good apart from the engine mounts not being right. Wrong angle, 8cm too far forward and 8 cm too high. I am pissed off.


Nick

I should have said something earlier

BUNDERA,

You should have seen that coming!!!
How is the sump clearance, does the 1GGTE have a rear dropping or mid dropping sump?

Not as bad as I fisrt suspected. I can fix it pretty easily.....

Grind off the drivers side chassis mont.
Make 2 new engine mounts.
The passenger one will bolt straight in and I will attach the drivers one to the engine along with the chassis mount and then drop the whole lot in and weld away!

Make sence?

Anyway I dont mind, excuse to use dad's new mig welder!!!
ALL IN THE NAME OF LEARNING!!!

Wont bother doing anything else until later this week.

Nick

whats happening with this POS man

Heaps of Stuff...

Welded up new engine mounts.

Still need to weld the chassie mounts in their new position...


Might do it this weekedend if I get a chance.

Nick

How is Your POS going?

Gday
You may have to change diff ratios somewhere down the track. The dunnydore motor and diesel diffs mate up ok, but the 22r will be alot lower, dunnydore motor is torquey but uses plenty of juice when revved.
The 1gg motor would be a good transplant or a 7mge toyota twincam, someone said they bolt straight up aswell in the hilux.
If you want commodore motor, i would check out pickles.com for a writeoff, should get a whole car for 1k
Andrew

I chopped off the chassie mounts today and bolted them to the engine mounts on the engine.

Lowered the engine into the engine bay (just sitting there at the moment although alot of the weight is being supported by the winch still, just in case it slips)

It is sitting in there up against the gearbox nicely. ( I had to put it in neautral to push it for a change!! )

Will keep u better informed when it is welded in place!

Regards,
Nick

PICS please!

Yeah sorry I will get some tomorrow.

3 Words....FIREWALL MODS NEEDED....



Nick

Oh cr@p don't say that!!

What's fouling?

skip from what bundera tells me ... the rear mounted turbo is hittin the fire wall big time

BUNDERA wrote:Yeah sorry I will get some tomorrow.

3 Words....FIREWALL MODS NEEDED....



Nick

thats the first I have heard for this type of conversion?

stress less people!!!

I let out my anger on that section with a *ucking great hammer. I was really agry

Infact I let out so much anger that the thing clears easily now. Firewall doesnt look too ordinary too .

I will post some pics the arvo.

i made some new powersteer pipes
I put the Charcoal canister back in (shut up bj )
blead the clutch system
installed ecu unit (inside the cab on the back of the firewall),
new oil / oilfilter (momo )
mounted ignition coil

Today I will mod the radiator...btw,can u use a mig welder on a radiator or will I just make big holes?

Should have it done within 3 weeks!

Pics later today...I promise.

Nick

DO NOT GO NEAR YOUR RADIATOR WITH A MIG !!!!!!

best to solder it !!!!!

Thanks moose i will go and get it solderd at a radiator shop.

Just need to swap the sides of the inlet and outlet hoses. Shouldn't cost too much.

Pics later tonight.

nick

radiator mods are easy as with a propane torch or oxy, some tinplate and silver solder

have you spoken to an engineer? last time I was talking to one, firewall modifications of any kind could not be allowed for road registration.

or in tasmania does nobody care? ;)

dumbdunce wrote:or in tasmania does nobody care?

it depends which head you talk to in tassie

regarding the firewall mods (coming from both heads thanks ruggers) I simply slipped with the hammer.

Ok I will post some pics up...

Nick

OK, sounds like you got all the mechanical side worked out nicely!!

Wiring time. Inside the passenger side kick panel in the 1/2 cut, there are a few relays, one of these is marked CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY, you need this. You will also need the small wiring loom that comes directly out of the back of where this relay is mounted to. Its a bit of a pain in the arse, but you will have to trace some of the wires (from the relay holder) back up into the dash. It will then go back into a plug that joins into the motor loom, ie, one of the 3 connectors NOT directly associated with the ECU.The wire colours that are associated with the relay are
a) black with white stripe (starter motor cranking signal IN, from key switch)
b) black with orange stripe (IGNITION power from an ignition relay)+ there is a smaller black with ornge stripe, join these 2 together
c) black with blue stripe (fuel pump OUTPUT)
d) small green wire (this should be the signal from the air flow meter, stays in loom connector)
e) small black and red (stays in the loom connector), i think this has no use

NOw, there is a small 4 or 6 pin connector next to the coil/igniter connector on the engine loom (coming out from just behind/below the alternater). This leads into another relay in the relay/fuse box in the engine bay of the 1/2 cut. Where this connector joins onto the chassis loom in the 1/2 cut, you must trace it back up into the relay/fuse box and cut out the plastic holder where the relay sits in (allong with keeping the 4/5 wires attached, and the relay). Once you've done this, you will need to solder a length of wire onto the power wire (black with orange stripe I THINK) and join this length of wire to the IGNITION power from the ignition relay i talked about with the circuit opening relay( you will have to put this relay in, just a bosch one or something).

Once all this is hooked up, turn the key and it SHOULD fire, but it has been a while since ive fiddled with the factory ECU and loom on one of these (one of the joys of aftermarket ECU's, so much simpler!)

I hope you understand what ive writen, if not, just PM me (with your mobile number), and will go from there

Phill

ok here we go people...

more

last one for now

Thanks for the detailed post slowhilux. i will print out what you wrote and try to figure it out with the loom in front of me.

i still have to weld the chassie mounts back on as they are just sitting there. hence the winch still holding a little bit of the engine weight.


I will get back to you re the wiring.


Regards,
Nick

Modified the radiator mounts today.
not the inlet and outlet spouts as I am going to try to keep them where they are and work around them.

Have the bottom hose connected but I will have to bend a piece of pipe 180 degrees for the top one to work properly.

Installed the accelerator cable and took a good look at the wiring..

A little nasty but I will have a good go at it on the weekend.

The only thing I need and dont have is a fuel pump...

What would people recommend? I was thinking of getting one out of a VL commodore or something like that..

Should I look at making a surge tank with a lift pump seeing as the fuel tank is most likely not baffeled?

Regards,
Nick

I ran a VL external pump with no surge can and never had a drama. But i cant say that yours will be the same. You would be better off running a surge can and using a faucet pump to lift fuel to it then the VL pump after that. The VL pump will do the job just fine they are good for at least 300HP.

BUNDERA: I would assume there is a lift pump in the tank of the Bundera already, have a look. If so you have two options:

1. Replace it with an efi Bosch swimmer pump.

2. Use it to supply a surge tank, then run the VL turbo pump afterwards.

A surge tank would definetly be an advantage for hardcore 4wd'ing.

there is no pump in the bundy tank, they are carbed and rely on the engine mechanical pump only. there is however a large port on the top of the tank that is accessible from the top without dropping the tank and as an alternative to the VL pump any submersible pump (with sufficient capacity) should work, you just have to adapt it to the tank cover plate. you could construct some baffles around the pump to live down in the tank and hang the whole lot off the tank cover plate. but it might be easier to go for the external surge tank, with the turbo you don't ever want to let it lean out or its bye bye pistons