Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Goldey wrote:Dear Doctor Exhaust

This has been a riveting read.

I myself am too looking for advice. I have a 2.7 litre petrol (3RZ-FE)Toyota Prado (ie not much go go ). Have toyed with lots of ideas about engine transplants etc, but dollars are an issue .

What in your opinion could be done with the exhaust to yield a few more ponies. The system at the moment is the stock standard one and is looking pretty suss in terms of rust, so now is going to be a good time for a replacement.

Would there be anyone who makes a performance header/extractors for this model??? Is 2.5" system going to be too big and restrict flow?

Thanks in advance

Goldy

cant find any listings on prado extractors
beeing only a relitively small eng i think 2.25" is proberly a better size again with large straight through mufflers

Exhaustfix,

Have you had much to do with late model diesels such as 3.0l Patrols? Do they have a restrictive dump pipe like the 4.2td? I had a quick look under my 3.0 and it looks like the cat comes straight from the turbo. Is this right? Would I benefit from a 3" system? I think the turbo outlet is 2.5". Would you replace the whole system from the back of the turbo including a new cat or no cat or just from the back of the cat. What performance increase and of course what dollars $$ am i looking at? Many questions I know but thanks in advance.

Leroy

bogged wrote:Exhaustfix,

Have you had much to do with late model diesels such as 3.0l Patrols? Do they have a restrictive dump pipe like the 4.2td? I had a quick look under my 3.0 and it looks like the cat comes straight from the turbo. Is this right? Would I benefit from a 3" system? I think the turbo outlet is 2.5". Would you replace the whole system from the back of the turbo including a new cat or no cat or just from the back of the cat. What performance increase and of course what dollars $$ am i looking at? Many questions I know but thanks in advance.

Leroy

sorry i missed you question on page 4 but i think i have to put in a compo claim to ol for rsi

yes they look like they have room for a lot of improvement
larger dump larger cat 3" system
i would say about $1100 cost
thanks
ross

Doctor Exhaust
I live in New Zealand, so please dont hold that against me.

What system do you recomend for a 5.7 chevy LT1 engine, ie block huggers and what size pipes

Thanks for really great reading

legsx1 wrote:Doctor Exhaust
I live in New Zealand, so please dont hold that against me.

What system do you recomend for a 5.7 chevy LT1 engine, ie block huggers and what size pipes

Thanks for really great reading

Dont use block huggers they are not much better then manifolds
get a set made 1/58"4nto1
abd a 2.5' twin system
i can tell you this will give you a gain of 26klw at the rear wheels

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

legsx1 wrote:Doctor Exhaust
I live in New Zealand, so please dont hold that against me.

What system do you recomend for a 5.7 chevy LT1 engine, ie block huggers and what size pipes

Thanks for really great reading

Dont use block huggers they are not much better then manifolds
get a set made 1/58"4nto1
abd a 2.5' twin system
i can tell you this will give you a gain of 26klw at the rear wheels

Looking to upgrade the exhaust on my RR.
HAS a HSV 215 fitted (crate engine last of before LS1).

current exhaust = manifolds Cast.
engine pipes to 2 into 3 inch mandrel system.

engine pipes to 2 into 1 colector into full flow cat into staight through mufffler and out at rear.

would like a set of extractors OR.

Michael.

HSV Rangie wrote:

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

legsx1 wrote:Doctor Exhaust
I live in New Zealand, so please dont hold that against me.

What system do you recomend for a 5.7 chevy LT1 engine, ie block huggers and what size pipes

Thanks for really great reading

Dont use block huggers they are not much better then manifolds
get a set made 1/58"4nto1
abd a 2.5' twin system
i can tell you this will give you a gain of 26klw at the rear wheels

Looking to upgrade the exhaust on my RR.
HAS a HSV 215 fitted (crate engine last of before LS1).

current exhaust = manifolds Cast.
engine pipes to 2 into 3 inch mandrel system.

engine pipes to 2 into 1 colector into full flow cat into staight through mufffler and out at rear.

would like a set of extractors OR.

Michael.

micheal they would hve to be custom made
i could do it for you if you wish
a set of try y extractors $850
or 4into 1 $$1100
this is done with mandrel bends
if you havfe a droning problim which you proberly have with 3" this will help get rid of some of it

ross

Exhaust dr
Are there any extractors that you would recomend off the shelf or are we better to build our own for my chevy

Note I already have the block huggers Cermaic Coated

legsx1 wrote:Exhaust dr
Are there any extractors that you would recomend off the shelf or are we better to build our own for my chevy

Note I already have the block huggers Cermaic Coated

unfortunatly there is no headers /extractors avialable for 4wd with conversions all good headers have to be made on the car
ross

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

V8Patrol wrote:Do you do custom extractors by any chance or can you supply a set of bends etc so that I can make my own?

I have a 340 hemi pumping out 700HP ( can supply dyno sheets if needed to better enhance power curve ) , the stractors are at the end of their life with a few minor pit holes appearing around mainly the second collectors.
The body type is a CL Charger by Chrysler, does not have power steering but does have a remote oil filter setup & there 's an auto in behind the motor.



Kingy

at a quick calculation in my head that is a 520klw engine a bit of a monster
i need to know if its for road use or track
you do know they are one of the hardest cars to build a good set of extractors on

Street and strip use.

It will run @ Calder on the odd occasion and will do daily driver duties occasionally too.


Yes I know how hard a good set of extractors is to get for em ..... you ought to try fitting em up


Kingy

V8Patrol wrote:

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

V8Patrol wrote:Do you do custom extractors by any chance or can you supply a set of bends etc so that I can make my own?

I have a 340 hemi pumping out 700HP ( can supply dyno sheets if needed to better enhance power curve ) , the stractors are at the end of their life with a few minor pit holes appearing around mainly the second collectors.
The body type is a CL Charger by Chrysler, does not have power steering but does have a remote oil filter setup & there 's an auto in behind the motor.



Kingy

at a quick calculation in my head that is a 520klw engine a bit of a monster
i need to know if its for road use or track
you do know they are one of the hardest cars to build a good set of extractors on

Street and strip use.

It will run @ Calder on the odd occasion and will do daily driver duties occasionally too.


Yes I know how hard a good set of extractors is to get for em ..... you ought to try fitting em up


Kingy

yes i can supply all the parts you need to make them proberly better if you gave me a ring

mr EXHAUSTFIX

do you know if 60 series landcruiser 2F petrol headers will fit on a 60 series cruiser with a 3F petrol?

many thanks!

timbocruise wrote:mr EXHAUSTFIX

do you know if 60 series landcruiser 2F petrol headers will fit on a 60 series cruiser with a 3F petrol?

many thanks!

I dont think so i have a feeling they are a different head plate pattern

hey doc ex
can u explane the pro and cons fo 2 into 1- 3 into 1 extrators vers 3 into 1- 2 into 1 headers mate have noticed 3 into 1-2 into 1 are usely tuned lengh

xenith wrote:hey doc ex
can u explane the pro and cons fo 2 into 1- 3 into 1 extrators vers 3 into 1- 2 into 1 headers mate have noticed 3 into 1-2 into 1 are usely tuned lengh

the two differences are 6into2 into 1 are 6 cyl interferance and 6 into 3 into 1 are competition
thats all one set flows about 10% better than the other

Exhaust Dr

Dont use block huggers they are not much better then manifolds
get a set made 1/58"4nto1
abd a 2.5' twin system
i can tell you this will give you a gain of 26klw at the rear wheels

1/ Can you explain why block huggers are not much better than manifolds
2/ I have a 2.5" system with one pipe now as I could not get a 2.5" pipe down the drivers side of my Nissan. Toooooo much in the way

Exhaustfix,

Is there any power gains to be made with a set of tube extractors going to a turbo compared to the stock manifold? Vehicle in question is a Landcruiser ute with a 1HDT 4.2L turbo diesel. The modified factory turbo will be running 12-15 psi into 3" pipes with no muffler. Thank you in advance.

Dave

legsx1 wrote:Exhaust Dr

Dont use block huggers they are not much better then manifolds
get a set made 1/58"4nto1
abd a 2.5' twin system
i can tell you this will give you a gain of 26klw at the rear wheels

1/ Can you explain why block huggers are not much better than manifolds
2/ I have a 2.5" system with one pipe now as I could not get a 2.5" pipe down the drivers side of my Nissan. Toooooo much in the way

block huggers are to short they were origanly made for conversions where you could not gat a rear outlet manifold in the car

beanz2 wrote:Exhaustfix,

Is there any power gains to be made with a set of tube extractors going to a turbo compared to the stock manifold? Vehicle in question is a Landcruiser ute with a 1HDT 4.2L turbo diesel. The modified factory turbo will be running 12-15 psi into 3" pipes with no muffler. Thank you in advance.

Dave

this type of manifold will give you a top end power increase but in some cases it can take a little fron your low rev range

EXHAUSTFIX wrote: yes I can supply all the parts you need to make them proberly better if you gave me a ring

Kewl

I could send down the old set if that helps ??????

They rest ( firmly ) on the starter motor, ( R & R of starter is ok tho )
They rub the floor ( pass sides ) so the floor has been peened to suit,
They ride the steering box firmly ( but not the steering ),
The engine has a remote oil filter setup and the braided lines come too close for comfort ( their actually wedged between the body / torsion bar / steering box and are slightly squished so that they are somewhat clear of the stractor pipe )
The bigger hammer has also peened the pipes in a few spots to gain better clearance ( tighter bends but with loss of gas flow ).

The main issue seems to be the secondary collector pipes, from the head into the four pipes is ok but from that collector ( 4 into two ) is where the contact happens. Removal of the auto is imposiable without dropping the stractors, and it takes an hour to remove the two remote oil filter lines !!!
I think it would almost be easier to come forward instead of back with the stractors and then turn em down either side of the water pump and then down around the "K frame" towards the rear....... posibilities ????


Kingy

Hey doc,i have a 3L V6 4runner,im after an exhaust upgrade to add a little more power.
Should i start with extractors, or (im told) cutting off the cross over pipe at the back off the engine,and joining the two after the gearbox will be just as effective...
What are your thoughts??
And what fuel savings could i expect from the system you reccomend???
Thanks alot you ledgend!!!

4RUNNINGL8 wrote:Hey doc,i have a 3L V6 4runner,im after an exhaust upgrade to add a little more power.
Should i start with extractors, or (im told) cutting off the cross over pipe at the back off the engine,and joining the two after the gearbox will be just as effective...
What are your thoughts??
And what fuel savings could i expect from the system you reccomend???
Thanks alot you ledgend!!!

IF YOU ARE JUST AFTER A LITTLE BIT MORE EXTEND ENGINE PIPES TO THE REAR OF THE GEAR BOXAND GET A 2.25" SYSTEM WITH 2 LARGE STRAIGHT THROUGH MUFFLERS THIS SHOULD GIVE YOU ABOUT 8-10% INCREASE THE FUEL SAVING ALL DEPENDS ON YOUR RIGHT FOOT

G'day Ross, I've got one for you that just came up tonight. A bit long winded and boring, but I'm in the dark and you never know.

I'm taking a 350 Chev out of a LWB MQ Patrol and putting it in my SWB MQ. Currently it has extractors on both sides that join to single pipes via a 3 bolt sandwich. The driver side pipe wraps close to sump and crosses over the other one before joining it ~400mm later into a single 3".

Tonight I was able to unbolt the passenger side, but couldn't get a spanner on one of the bolts in the drivers side. I've decided to cut the pipe as it goes under the sump. The pipe narrows a bit around the corner, which is handy because the front drive shaft runs near here. Right under the sump it then inserts inside the flared end of a skinnier pipe and is welded there. This is the area I'm thinking of cutting. I guess it doesn't really matter where exactly this cut is made - a sleeve can be put back in. Any comment worth making here?

Now, what would you recommend I do about the exhaust once it is in the shorty? Of course, I'll keep the extractors. At this stage I'm leaning towards keeping the rest too and just cutting the middle out of it, before the muffler, to suit the wheelbase.

I after a really nice note, but not too loud. I think twin 2.5" is too loud, but the single 3" was quite good in the longy.

Heathx4 wrote:G'day Ross, I've got one for you that just came up tonight. A bit long winded and boring, but I'm in the dark and you never know.

I'm taking a 350 Chev out of a LWB MQ Patrol and putting it in my SWB MQ. Currently it has extractors on both sides that join to single pipes via a 3 bolt sandwich. The driver side pipe wraps close to sump and crosses over the other one before joining it ~400mm later into a single 3".

Tonight I was able to unbolt the passenger side, but couldn't get a spanner on one of the bolts in the drivers side. I've decided to cut the pipe as it goes under the sump. The pipe narrows a bit around the corner, which is handy because the front drive shaft runs near here. Right under the sump it then inserts inside the flared end of a skinnier pipe and is welded there. This is the area I'm thinking of cutting. I guess it doesn't really matter where exactly this cut is made - a sleeve can be put back in. Any comment worth making here?

Now, what would you recommend I do about the exhaust once it is in the shorty? Of course, I'll keep the extractors. At this stage I'm leaning towards keeping the rest too and just cutting the middle out of it, before the muffler, to suit the wheelbase.

I after a really nice note, but not too loud. I think twin 2.5" is too loud, but the single 3" was quite good in the longy.

why dont you try and make your cut in the extractors where you can fit in another set of flange plates so you dont have the same trouble in the future
with the exhaust it is realy personal preference the 2.5"twin works better than the 3" single

any word on the Maxima ones?

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:why dont you try and make your cut in the extractors where you can fit in another set of flange plates so you dont have the same trouble in the future

Also something I considered. The main problem is that it is very hard to get a blade of any type to the extractors!

with the exhaust it is realy personal preference the 2.5"twin works better than the 3" single

Roger that, I'll have a think about it. Thanks for the comments!

Dr. Exhaust

Is there any surefire way to tell if you're cat converter is rooted Will it smell funny

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

4RUNNINGL8 wrote:Hey doc,i have a 3L V6 4runner,im after an exhaust upgrade to add a little more power.
Should i start with extractors, or (im told) cutting off the cross over pipe at the back off the engine,and joining the two after the gearbox will be just as effective...
What are your thoughts??
And what fuel savings could i expect from the system you reccomend???
Thanks alot you ledgend!!!

IF YOU ARE JUST AFTER A LITTLE BIT MORE EXTEND ENGINE PIPES TO THE REAR OF THE GEAR BOXAND GET A 2.25" SYSTEM WITH 2 LARGE STRAIGHT THROUGH MUFFLERS THIS SHOULD GIVE YOU ABOUT 8-10% INCREASE THE FUEL SAVING ALL DEPENDS ON YOUR RIGHT FOOT

Thank you very much!

-Mick- wrote:Dr. Exhaust

Is there any surefire way to tell if you're cat converter is rooted Will it smell funny

the only surefire way is to remove it from the car and look through it make sure there is no cracks or blockages
if you have a rotten egg smell
it can be caused by three things that i know of
1= cat converter to far from engine and not getting hot enough to work
2= the wrong or bad fuel
3= the oxygen censor not working

ross

if you need a new cat dont pay any more than $240 fitted

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

-Mick- wrote:Dr. Exhaust

Is there any surefire way to tell if you're cat converter is rooted Will it smell funny

the only surefire way is to remove it from the car and look through it make sure there is no cracks or blockages
if you have a rotten egg smell
it can be caused by three things that i know of
1= cat converter to far from engine and not getting hot enough to work
2= the wrong or bad fuel
3= the oxygen censor not working

ross

if you need a new cat dont pay any more than $240 fitted

legend thanks mate